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  #1  
Old 10-19-2007, 07:50 AM
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Endorsing Artist: Warwick Bass and Amp
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
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sanding flat a fretless neck

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I've just picked up a 2nd hand fretless and it has some string wear on the board. this is my first fretless, is it worth me sanding these out or should i just leave them?

will it make much difference either way?

If i was going to do it how would I be best to go about it?

thanks
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  #2  
Old 10-19-2007, 09:45 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: coastal N.C.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishbrain View Post
I've just picked up a 2nd hand fretless and it has some string wear on the board. this is my first fretless, is it worth me sanding these out or should i just leave them?

will it make much difference either way?

If i was going to do it how would I be best to go about it?

thanks
I would guess that well over 90% of average DIYers would be far less than satisfied with their results.

Accurately leveling the fingerboard is higher on the scale of difficulty than fret re leveling.

If you feel that you are in that 10% who are likely to be satisfied, you should go for it.

in worst case scenario, you may want to keep in mind that you can render the bass useless and, in the case of a less expensive bass, not economical to have a pro straighten out the mess, if you don't get it right the first try.
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  #3  
Old 10-19-2007, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkr2 View Post
Accurately leveling the fingerboard is higher on the scale of difficulty than fret re leveling.
Really? I'm not contesting that point - I've never leveled frets, but that statement comes as a surprise to me.

I defretted my own bass and took care of sanding the board and setting it up myself. My board is flat enough (16.5" radius) that I used a drywall sanding tool that provided just a bit of cushion under the paper. Guess I'm in the 10%.


To the OP -

My .02, wait until you have a problem then get it fixed by a luthier.

If you are inclined to DIY: Use a sanding block that matches the existing radius, take it slow, use fine grit paper, and sand the full length of the board with smooth strokes and even pressure. If it's a bolt-on I would take the neck off the body and remove the nut and tuners.*

There are plenty of people around here with various levels of experience who can offer advice... guess that's why we hang around.
  #4  
Old 10-19-2007, 08:19 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saxofunk View Post
Really? I'm not contesting that point - I've never leveled frets, but that statement comes as a surprise to me.

I defretted my own bass and took care of sanding the board and setting it up myself. My board is flat enough (16.5" radius) that I used a drywall sanding tool that provided just a bit of cushion under the paper. Guess I'm in the 10%.


To the OP -

My .02, wait until you have a problem then get it fixed by a luthier.

If you are inclined to DIY: Use a sanding block that matches the existing radius, take it slow, use fine grit paper, and sand the full length of the board with smooth strokes and even pressure. If it's a bolt-on I would take the neck off the body and remove the nut and tuners.*

There are plenty of people around here with various levels of experience who can offer advice... guess that's why we hang around.
"Guess I'm in the 10%."

Just the fact that you successfully defretted it and filled the fret slots probably easily puts you in the top ten %, even without leveling the board.

If you worked in a shop for a few months, you would realize that a simple routine setup is as foreign to most bassists as brain surgery is to a carpenter. Lots and lots of bassists carry their bass to a shop just for a string change.

The reason for the higher level of difficulty than fret work is because frets require adjusting the level of easy to file, narrow brass strips, while planing the FB requires removal of very hard wood over the entire fingerboard surface to the same high degree of accuracy.

Many DIYers will consider it good enough when it's planed close enough not to buzz too badly if the action is jacked up too high and fingerboard buzz is called "mwahh" instead of what it really is.
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  #5  
Old 10-19-2007, 10:52 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Austin
I saw a walk through somewhere. I think it was in bass player or another of the bass mags a few months back. I use rounds on my fretless basses and they have to be dressed at-least once a year depending on use. I have dressed my own fingerboards for years and am very pleased with the results (as a matter of fact I really wouldn't trust that to anyone else). I can understand how it could be daunting if you have never done it before. As far as it being easier to level frets maybe if you mean just making them level (not actually seating loose frets or dressing them). I would say the most important part of both jobs is having the right sanding block. I.e. a long flat sanding block. I have seen one on ebay from time to time. Search for a sanding beam. This is pretty close to what I use. I use a 15 inch for fingerboards and a 24 inch for leveling frets. They are pretty cheap from what I remember. Some use radius blocks. I have never had good results with them and I honestly think this is where most people go wrong. You are not trying to re-radius the board just level it. Look for that walk through it says the same thing and goes into more detail than I'm willing to right now and it has pictures
Good luck.
  #6  
Old 10-20-2007, 07:24 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkr2 View Post
"Guess I'm in the 10%."

Just the fact that you successfully defretted it and filled the fret slots probably easily puts you in the top ten %, even without leveling the board.

If you worked in a shop for a few months, you would realize that a simple routine setup is as foreign to most bassists as brain surgery is to a carpenter. Lots and lots of bassists carry their bass to a shop just for a string change.

The reason for the higher level of difficulty than fret work is because frets require adjusting the level of easy to file, narrow brass strips, while planing the FB requires removal of very hard wood over the entire fingerboard surface to the same high degree of accuracy.

Many DIYers will consider it good enough when it's planed close enough not to buzz too badly if the action is jacked up too high and fingerboard buzz is called "mwahh" instead of what it really is.
Normally one must stay up late and watch pay TV hear lines like these.

There is much wisdom contained herein. Good post.
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