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  #1  
Old 11-15-2011, 09:37 PM
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soldering help...

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so i'm trying to change the pickups on my bass. while i'm trying to unsolder some of the wire from the existing setup, it seems when i put my soldering iron on it to melt off the solder, it won't melt off....is there something wrong with my iron? or is the solder heat resistant? i'm not really sure...

i thank you in advance in helping me with my question!
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  #2  
Old 11-15-2011, 10:05 PM
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The temperature needs to be high enough. Around 750° to 800° F is normally adequate. The tip of the iron needs to be clean and shiny. A wider, chisel tip is more effective for desoldering than a narrow, pointy one. And though it is counterintuitive, it is helpful to have a little blob of fresh molten solder on the end of the tip when you apply it to the joint. The molten solder greatly increases the contact area, and thus the heat transfer.

Without seeing your situation, it's hard to say exactly why you're having difficulties.
  #3  
Old 11-15-2011, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tstone View Post
The temperature needs to be high enough. Around 750° to 800° F is normally adequate. The tip of the iron needs to be clean and shiny. A wider, chisel tip is more effective for desoldering than a narrow, pointy one. And though it is counterintuitive, it is helpful to have a little blob of fresh molten solder on the end of the tip when you apply it to the joint. The molten solder greatly increases the contact area, and thus the heat transfer.

Without seeing your situation, it's hard to say exactly why you're having difficulties.
+1 to all of this.

Either you have a dirty tip, or your tip isn't hot enough. An iron takes a while to warm up to 750° to 800° F.

Make sure your tip is screwed into the iron snug for efficient heat transfer.

If the iron tip is dirty, heat it up, and wipe the tip with a damp paper towel. It will take several times, because when the cold/wet towel hits it, the tip will cool down rapidly, requiring you to wait until it heats up again.

If you don't see a shiny tip after 3-4 cleanings, dip the tip into some solder flux. This will re-tin the tip. Or, you could replace the tip. Your call.

Hope this helps you.
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  #4  
Old 11-15-2011, 11:07 PM
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You might also want to get a "solder sucker" which, in conjunction with a heated iron, sucks the excess solder off the wires. Be careful with this when you're working on PCB's...especially boards with delicate traces! (:cough: Neve... oops.. :/)
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  #5  
Old 11-16-2011, 12:45 AM
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I use copper solder wick, just did a pup replacement on my gsr200.
Ive used the solder wick for years with great results.
Also have used the sucker givin the right circumstances, i.e. board traces.
I dont know if your problem is the actual removing of the melted solder or if there is a problem with melting solder in the first place.
Hope this helps.
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  #6  
Old 11-16-2011, 02:26 AM
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I just made some small soldiers with small wires and I realized that if the wire is heated, the insulation will back. I usually use sharp scissor to remove some insulation of the cable at the beginning and then just start welding on the small exposed area. If I'm fast enough, enough to reduce isolation can not be a problem.

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Old 11-16-2011, 08:35 AM
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This is a really good tutorial I've shared on a few boards when this question has come up. It really goes through a lot of the basic techniques and does a good job of explaining the "whys" along with the "whats."

How and WHY to Solder Correctly - YouTube
  #8  
Old 11-19-2011, 01:19 AM
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sweet. thanks for all the replies everyone...
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