Slotted nut truss rod adjustment tips

Slowgypsy · #1 01-12-2009, 06:34 AM

I have a '62 RI Jazz, with a slotted nut at the heel for truss rod adjustments. The only way I've been able to make my seasonal adjustments is by taking the neck off.

Anyone have any cool tips for doing this without taking the neck off?

202dy · #2 01-12-2009, 06:43 AM

Complete neck removal is unnecessary. Partial removal is better.

1. Loosen strings. They do not have to be taken off the pegs.
2. Loosen neck bolts enough to tilt the neck out of the pocket just enough to gain access to the nut.
3. Adjust the truss rod.
4. Reverse the process.
5. Check set up.

Lather rinse repeat.

Like all truss rod adjustments, it may take a few attempts to obtain optimal results.

lowdowndad · #3 01-12-2009, 08:04 AM

Use a long, thin-bladed slotted screwdriver.

Fully engage only half of the slot and be careful not to strip it.

Both of my P-basses, '70 & '07 have a small scallop cut into the pickgaurd for this.

Hope this helps,

lowdowndad

Zooberwerx · #4 01-12-2009, 10:23 AM

Full or partial removal is bad, 'm 'kay? If there's no access rout below the pickguard, have a tech grind one out. Or you can do it yourself with a Dremel tool if you have a steady hand. The mod doesn't have to perfect as it will be hidden by the pickguard...if there is a pickguard!

Riis

202dy · #5 01-12-2009, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zooberwerx

Full or partial removal is bad, 'm 'kay? If there's no access rout below the pickguard, have a tech grind one out. Or you can do it yourself with a Dremel tool if you have a steady hand. The mod doesn't have to perfect as it will be hidden by the pickguard...if there is a pickguard!

Riis

If someone owns an inexpensive vintage copy, routing the access is probably a good idea. Fender RI models could very well gain in value over the years. No one knows for sure but it is always wise to err on the side of caution. However, even the most inexperienced owner of a vintage bass guitar would be upset with the idea of routing an access hole for the truss rod. If you are a pro it will net you a lawsuit in short order.

Why do you say that partial or full neck removal is "bad".

Slowgypsy · #6 01-12-2009, 10:53 AM

All good suggestions.

I'd rather not start carving up this bass, so I think I'll pass on the adding an access rout.

I tried the long thin slotted screwdriver, but for whatever reason I'm not actually getting enough purchase on the nut, and don't want to tear it up.

The partial removal is working, although I've added to it. I ended up putting a capo on the 5th fret to help keep the strings the tuning posts. So far the partial removal with a capo is working.

I'm curious... why is full or partial neck removal a bad thing to do?

Zooberwerx · #7 01-12-2009, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 202dy

If someone owns an inexpensive vintage copy, routing the access is probably a good idea.
Why do you say that partial or full neck removal is "bad".

I can't attest to the value of re-issue instruments vs. vintage instruments so I won't touch that one. Will the modification drive down the value of a RI? I don't have a clue but I would certainly encourage any owner, regardless of experience, to do some research and discuss the feasibility with their tech.

Here's why I think its "bad" or, at the least, inefficient:

Proper truss rod adjustment can become a trial 'n error crapshoot. Remove / relax the strings, loosen / remove the neck mount screws, tighten / loosen the truss rod, replace / tighten the neck screws, tune to pitch and **whew!** check relief. Still not right? Repeat the above. I'd be concerned about stripping a screw with repeated manipulation (hey, it happens....look at all the "stripped screw" threads floating around). Brass inserts would offer some protection but wouldn't that make an re-issue less than 100% authentic?

Riis

PilbaraBass · #8 01-12-2009, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zooberwerx

Full or partial removal is bad, 'm 'kay? If there's no access rout below the pickguard, have a tech grind one out. Or you can do it yourself with a Dremel tool if you have a steady hand. The mod doesn't have to perfect as it will be hidden by the pickguard...if there is a pickguard!

Riis

removal of neck is not bad...provided that you don't overtighten neck screws...

I've had the neck off my P-bass DOZENS of times...no problems at all...

proper adjustment is not a "crap shoot"...once the neck is setup, it's usually just a tweak one way or the other...I've had to get mine loose more than 2-3 times...and it's not an issue

sure a headstock adjustment is far superior...but a good neck should only require an adjustment twice a year max...not a big deal, IMO

thobbinghotrod · #9 01-12-2009, 11:49 AM

It takes a while for an adjustment to settle. Wouldn't letting all the tension off and then re-stringing take even longer for the neck to settle?

