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  #1  
Old 06-23-2011, 09:15 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Squier parts bass - slight gap in the neck pocket + redrilling holes question.

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I just received a Squier Bullet P-bass neck (from a member here) which I intend to install on a pewter Squier P/J body that I had.

The neck is a good fit generally, but it's not fully tight, there's about a 1 mm or less gap.

1. do I just try to center it relative to bridge or is it better to get it tight along the bass side of the picket?

2. all 4 neck holes are about 3 or 4 mm off. I have to redrill. I've filled and redrilled holes before and I also know about using masking tape on the drill bit to avoid going too deep. But any other advice on filling and redrilling would be appreciated. Usually I've used several toothpicks, which I would break off in the hole and fill with glue. I also have wood dowels I could use. Is it better to use wood glue or epoxy for this?

3. What's the safest way to mark where the new holes should be - so that it's exact? I mean, since the neck is not attached, I want to make sure I mark them exactly where they should be once things are tight.

4. Since I'll be redrilling anyway, is it a good idea to use those "neck repair" kits where instead of screws you get 4 bolts and screw-in studs?

Thanks in advance for the wisdom and advice
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  #2  
Old 06-24-2011, 12:37 PM
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bump
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  #3  
Old 06-24-2011, 12:49 PM
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Fill the holes, use some kind of string (not bass strings) on the G and E to align the neck. Put a clamp, drill the holes, assemble the bass, have fun.
  #4  
Old 06-24-2011, 01:29 PM
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thank you! clamps - that makes so much sense! any particular kind of clamps that work well? I've replaced pickups, installed bigsby units, etc., but never really worked "much" with wood. Unless it was pointed out to me (pics) I likely wouldn't know that certain clamps exist

Thank you in advance for helping.
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  #5  
Old 06-24-2011, 02:00 PM
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I just use Vice Grip welding c-clamps - the big ones with the swiveling feet.

  #6  
Old 06-24-2011, 02:11 PM
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throw a piece of metal window screen or a couple of faucet screens under the heel to keep it from shifting.

and not to state the obvious, you did say you are not into woodworking..... use some scrap wood under the feet of the clamps to protect your bass.
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Last edited by 96tbird : 06-24-2011 at 02:14 PM.
  #7  
Old 06-24-2011, 03:37 PM
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Yes, thanks, that's great reminder regardless
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  #8  
Old 06-24-2011, 06:30 PM
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All good advice.

Here's an alignment trick ...

Cut two strips of paper, about 1" wide and the full length of the sheet.

Fold the end of each strip about an inch.

With the neck in the pocket, place one of these folded ends on along each side of the neck pocket, at the heel.

Neck still loose in the pocket? Remove the strips and fold the ends over again. Place them in the pocket with the neck as above. Repeat as needed.

What you are doing is making identical thickness shims to center the heel in the pocket.

Keep the shims the same distance from the bottom (bridge end) of the pocket.

Once you get a snug fit, clamp and drill.

From your description, you'll need about 4 or 5 thicknesses on each side.

Good luck with your project.
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  #9  
Old 06-24-2011, 07:22 PM
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Steveaux, that's pretty clever! I will definitely be using that!

But I wonder: is that in fact the thing to do - center the neck like that? I'm guessing it is.

Any need to fill the gaps permanently (for appearance mostly)?
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  #10  
Old 06-24-2011, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gear_Junky View Post
Steveaux, that's pretty clever! I will definitely be using that!

But I wonder: is that in fact the thing to do - center the neck like that? I'm guessing it is.

Any need to fill the gaps permanently (for appearance mostly)?
It's surprising how much smaller the gap will appear when it's straight and even.

If you use the "screen trick", no, there should be no structural need to leave permanent shims in place. Painting the neck pocket black can make it look a bit neater. Just be sure to keep the black paint in the pocket and not over the edges (unless it's a black body). Plus, a well-fitted pickguard will further reduce the visual impact.
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Last edited by Steveaux : 06-24-2011 at 08:48 PM.
  #11  
Old 06-25-2011, 08:01 AM
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Yes, it would be best to center the neck in the pocket, assuming that the bridge was properly centered to the original neck.
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  #12  
Old 06-25-2011, 09:52 AM
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Your original email does not say that the neck is off-center or there are any problems with the strings aligning properly on the neck.

Therefore, there is no problem. A 1 MM gap is nothing to worry about.

If the strings align on the neck OK, ignore it. As long as the neck is installed so the strings align well and the neck screws are tight, there's no impact on sound.

If there is a real problem with string alignment, remove neck, drill and plug holes, re-drill and re-mount.
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Last edited by Pilgrim : 06-25-2011 at 09:54 AM.
  #13  
Old 06-25-2011, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilgrim View Post
Your original email does not say that the neck is off-center or there are any problems with the strings aligning properly on the neck.

Therefore, there is no problem. A 1 MM gap is nothing to worry about.

If the strings align on the neck OK, ignore it. As long as the neck is installed so the strings align well and the neck screws are tight, there's no impact on sound.

If there is a real problem with string alignment, remove neck, drill and plug holes, re-drill and re-mount.
+ 1

It's not the bridge as I see that needs to be in the right position once the neck is mounted - although that's kinda important too.

The most obvious (agreeing with you here) thing to consider is the string alignment on the neck. If one string is hanging off the fretboard, that's not good.

I fixed a low-cost bass for a guy the other day that had the G string at the edge of the neck and just slightly loosening the neck screws and bumping the neck to the left, put the strings back onto the center of the neck.

The slight misalignment of the p'ups isn't a real problem and the bridge is sortta where it ought to be; at least it's intonation is OK - but the strings-on-neck position is primary I feel.
  #14  
Old 06-25-2011, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurferJoe46 View Post

I fixed a low-cost bass for a guy the other day that had the G string at the edge of the neck and just slightly loosening the neck screws and bumping the neck to the left, put the strings back onto the center of the neck.

The slight misalignment of the p'ups isn't a real problem and the bridge is sortta where it ought to be; at least it's intonation is OK - but the strings-on-neck position is primary I feel.
Right!

As long as you can get the strings to a decent position on the neck by loosening screws and shifting the neck position, then tightening the screws, you're OK.
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  #15  
Old 06-25-2011, 03:49 PM
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Great, thank you, you've all been so helpful! It is correct: I don't believe there's any alignment issues, therefore I should just center the neck. I guess I was just thinking out loud to double-check myself

can't wait to get at it!
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