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  #21  
Old 12-17-2012, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Johnson View Post
it most definitely can and is used to adjust action... because it does change the string height in relation to the fingerboard. And since everyone doesn't like the exact same relief, changing that relief while affecting string height can achieve the desired action.
But neck relief doesn't affect action height consistently across the length of the neck, yeah? AFAIK, the truss rod has most effect in the middle of the neck.

Hey, YMMV, but I set the neck relief so it's just enough I don't get buzzing from the maximum arc of the strings' vibration (like 5th through 10th fret) but there's minimal difference in feel from the nut to the end of the neck.
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  #22  
Old 12-17-2012, 08:53 AM
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I'll add this... Whenever you adjust the truss rod, its also a good idea to check/adjust your intonation as well.
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  #23  
Old 12-17-2012, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewo View Post
But neck relief doesn't affect action height consistently across the length of the neck, yeah? AFAIK, the truss rod has most effect in the middle of the neck.
Like I said, everyone doesn't like the same relief so it's not like action or height were uniform up and down the neck for everyone anyway. So relief will cause a curvature, none will leave the neck straight (if that's how the neck was built).

Quote:
Hey, YMMV, but I set the neck relief so it's just enough I don't get buzzing from the maximum arc of the strings' vibration (like 5th through 10th fret) but there's minimal difference in feel from the nut to the end of the neck.
I set most of my necks straight as possible without backbowing, adding just enough relief that I don't get buzzing at the first position. Been working great for decades and lots of folks who've played/owned basses I've set up this way dig it. How you play is a big factor in how well this works.
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Last edited by Brad Johnson : 12-18-2012 at 12:11 PM.
  #24  
Old 12-17-2012, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtnman View Post
I'll add this... Whenever you adjust the truss rod, its also a good idea to check/adjust your intonation as well.
If it's a big adjustment, sure. If not...





BTW I don't adjust my trussrods seasonally, I adjust them as needed. Low action and varying climates/environments can lead to that neccessity.
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Last edited by Brad Johnson : 12-17-2012 at 08:20 PM.
  #25  
Old 12-18-2012, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Johnson

Like I said, everyone doesn't like the same relief so it's not like action or height was uniform up and down the neck for everyone anyway. So relief with cause a curvature, none will leave the neck straight (if that's how the neck was built).

I set most of my necks straight as possible without backbowing, adding just enough relief that I don't get buzzing at the first position. Been working great for decades and lots of folks who've played/owned basses I've set up this way dig it. How you play is a big factor in how well this works.
+1. That's how Mr Sadowsky does it
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  #26  
Old 12-18-2012, 07:43 AM
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This has been a public service announcement.

Seriously, though - good post, and it's ridiculous how long it took me to figure out the same things. Once I get my bass set up, I find a tiny bit of truss rod tweaking a coupe of times a year is about all I ever need unless I put a different kind of string on.
  #27  
Old 12-18-2012, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kreider204 View Post
This has been a public service announcement.

Seriously, though - good post, and it's ridiculous how long it took me to figure out the same things. Once I get my bass set up, I find a tiny bit of truss rod tweaking a coupe of times a year is about all I ever need unless I put a different kind of string on.
And for some, like me, those little tweaks can make a big difference.

I let a friend of mine check out one of my recently acquired basses a couple of weeks ago. I hadn't used it in a month or so. While the bass sounded okay, I could tell he wasn't digging it. So I tried it and immediately felt that the neck wasn't where I normally prefer it as far as a relief (I wasn't digging it either ). A quick visual check confirmed it ( I sight the neck looking from the nut down towards the bridge). Took out my wrench, a small fraction of a turn later and it was dialed in. Again, I dialed it in straight until I got buzz and then dialed the other way just a touch. I handed it back to him and he was stunned at the difference. It just made the bass so much easier for him to play.

That's why I recommend that people learn how to do these relatively simple tweaks. It can make the difference between pretty good and WOW!
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  #28  
Old 12-18-2012, 01:46 PM
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I don't tweak necks unless I need to, and I seldom do. I use a humidifier during the winter but most of my basses haven't had a neck adjustment in years.
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  #29  
Old 12-18-2012, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Johnson View Post
I've heard people say this for decades and never agreed with the first part... because of what you said at the end of the same sentence.


it most definitely can and is used to adjust action... because it does change the string height in relation to the fingerboard. And since everyone doesn't like the exact same relief, changing that relief while affecting string height can achieve the desired action.