Zooberwerx · #10 01-12-2009, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thobbinghotrod

It takes a while for an adjustment to settle. Wouldn't letting all the tension off and then re-stringing take even longer for the neck to settle?

It does for me. I remove all the strings simultaneously only when absolutely necessary (e.g. fret work). I've even found a way to oil the fingerboard with the strings at pitch and without making a major mess.

Riis

Zooberwerx · #11 01-12-2009, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PilbaraBass

proper adjustment is not a "crap shoot"...once the neck is setup, it's usually just a tweak one way or the other...I've had to get mine loose more than 2-3 times...and it's not an issue

sure a headstock adjustment is far superior...but a good neck should only require an adjustment twice a year max...not a big deal, IMO

Fair enough. So as to optimize adjustment, what have you found to be the nominal "tweak"...1/8th, 16th, etc. of a turn? I would gather that the OP would like to get it right the first go-round without the need for repeated removal. Reason I ask is that none of my truss rods (9 different instruments / manufacturers) respond in similar fashion. I suspect that Fender RI's would demonstrate more consistency instrument-to-instrument.

Riis

202dy · #12 01-12-2009, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zooberwerx

I can't attest to the value of re-issue instruments vs. vintage instruments so I won't touch that one. Will the modification drive down the value of a RI? I don't have a clue but I would certainly encourage any owner, regardless of experience, to do some research and discuss the feasibility with their tech.

Here's why I think its "bad" or, at the least, inefficient:

Proper truss rod adjustment can become a trial 'n error crapshoot. Remove / relax the strings, loosen / remove the neck mount screws, tighten / loosen the truss rod, replace / tighten the neck screws, tune to pitch and **whew!** check relief. Still not right? Repeat the above. I'd be concerned about stripping a screw with repeated manipulation (hey, it happens....look at all the "stripped screw" threads floating around). Brass inserts would offer some protection but wouldn't that make an re-issue less than 100% authentic?

Riis

When you said bad you meant inefficient? That we can agree on.

No one said that luthiery was easy. It is sometimes frustrating dealing with inanimate objects. Adjusting original Fender design truss rods is one of those times. Like any other craft, the easy ones make up for the hard ones.

Stripping the threads out of the neck is a risk, albeit a small one, given that the person doing the adjustments has a reasonable amount of experience with metal screws and wood. If they do not, they should take their guitar to a tech. Unfortunately, those folks rarely know who they are.

Brass inserts are wonderful. You are correct in assuming their use would kill the value of a vintage instrument.

202dy · #13 01-12-2009, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thobbinghotrod

It takes a while for an adjustment to settle. Wouldn't letting all the tension off and then re-stringing take even longer for the neck to settle?

Sometimes it takes a while for an adjustment to settle. More often than not, the effect of the adjustment is immediate. If you are tilting the neck out of the pocket to adjust there is no reason to remove the strings. You make the adjustment, tighten the bolts, and tune to pitch. If the adjustment is correct it is time to finish the set up. If it isn't the procedure is repeated. Letting off on the tension to do make a truss rod adjustment will not hinder the amount of time it takes for the neck to react.

PilbaraBass · #14 01-13-2009, 02:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zooberwerx

Fair enough. So as to optimize adjustment, what have you found to be the nominal "tweak"...1/8th, 16th, etc. of a turn? I would gather that the OP would like to get it right the first go-round without the need for repeated removal. Reason I ask is that none of my truss rods (9 different instruments / manufacturers) respond in similar fashion. I suspect that Fender RI's would demonstrate more consistency instrument-to-instrument.

Riis

"nominal tweak" depends on the bass...you find that as you get to "know" it...but generally, it's around 1/8 a turn...

my carvin AC40 I tweak while it's tuned up (yes, it's that easy)...my Squier 5 needs the middle string loosened...my P-bass needs all four strings slackened and the neck screws backed out...

carvin takes 15 seconds to tweak...squier takes about 1-1.5 minutes...and the P-bass takes ~5 minutes...this includes returning everything to normal.

with the P-bass I usually set up my relief during a string change (I use the same type of strings consistantly)...at this point the fretboard is cleaned and the frets polished...all in the name of a good "setup"