a simple set up question

[jc93230]

Picked up a P Bass Lyte from a pawn shop. Got it cleaned up, electronics working, ready to string and set up. I do my own guitar work, but this is my first Bass. Using Fender specs, I capo at the first fret and then measure at the 8th "while depressing the string at the last fret".

Does this make a difference if you have 22 versus 20 frets?

Would you use the 20th or the 22nd?

I didnt find anything specific on this with search.

Lots of questions to come as I am completely new to Bass

[JLS]

Originally Posted by jc93230

Picked up a P Bass Lyte from a pawn shop. Got it cleaned up, electronics working, ready to string and set up. I do my own guitar work, but this is my first Bass. Using Fender specs, I capo at the first fret and then measure at the 8th "while depressing the string at the last fret".

Does this make a difference if you have 22 versus 20 frets?

Would you use the 20th or the 22nd?

I didnt find anything specific on this with search.

Lots of questions to come as I am completely new to Bass

I check at F1-F15. The frets after the neck is joined to the body aren't affected by the trussrod.

[randysmojo]

What ever the last fret is should be fine. If you have a 24 fret bass, I usually depress at the 24th and check at the 8th and 9th frets to get an idea. To me, there are no magic numbers that just work on everything. The measurements Fender shows are suggestions to get close and from there, you should adjust to your own style of playing and preferences. If you have a light touch, you can get by with a little less relief, and versa visa.... Same thing as far as setting the string height at the bridge, and cutting the nut slots. You can go lower on both ends with a light touch, but if you ever want to dig in more, you won't want it too low. Especially at the nut because you can't adjust that back up if need be! Well, not easily and quickly anyway!

[jc93230]

Thanks for the replies. I have it back together and tuned to get some tension on the neck. Now just waiting for some time in the man cave (70 deg, 50% RH) to work its magic. I will probably try to get it set up this coming weekend. It has been sitting in a pawn shop long enough to be pretty dried out, so the time will hopefully keep me from chasing the relief and action all over the place. Also waiting to see how much of a small crack at the g tuner closes on its own before gluing and clamping. Here it is cleaned up from a pretty nasty state when I got it.





The crack doesn't run all the way through to the face.

Then I have to learn to play it!

[jc93230]

Originally Posted by jc93230

Thanks for the replies. I have it back together and tuned to get some tension on the neck. Now just waiting for some time in the man cave (70 deg, 50% RH) to work its magic. I will probably try to get it set up this coming weekend. It has been sitting in a pawn shop long enough to be pretty dried out, so the time will hopefully keep me from chasing the relief and action all over the place. Also waiting to see how much of a small crack at the g tuner closes on its own before gluing and clamping. Here it is cleaned up from a pretty nasty state when I got it.

The crack doesn't run all the way through to the face.

Then I have to learn to play it!

Oops. Crack is at the E/4th string tuner

[lowendfriend]

You really should not wind full thickness string around the tuning posts....looks like you are using XL set of strings on a standard bass. If it is working for you fine, but that can often lead to having a rough time getting proper intonation on the strings.

[jc93230]

Originally Posted by lowendfriend

You really should not wind full thickness string around the tuning posts....looks like you are using XL set of strings on a standard bass. If it is working for you fine, but that can often lead to having a rough time getting proper intonation on the strings.

See, learning all the time! I did notice the length seemed long compared to the headstock photos I have seen ( where the windings stop) could that be because the p bass lyte is a top loader and doesn't have the additional length of a string through? I will have to find my receipt/ or box and see if they are extra long. Thanks for the tip!

[jc93230]

Dunlop nickel plated mediums. 45-105s. Do they run long or is my bass a shorter scale? 34"

[lowendfriend]

You've got a lot of string winding for a standard length set. I cut mine to get 3 wraps only to avoid the full thickness winding. 34" is standard pretty much.

For example, on my Warwick 34' scale, the Daddario Chrome XL's (ECB81-5) just cross the nut with full thickness string. Sorry for close focus phone picture.

Perhaps roundwounds are set up for winding full width string stock?

Another thing you want to do is have the string wind from the the top of the post toward the bottom on the post, so that the string leaves the post for the nut at the bottom of the windings.

[jc93230]

I definitely left too much string on the 4th. I didn't have any choice on the wound portion wrapping the post though. I can see where having just the unwound portions wrap would be more stable. Maybe a different brand of string next time.