IME once I've adjusted the saddles I rarely need to touch them again. And if someone is playing my bass and needs the action higher I'll typically adjust the trussrod... it's quicker than adjusting 4-6 saddles and much quicker and easier to reverse.
For a bass that has been originally set up, it could very well be that changes in action height from a truss rod adjustment
will have a corresponding change in relief that works well with the new action height. They do tend to go together - higher
action, more relief.
It's very possible that if you use the truss rod to set action, you will get a perfectly adequate relief along with it. But that is
not always the case. What about someone setting up a bass initially? Or what if the relief is too small and the action is too
high? Use the truss rod to lower the action and you wind up back bowed.

I believe you understand the interactions between relief adjustments and action, and therefore can take advantage of them.
But someone new to all these adjusments, is probably better served by viewing the truss rod adjustment as a relief adjustment,
and action height as a separate adjustment made at the saddles (which they properly are).

My statement, It is not used to adjust action height, although an adjustment of the truss rod will affect action height
does almost sound like a condradition, in that I describe adjusting the truss rod to achieve a particular action.
However, this is a very specific case, where the neck has moved, changing both the action and the relief. In this case,
where only the neck has changed, only one thing needs to be adjusted, the truss rod. The action is a very accurate
indicator of the original setup. It would be much more difficult to try to restore the neck bow by measuring the relief.
This is in fact a relief adjustment. The action height is nothing but an indicator.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Johnson View Post
BTW I don't adjust my trussrods seasonally, I adjust them as needed. Low action and varying climates/environments can lead to that neccessity.
That's true, it should be as needed. You get some change from aging, also.

Last edited by megafiddle : 12-18-2012 at 09:42 PM.
  #30  
Old 12-18-2012, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by megafiddle View Post
For a bass that has been originally set up, it could very well be that changes in action height from a truss rod adjustment
will have a corresponding change in relief that works well with the new action height. They do tend to go together - higher
action, more relief.
It's very possible that if you use the truss rod to set action, you will get a perfectly adequate relief along with it. But that is
not always the case. What about someone setting up a bass initially? Or what if the relief is too small and the action is too
high? Use the truss rod to lower the action and you wind up back bowed.

I believe you understand the interactions between relief adjustments and action, and therefore can take advantage of them.
But someone new to all these adjusments, is probably better served by viewing the truss rod adjustment as a relief adjustment,
and action height as a separate adjustment made at the saddles (which they properly are).

My statement, It is not used to adjust action height, although an adjustment of the truss rod will affect action height
does almost sound like a condradition, in that I describe adjusting the truss rod to achieve a particular action.
However, this is a very specific case, where the neck has moved, changing both the action and the relief. In this case,
where only the neck has changed, only one thing needs to be adjusted, the truss rod. The action is a very accurate
indicator of the original setup. It would be much more difficult to try to restore the neck bow by measuring the relief.
This is in fact a relief adjustment. The action height is nothing but an indicator.
Like I said, we disagree. And now we disagree even more.


I've understood this argument over the years and it's akin to a semantics exercise. Your statement was a contradiction, not almost one. Not sure why you'd want or need to think that of the two things (trussrod and saddle height) only one should be looked at as affecting action when both clearly can and do.

The last statement, that action height is nothing but an indicator? Okay, if that terminology works for you, cool. I disagree with that too. No surprise I'd guess.

I don't look at saddle height as action BECAUSE it alone does not determine playability. Action IMO and IME is about playability. Relief is clearly a factor in that along with string height. You could have an otherwise workable string height on a backbowed neck and yet it might not be playable. I think anyone doing these adjustments would be well served to understand this. Then they too can take advantage of them.

I'm cool with anyone disagreeing with that that chooses to.


Quote:
That's true, it should be as needed. You get some change from aging, also.
Sometimes.
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Last edited by Brad Johnson : 12-18-2012 at 10:57 PM.
  #31  
Old 12-18-2012, 11:00 PM
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If you move instruments around often, like gigging, and playability is affected by even small moves, adjustments can be required more often.

I have fond memories of a guy who tried to convince people that trussrods were a design failure of wooden necks because composite necks on the basses he used at the time didn't have one. He had a Lord of the Rings type of mindset on this, that there should be one relief to bind them and refused to look at any adjustment as being a worthwhile thing.

