Set-up on no-brand bass possible nut shimming needed.

[TheSilverKnight]

K I have this Bass. My first bass in fact has no brand no idea where it cam from was an X-mas gift when I first said I wanted to play bass. Not the prettiest thing anymore.

Since I am finally getting the nerve to learn to do set up on my own. Have tried on this bass before and had nothing but failure.

I Think this however may not be my fault since I have so much more insight now.

Here is a little info this thing almost instantly takes a neck adjustment. I just tightened the rod a tad over a quarter turn and it is instantly in position with perfect relief(Yes I loosened the strings first).

Problem is now with perfect relief the strings are touching the the first fret. So needles to say opens are nothing but buzz.

So this is definitely a nut problem yes?

The nut was replaced about a yearish ago because the stock one broke when the bass fell over.

The 'new' one is an ivory nut i believe if looks like it is filed down very low.

So the nut probably needs to be shimmed or even replaced again.

If it can be fixed by shimming how would I do this I don't want to pay another 20 dollars to potentially have the same problem again.

Assuming this is something fairly simple what will I need?

[Solarmist]

It does sound like the nut.
Carvin > http://www.carvinguitars.com/products/group.php?cid=43
Allparts > http://www.allparts.com/store/nuts-saddles,category.asp

[TheSilverKnight]

Not sure after just looking at it and seeing that the neck is set right and how bad out of wack it is I amy just take it to the shop and pay the 60-100$ to get a full set up done God knows what else is wrong with this bass its like 5 years old and probably needs more work then I know. At least once it is done right once I should be able to do it from then on and not let it get out of hand again.

Playing it now tho next to the 5 string the sound on it is so bad makes me not even want to fix it. Think a full job on it will breath life into it?

[Zooberwerx]

I'm not sure what your "perfect relief" is. Does the nut pass the "ping" test (fret at 3rd, tap on 1st)? If you did get the relief correct, did you compensate with string height at the bridge?

Riis

[TheSilverKnight]

string height is really high and fretting at 3rd makes no difference with the relief set right the strings are ON the first fret. Playing an open gets me the first fret note.

IF it helps the bass looks like a fender in every way other than the fact that it isn't and has no markings. If I put the relief WAY high where it always is its playable to me because I have gotten used to it but can only play IT that way any other bass I can't play with the super high action and ridiculously high relief. Also has jumbo frets so that may be contributing to the problem. Which also may be why I can't play other basses with high action and relief and action cause they have normal frets.

My other Basses are an AXL Acoustic with literally a NO relief set neck and uber low string height and a short scale and my new ibanez which I am still setting up but had a low action before I started to tighten the neck cause it has WAY too much relief.

[mongo2]

If the relief is correct, I'd test the nut slot depth by putting a small piece of business card under the string in the slot of the E string so the edge or the card is flush with the fingerboard side edge of the nut. Try more than one layer of card if necessary. If that takes care of it then a higher nut is indicated.

I've shimmed a few in the past so they were a little high and then cut them back to where I want them but for years I've used either the superglue/baking soda fix on each nut slot or replaced the nut with with a new one.

I have a bass on my bench right now that needs to have it's slots deepened.

[Solarmist]

Originally Posted by mongo2

If the relief is correct, I'd test the nut slot depth by putting a small piece of business card under the string in the slot of the E string so the edge or the card is flush with the fingerboard side edge of the nut. Try more than one layer of card if necessary. If that takes care of it then a higher nut is indicated.

I've shimmed a few in the past so they were a little high and then cut them back to where I want them but for years I've used either the superglue/baking soda fix on each nut slot or replaced the nut with with a new one.

+1 - Try this, and see if it solves the problem - it's free.

[ashtray]

How are you measuring relief? Straight edge? holding the string down at the first and last fret and measuring height at the 8th fret?

Also - caution with that truss rod... 1/4 turn is a LOT of adjustment. I go in 1/8th turns, but usually the proper adjustment then is in 1/64ths (literally a nudge - then check, then nudge it back, check again, etc) once I get it close. Cranking it 1/4 turn in one shot is a bit adjustment on some necks. Could have a slight backbow causing the string to hit the 1st fret. Again, need to know how you are measuring the relief.

[Pilgrim]

Originally Posted by mongo2

If the relief is correct, I'd test the nut slot depth by putting a small piece of business card under the string in the slot of the E string so the edge or the card is flush with the fingerboard side edge of the nut. Try more than one layer of card if necessary.

...but for years I've used either the superglue/baking soda fix on each nut slot or replaced the nut with with a new one.

I agree with both. A biz card under the string at the nut can tell you a lot quickly, and it's free. If you need to raise the strings, then the baking side/superglue fix is a great idea. Just remember to put tape on both side of the nut before doing the fix so you won't get it on the finish or the fretboard.

I'm also betting that you will need a shim under the neck (on the body end of the cavity) to bring the strings down closer to the fretboard.