Some setup questions.

[deathbassist]

Hi

I need some help so I thought I would go to some fellow bassists.

So I have been trying to get my setup on my Rogue LX205B Series II 5 string ( I know it's a rogue but it was my first five string.) and I have had some difficulties with the action.

So recently I read some stuff where how I can get my action lower by starting with the truss rod. It said to pull the neck in so go clockwise with the truss rod until all your frets will touch ( Some barely touch ) a straight edge. Then give the neck some relief. So I started to do this and with my first quarter turn the strings almost felt like there was more tension on them. I don't why. Then I did another quarter turn as soon as I woke up this morning and the strings seemed to loose the tension. So the neck seems like it's good.

Now when I first got this bass the neck felt really "tight" -if you know what I mean. So I took it to my nearest guitar shop. The guy seemed to loosen the neck. ( I had a 20 year experienced guitarist try it before I took it to the shop, He knows what hes doing but he couldnt get it.So it was pretty bad) So after this was done I went home and messed with the saddles. They had to go all the way down to get almost low action. So I left it. Later to realize that the screws were bottomed out and had come out of the holes on the saddles. Right now though they are set at about halfway. I've lost 4 out of the 10 screws on my saddles. How can I fix this?

So this brings me to my main question. Is it the nut. I think it is because the nut slots seem alot highter up on this particular bass than any of my other ones. I don't know where to start on slotting a nut. I have heard you have to file the slots to make it even with your fret radius. Which I have no idea how to find my fret radius. If anyone could give me some advice on what to do with the nut, It would be very helpful. And any advice with how to get low action.

If it helps at the moment I can fit 5 playing cards between my fret and the strings at the 12th fret.

Sorry this is so long. I have a problem with explaining things so I wanted to make sure I was getting it right. I am just trying to learn.

Thanks.

[JLS]

The Rogue brand guitars & basses I've seen, are really, really bad instruments. In all seriousness, consider replacing the saddle height adjustment screws--take one to a hardware store, I knew you were going to ask--and getting rid of this, for whatever you can get out of it. Cut your losses, and move on to a better bass.

[deathbassist]

Ya I know I only bought this thing becasue I knew about six months later I would get a good six string. But I don't know. I still want a good five string to play on. Yes I agree they are really, really bad istruments.

[testing1two]

If the saddles are all the way down and your action is still high, you will need to shim the neck (do a search as there have been step by step instructions posted here before). Or take it to the best reputable tech in your area and have a complete setup performed.

I agree that a better bass will give you a better playing experience and a longer service life but a setup on your existing bass will be cheaper in the short term. And barring any horrible neck twists or unseated frets, the bass should be playable after a proper setup.

[bassgod0dmw]

Originally Posted by deathbassist

If it helps at the moment I can fit 5 playing cards between my fret and the strings at the 12th fret.

I'm not sure what that translates into for an actual measurement, but that seems pretty low already. 5 playing cards isn't much...

[mongo2]

Originally Posted by JLS

The Rogue brand guitars & basses I've seen, are really, really bad instruments.

Really? My son's 5 string Rogue has been great for the 3 years he's owned it as has my Rogue violin bass

[Pilgrim]

Originally Posted by JLS

The Rogue brand guitars & basses I've seen, are really, really bad instruments.

I can't agree. My Rogue VB-100 violin bass has been a pleasure to play ever since I got it. Installed my preferred strings and have enjoyed it ever since. No problems, great fit and finish, a nice bass indeed.

There's a lot of searchable info on TB about tuning up the nut. As for the set screws, pull one and go to a good hardware store to get replacements. When you install and adjust them, use blue Loctite or a drop of clear nail polish to keep them from working loose.

[deathbassist]

Thanks for the help Ill see what I can do.

[grendle]

The bass needs to be set up. You need to shim the neck, and get the screws back for your bridge so you can set up the correct string height. Take it to a Pro spend your $45 and be done with it. I have played Rouges before and they played fine. Pups didn't sound great, but the the ones I played were fine with a good setup and a little attention to detail.

[john grey]

The possible issue is inconsistency.

The brand (per se') may have some poor examples hit the shelves and so honest appraisal is one man sees a poor quality control another sees a better example.
Yet the problem may be complex as there are factors such as string tension and humidity that may make adjustments (long term) problematic. if the neck is constructed w/ wood that allows for a higher degree of porosity, humidity of 30-50% may have a much greater effect than a higher level QC neck, a string selection that is either inappropriate or simply old may be at the end of their life span for whatever reason and stretching. Aside from that a Truss-rod with poorly designed insertion points may also be a factor.

There might be Basses of that brand name that have higher quality wood and construction - you may also have a poorly mfg one. In questions like this any answer from knowledgeable folks who have yet to handle the instrument will always be examples of what is possibly wrong. You also know that it's within reality that the instrument is not capable of maintaining the action condition you want: simple as that.

IF you live in a high humidity area & neck construction is such that it doesn't hold Truss-rod adjustment, you are going to have to compromise quite a bit more than someone who has a Bass w/ a quality neck (we ALL compromise within some boundary).

I agree with not pouring good money after bad in the sense that IF adjustments aren't holding for one guy they not hold for a VERY experienced guy either. I would NOT go after the nut if your neck is not retaining adjustments. IF you plan on retaining the instrument I would look for a mid-point of adjustment that the thing holds! If not - SELL IT NOW!

If you don't have new good quality strings; get them.

Do your best not to expose the neck to differences in humidity and see if it retains a slight adjustment. Retaining a slight adjustment is much better than not retaining a more complete one.

Adjust your saddles; replace screws if needed & realize that the bridge or bridge/body placement may be designed poorly.

Be realistic. You COULD pour a great deal of money into this bass and eventually sell it for much less than you paid originally loosing ALL you put into it. Attempting to make lead into gold is common but rarely works without serious magic & luck.

[Solarmist]

Neck relief, and action height are two entirely different, but related adjustments. Check relief first by simultaneously holding down the string on the 1st & last frets, and check clearance around the 8th or 9th fret. Secondly set the action height (to where you like it).

[96tbird]

there should be a sticky that says only "Truss rods don't set action." and nothing else

[JTE]

Originally Posted by 96tbird

there should be a sticky that says only "Truss rods don't set action." and nothing else

INDEED! !!!!!!