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10-03-2011, 06:25 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: northeast Ohio | | | setting up your own bass- Ibanez soundgear.
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Maybe this has been done to death on here already, but I'll ask anyways. I have an Ibanez SR405 active 5 string bass with a bolt on neck. I've always paid the $25 to have it set up. It's been a few years since i've had it done, and when I had it done it was tuned to D standard (with a low A). Now i'm tuned to E standard (with a low B) and while it plays ok, I do have a little bit of buzz and the strings feel like they sit higher. I'm going to be replacing the strings and recording an album in the next couple of months, so I feel like I should have it set up. Problem is, I'm a college student and really need to put the $25 into my gas tank instead of a bass setup.
I'm proficient with tools, I repair/build pedals and amps, not to mention motorcycles and cars. Is this something I can do properly the first time after watching some tutorials on YouTube or does it take some practice to do it "just right"? I don't want to screw it up. If it's tricky i'd rather just pay someone to do it right.
Thanks in advance.
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10-04-2011, 02:01 AM
| | | | Theres various ones out there. My basic method is: Sight down neck from body end. If the neck isnt near dead straight I'll adjust truss rod so it is. Of course slight bow, but just very slight. Hard to even see. Then adjust each strings bridge saddle for lowest action without strings fretting out. I like the sound tweak of musical fret buzz. This buzz allways sounds like its lots more acoustically then it does thru speakers btw. Then check intonation adjustment if needed.
Then I adjust pups for best sound thru them both individually and mixed together evenly. Usually tweaking either neck or bridge pup just a little for best sound variation with neck pup rolled off just a little bit.
Sometimes one or two strings will get slight bridge saddle adjustment a day or two later for little bit better string to string arc or lack of. Or for little adjustment to amount of fret buzz. If two end strings the pups might get slightly tweaked on that side for return to sound setting that had before.
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Last edited by darkstorm : 10-04-2011 at 02:03 AM.
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10-04-2011, 03:00 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2011 Location: Japan | | | I'd suggest giving it a shot yourself. Worst-case scenario: you don't do a very good job, and you end up paying somebody the $25 after all. If you're mechanically-inclined, there's no reason not to try your hand at it. You do get better at it as you gain experience, but unless you're in a hurry, go for it. | 
10-04-2011, 06:54 AM
| | | | Purchase: Guitar Player Repair Guide by Dan Erlewine. Read, digest, and repair. There is a life time of learning here.
Free: Read the sticky entitled "ALL BASIC SETUP QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE" at the top of this page.
Free: Pose specific questions here. Help is always given to those who ask.
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10-04-2011, 09:30 AM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Metro Boston MA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by runmikeyrun Maybe this has been done to death on here already, but I'll ask anyways. I have an Ibanez SR405 active 5 string bass with a bolt on neck. I've always paid the $25 to have it set up. It's been a few years since i've had it done, and when I had it done it was tuned to D standard (with a low A). Now i'm tuned to E standard (with a low B) and while it plays ok, I do have a little bit of buzz and the strings feel like they sit higher. I'm going to be replacing the strings and recording an album in the next couple of months, so I feel like I should have it set up. Problem is, I'm a college student and really need to put the $25 into my gas tank instead of a bass setup.
I'm proficient with tools, I repair/build pedals and amps, not to mention motorcycles and cars. Is this something I can do properly the first time after watching some tutorials on YouTube or does it take some practice to do it "just right"? I don't want to screw it up. If it's tricky i'd rather just pay someone to do it right.
Thanks in advance. | Go for it; ALL BASIC SETUP QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE - TalkBass Forums Setup - TalkBass Wiki Setup Instruction Manual http://www.fender.com/support/bass_g...etup_guide.php
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10-04-2011, 09:42 AM
|  | Groovin' and Grinnin' | | Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Greenup, KY | | I like the Jerzy Drozd pdf book you can get for free. It's a very good rundown of proper setup techniques complete with detailed illustrations and explanations, and even has templates for radius gauges so you can make some yourself. It's the best free setup resource out there imo. I sent mikey a copy of it yesterday, but I'll post the link below in case anyone else wants to get a copy. Enjoy. http://www.jerzydrozdbasses.com/akcn...ide_ver100.pdf
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10-04-2011, 09:44 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Montclair, NJ | | | Yeah, its easy. do it.
Few points to note. You may need to do the relief setup once or twice...as the neck sometimes 'settles' after a bigger adjustment.
Note that the truss rod only affects the neck RELIEF...meaning the bow in the neck itself. If you have buzzing problems above the 12th fret...thats a bridge saddle issue, or time to shim the neck (not in your case probably).
Since you changed tunings also...you may need to adjust the intonation...but again, if you have a tuner...this is really easy. You cant screw something up permanently with this. if you go too flat or too sharp...just turn back! | 
10-04-2011, 09:50 PM
|  | Hammer On! | | Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Babbling Brook | | | Hang on, hang on, togglehead speaks volumes.
Seach google for step-by-step how to's for performing an action adjustment.
Whatever you do...
1. Try not to adjust the truss more than about 1/4 turn per session (that's 90 degrees from where you started moving it-as compared with 360 degrees being a full turn or circle).
2. Try to avoid following the advice of people that don't provide a list of steps to follow, or a paragraph that includes complete steps.
3. If you have a bass with a neck tilt adjustment near the body, don't move it until you understand/learn how it works in conjunction with saddle height adjustments.
4. Use the right tools to make adjustments, not some other tool that you may have handy.
Keep your tools and notes in a handy place for next time.
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