Shim My '78 Jazz Bass

jeff5311 · #1 01-02-2012, 08:12 PM

Help! I have acquired a '78 Fender Jazz that, after some TLC sounds great.

However, in an attempt to get the action lower, I've bottomed out the bridge saddles (E and G strings) and maxed out the micro-tilt.

Would it make sense to shim the neck instead of using the micro-tilt?

Or it there some way to shim the micro-tilt plate itself to get the neck to rock back further?

Thanks in advance!!!

narud · #2 01-02-2012, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeff5311

Help! I have acquired a '78 Fender Jazz that, after some TLC sounds great.

However, in an attempt to get the action lower, I've bottomed out the bridge saddles (E and G strings) and maxed out the micro-tilt.

Would it make sense to shim the neck instead of using the micro-tilt?

Or it there some way to shim the micro-tilt plate itself to get the neck to rock back further?

Thanks in advance!!!

do you have a badass bridge or something on there?

jeff5311 · #3 01-02-2012, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by narud

do you have a badass bridge or something on there?

Nope. Just the standard, original bridge saddles. It also looks like the neck pickup is sitting too low in the body cavity. Like maybe the neck was routed too deep?

Any advice? I've never had a bass with the micro-tilt thing before.

narud · #4 01-02-2012, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeff5311

Nope. Just the standard, original bridge saddles. It also looks like the neck pickup is sitting too low in the body cavity. Like maybe the neck was routed too deep?

Any advice? I've never had a bass with the micro-tilt thing before.

crazy. i cant imagine the neck pocket being routed that deep that your maxing out the microtilt and still bottomed out. id say just shim it and see if it gets where you want it. when i had a badass on my 78 i used the micotilt and thats all i needed. i eventually took it off though. ive got a badass on my 74 and have a good amount of shim in there to get the action low.

**Lazarus.Bird** · #5 01-02-2012, 08:36 PM

Never had to shim a bass that had micro-tilt, but if you have the micro-tilt maxed out and the saddles are still bottoming out I would just set the micro-tilt to zero and shim the neck. Micro-tilt is nice when it works but yours isn't so you might as well just shim. Sounds like you know what you are doing so I don't think it will be a problem!

testing1two · #6 01-02-2012, 08:47 PM

Just to verify the obvious: are you loosening the neck screws before adjusting the micro tilt?

Normally, the micro tilt has more than enough adjustment...a lot more. If it doesn't I would recommend shimming the entire neck pocket with a piece of metal shim stock (probably .040 or .050 thick). That should get you in the ballpark and then you can adjust the micro tilt until it's exactly where you want it.

jeff5311 · #7 01-02-2012, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lazarus.Bird

Never had to shim a bass that had micro-tilt, but if you have the micro-tilt maxed out and the saddles are still bottoming out I would just set the micro-tilt to zero and shim the neck. Micro-tilt is nice when it works but yours isn't so you might as well just shim. Sounds like you know what you are doing so I don't think it will be a problem!

Ha! I don't really know what I'm doing... I've never shimmed a neck before.

Do you guys just use the standard business card? I can't imagine the business card being thick enough, but I guess a few millimeters goes a long way?

jeff5311 · #8 01-02-2012, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by testing1two

Just to verify the obvious: are you loosening the neck screws before adjusting the micro tilt?

Normally, the micro tilt has more than enough adjustment...a lot more. If it doesn't I would recommend shimming the entire neck pocket with a piece of metal shim stock (probably .040 or .050 thick). That should get you in the ballpark and then you can adjust the micro tilt until it's exactly where you want it.

Yep. I'm loosening the neck screws when I'm adjusting the micro-tilt. I was hoping I could just keep turning the micro-tilt, but it stops. Maybe there's something wrong with the micro-tilt???

I was hoping for the easy fix. Oh well... time to take the neck off and inspect the micro-tilt and maybe try my hand at shimming.

king_biscuit · #9 01-02-2012, 08:56 PM

Can you post a few pics of the neck pocket/profile?

ubnomnar · #10 01-02-2012, 09:25 PM

Excessive neck relief (forward bow) can also play a role in the inability to get low action.

If both the bridge saddles and the micro-tilt (adjustable shim) are at their limits... it seems that something "additional" may also be out of whack.

Have you verified that your neck relief is "in the ballpark?"

jeff5311 · #11 01-02-2012, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ubnomnar

Excessive neck relief (forward bow) can also play a role in the inability to get low action.

If both the bridge saddles and the micro-tilt (adjustable shim) are at their limits... it seems that something "additional" may also be out of whack.

Have you verified that your neck relief is "in the ballpark?"

Yeah. Neck relief is fine... just where I like it. Fretting at the first and last fret on the E string, and I can see a little bit of "air" at the fifth fret. It's not completely flat, but I was a surprised I could take this "vintage" neck this flat without buzz. But of course, it could be due to the the neck pocket being too low.

Oh I forgot to mention, I DID swap out the original bridge saddles, with Fender threaded saddles. This was mainly to maintain better string spacing. However these saddles seem to be roughly the same height as the originals. The original saddles I had awefully low as well.

I'll see if can post pics.

Is the micro-tilt suppose to allow for a lot of tilting of the neck? It seems I can only go 3 full turns either way...

Thanks again for all your help guys!!!

ubnomnar · #12 01-06-2012, 03:52 PM

Have you been able to get the action set to where you like it?

walterw · #13 01-06-2012, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeff5311

Is the micro-tilt suppose to allow for a lot of tilting of the neck? It seems I can only go 3 full turns either way...

yeah, something's weird here.

loosening, the micro-tilt should keep going until it's no longer pressing on the neck at all, and will turn freely even with the neck tightly bolted down to the body.

tightening, you should be able to get the strings lying dead on the frets well before the screw runs out of thread and falls out of the metal piece holding it.

merkaba22 · #14 01-08-2012, 03:10 AM

I want to see pictures too.

Sonicone · #15 02-07-2012, 08:43 AM

Losen strings, take off neck, take 1/4 of a business card and place it between the two screw holes closest to the body. put the neck back on and tune guitar. From here you may have to adjust the saddle height to prevent buzz. If the thinkness of one business card wasnt enough just take 1/2 a card fold it in half and do the same thing. It worked wonders for my brand new jazz bass

I was spoiled with the awesome low and smooth action of an Ibanez for years but love the tone of jazz basses. The brand new Jazz bass I have sounds sweet but it was labor to play it. The business card trick really works and is easy to do

Still doesnt play like an Ibanez but it's MUCH better and the tone makes it worth the change.

JLS · #16 02-07-2012, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeff5311

Help! I have acquired a '78 Fender Jazz that, after some TLC sounds great.

However, in an attempt to get the action lower, I've bottomed out the bridge saddles (E and G strings) and maxed out the micro-tilt.

Would it make sense to shim the neck instead of using the micro-tilt?

Or it there some way to shim the micro-tilt plate itself to get the neck to rock back further?

Thanks in advance!!!

The microtilt's an allen screw, so it shouldn't stop in either direction, unless it's butted up against the plate in the heel of the neck, and the neck screws are tight. I'd suggest taking the neck off, and having a looksee at that allen screw.