He later bought a bunch of Fenders and Sadowskys. Baby steps.

You see all kinds on the interweb.
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Last edited by Brad Johnson : 12-18-2012 at 11:04 PM.
  #32  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Johnson View Post
Like I said, we disagree. And now we disagree even more.
Maybe not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Johnson View Post
I've understood this argument over the years and it's akin to a semantics exercise. Your statement was a contradiction, not almost one. Not sure why you'd want or need to think that of the two things (trussrod and saddle height) only one should be looked at as affecting action when both clearly can and do.
Some of it is semantics.
I used "action height" and "string height" (I use them interchangeably) for a reason. They are generally understood
to mean string height above a specific fret, e.g. the 17th for a Fender bass. I happen to agree with your use of the
term "action" to mean the entire relation between fretboard and strings. That is why I always referred to it as either
"action height" or "string height". I am speaking of something very specific, a single measurement, as described by
Fender, for example. Ok, I could have been clearer, but they are commonly understood, and it's never caused any
confusion before.

In light of my specific use of the terms, it might make more sense when I say that the truss rod is not used to set the
string height, as I am referring to the height at the 17th fret. It does affect it, but that is not it's purpose.
And again, I agree that the truss rod's purpose is to set the action (as you describe the term).
But who measures the string height at every fret to determine relief? Just as with "action height", there is a commonly
used method for judging relief, e.g. gap above 8th fret for a Fender bass, with string held down at 1st and last fret.
Generally, here on this forum and others, if you you say "action height" or "relief", they will be understood to mean as
described above, or you might be directed to a "sticky" or link that will provide that same information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Johnson View Post
The last statement, that action height is nothing but an indicator? Okay, if that terminology works for you, cool. I disagree with that too. No surprise I'd guess.
This is from the very first post:

"Once the bass has been set up, certain things are not normally going to change by themselves. The
saddles should not move, the angle of the neck where it is set into the body is not going to change,
the string tension is not going to change. But when the strings start buzzing with a change in humidity,
something certainly has changed. The neck has bowed back, reducing the relief and also the action
height. Since the only thing that has changed is the neck bow, adjusting the truss rod should be all
that is needed to restore the bass to exactly where it was."


I was very specific. The only purpose of the adjustment was in restoring a setup that was good at one
point. And I stand by my claim that using the original action height as an indicator of the original setup
will get you there. This has nothing to do with initial setups, or changes to a setup. Only restoring a setup
that has changed by neck movement. And also not from something like loose mounting, which is why
I said "seasonal".

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Johnson View Post
I don't look at saddle height as action BECAUSE it alone does not determine playability. Action IMO and IME is about playability. Relief is clearly a factor in that along with string height. You could have an otherwise workable string height on a backbowed neck and yet it might not be playable. I think anyone doing these adjustments would be well served to understand this. Then they too can take advantage of them.
I agree.
I think though that even those that are new to the whole thing, do have easy access to the information
and techniques for setting relief and saddle height. And they should get good results if they follow
some pretty standard procedures. But these procedures require that relief be set first. And the relief
is set with little regard to string height, as long as the height is within reasonable limits. Then you can
adjust the saddles, as this will have little effect on the relief. So in this sense they are independant
adjustments. Truss rod only sets the relief (string height is affected but disregarded) and saddle
height then sets the overall string height. That is the standard procedure for an initial setup.

(edited to add this)

If you wanted to say that the truss rod is used to adjust action, that would be a fair statement.
Maybe one could say that the procedural purpose of the truss rod is to only adjust relief.

And I think it's important for this reason:
Suppose someone here asks, "I just replaced the neck on my bass and the action's too high.
What do I do?"

I think you would agree that you don't tell them to tighten the truss rod until the strings are
low enough. Neither would you tell them to simply lower the saddles. The relief is unknown
and needs to be set first.

Now how do you do this? Typically, you place a straightedge along the frets and set a certain
gap at a particular fret. That straightedge is usually a tensioned string. You would need to have
an action height in mind in order to settle on a relief gap. Bt the action height is not involved in
the actual adjustment itself, in that it is not measured or observed.

So it is from a purely procedural standpoint that I would say that the truss rod is not used
to adjust action height. For most, who are interested in what to do and how to do it, this is
a useful way to look at it, I think.

Last edited by megafiddle : 12-20-2012 at 09:29 AM.
  #33  
Old 12-20-2012, 10:10 PM
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tl;dr

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