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  #1  
Old 02-20-2011, 12:01 AM
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Should i shim my bass neck??

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ive set the bridge as low as it can go and also truss rod adjusted correctly? would shimming it help?
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Old 02-20-2011, 12:06 AM
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wat? are you trying to achieve low action?
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  #3  
Old 03-12-2011, 07:13 AM
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I have the same problem bridge is bottomed out and neck is straight. The action is still not low enough. I wonder if a shim would help?
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:18 AM
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should be moved to setup and repair, but if you are sure that the neck is straight, the frets are level and you still cannot lower the saddles enough, then a shim would compensate for that. Most of the time though, on mass production instruments, fret level is not perfect, and if you have a high fret between the 15-20th fret, the shim will make the bass buzz horribly, and you will have to raise the action, getting you to the same place you were before shimming. Also if your neck is Fender style and ski-jumping same problem.
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AHDBassist View Post
I have the same problem bridge is bottomed out and neck is straight. The action is still not low enough. I wonder if a shim would help?
If your bass is set-up correctly (including witness points!) and the action is still too high, a shim at the butt end of the neck pocket may help.

Once you have set your optimal relief via truss rod, do not adjust it to compensate for bridge limitations.

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  #6  
Old 03-12-2011, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyl
should be moved to setup and repair, but if you are sure that the neck is straight, the frets are level and you still cannot lower the saddles enough, then a shim would compensate for that. Most of the time though, on mass production instruments, fret level is not perfect, and if you have a high fret between the 15-20th fret, the shim will make the bass buzz horribly, and you will have to raise the action, getting you to the same place you were before shimming. Also if your neck is Fender style and ski-jumping same problem.
I agree, but I am not op so I cannot move it. It is a Fender Jazz Bass someone has defretted. Since there are no frets now the action needs to be lowered further but the bridge is already bottomed out.
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:51 AM
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I just had the exact same issue with my new bass and a shim fixed it completely!

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Old 03-12-2011, 07:56 AM
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Also don't forget the nut might be a tad to high.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:12 AM
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I just had the exact same issue with my new bass and a shim fixed it completely!

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Excellent advice! Where did you position the shim in the neck pocket?
  #10  
Old 03-12-2011, 08:17 AM
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Excellent advice! Where did you position the shim in the neck pocket?

Any thing will work really. A business card works fine, I've had stock fenders that they used a piece of sand paper.
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  #11  
Old 03-12-2011, 08:20 AM
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I have a few basses that had to be shimmed.

You have 3 choices.

1 - shim it flat. this takes the whole neck up a fraction of an inch.
2 - shim it with the head tilted down.
3 - shim it with the head tilted up.

For your situation try 1 or 2.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AHDBassist View Post
Excellent advice! Where did you position the shim in the neck pocket?
You have a choice: either a full pocket shim (overkill) or a partial shim placed in the butt-end (end of neck) of the pocket. I use beer can aluminum or metal flashing (swiped from the wife's art studio).

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  #13  
Old 03-12-2011, 08:34 AM
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It's not that big of a deal IMO, a lot of basses need it.

What I did with mine was took the two jokers out of a new deck of cards, cut them in half, and shimmed the butt end of the neck pocket with them.
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  #14  
Old 03-12-2011, 08:41 AM
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My $ 0.02: the back of the neck should make perfect contact with the bottom of the neck pocket to guarantee good tone and sustain. A shim may help (sandpaper
as mentioned by Hopkins is a good choice), but filing the neck pocket bottom may be necessary if it doesn't. The bottom of the neck pocket shouldn't show even the slightest rim.
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  #15  
Old 03-12-2011, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopkins

Any thing will work really. A business card works fine, I've had stock fenders that they used a piece of sand paper.
Just put it in the center of the screws?
  #16  
Old 03-12-2011, 08:54 AM
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should be moved to setup and repair
Better late than never. Moved.
  #17  
Old 03-12-2011, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by AHDBassist View Post
Excellent advice! Where did you position the shim in the neck pocket?
The small 1" x 1/4" x 1/32" cardboard shim was placed in the far butt end of the neck pocket, which raised and angled the neck enough to correct the issue (and remains un-detectable.)
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  #18  
Old 03-12-2011, 09:20 AM
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No - NOT in the center of the screws. Between the last screws and the end of the pocket so the neck is tilted back. Putting it in the center will not help.

I have done this several times with one or 2 layers of business card cut to fit the curve of the pocket, and it works VERY well. Super low action without bottoming the bridge. I have also had a couple of basses where this was done at the factory with a piece of thin plastic.
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  #19  
Old 03-12-2011, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AHDBassist View Post
I have the same problem bridge is bottomed out and neck is straight. The action is still not low enough. I wonder if a shim would help?
The neck should never be perfectly straight (most people think it should be), it should have a very slight inner bow. That alone might help w/ string buzz. Shims can help but I would exhaust other ideas b4 shimming
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  #20  
Old 03-12-2011, 09:23 AM
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RE:My $ 0.02: "filing the neck pocket bottom"

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Originally Posted by Chris K View Post
My $ 0.02: the back of the neck should make perfect contact with the bottom of the neck pocket to guarantee good tone and sustain. A shim may help (sandpaper
as mentioned by Hopkins is a good choice), but filing the neck pocket bottom may be necessary if it doesn't. The bottom of the neck pocket shouldn't show even the slightest rim.
"Filing" the neck pocket?

I don't think so...
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