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06-23-2011, 09:15 PM
| | | | Squier parts bass - slight gap in the neck pocket + redrilling holes question.
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I just received a Squier Bullet P-bass neck (from a member here) which I intend to install on a pewter Squier P/J body that I had.
The neck is a good fit generally, but it's not fully tight, there's about a 1 mm or less gap.
1. do I just try to center it relative to bridge or is it better to get it tight along the bass side of the picket?
2. all 4 neck holes are about 3 or 4 mm off. I have to redrill. I've filled and redrilled holes before and I also know about using masking tape on the drill bit to avoid going too deep. But any other advice on filling and redrilling would be appreciated. Usually I've used several toothpicks, which I would break off in the hole and fill with glue. I also have wood dowels I could use. Is it better to use wood glue or epoxy for this?
3. What's the safest way to mark where the new holes should be - so that it's exact? I mean, since the neck is not attached, I want to make sure I mark them exactly where they should be once things are tight.
4. Since I'll be redrilling anyway, is it a good idea to use those "neck repair" kits where instead of screws you get 4 bolts and screw-in studs?
Thanks in advance for the wisdom and advice 
__________________
SX SPB-57 2TS Fretless (P-bass copy), Brownsville Violin Bass (nearly same as Rondo's Douglas WVEB fiddle bass), Dean EAB Playmate Acoustic 4-string (non-cutaway)
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06-24-2011, 12:37 PM
| | | | bump
__________________
SX SPB-57 2TS Fretless (P-bass copy), Brownsville Violin Bass (nearly same as Rondo's Douglas WVEB fiddle bass), Dean EAB Playmate Acoustic 4-string (non-cutaway)
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06-24-2011, 12:49 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Quebec | | | Fill the holes, use some kind of string (not bass strings) on the G and E to align the neck. Put a clamp, drill the holes, assemble the bass, have fun. | 
06-24-2011, 01:29 PM
| | | thank you! clamps - that makes so much sense! any particular kind of clamps that work well? I've replaced pickups, installed bigsby units, etc., but never really worked "much" with wood. Unless it was pointed out to me (pics) I likely wouldn't know that certain clamps exist
Thank you in advance for helping.
__________________
SX SPB-57 2TS Fretless (P-bass copy), Brownsville Violin Bass (nearly same as Rondo's Douglas WVEB fiddle bass), Dean EAB Playmate Acoustic 4-string (non-cutaway)
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06-24-2011, 02:00 PM
|  | Tuxedo BassŪ - That's Me! | | Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Hamilton, Montana | | I just use Vice Grip welding c-clamps - the big ones with the swiveling feet.   | 
06-24-2011, 02:11 PM
|  | <---Shinola Shite--^ | | Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Manitoba, Canada | | | throw a piece of metal window screen or a couple of faucet screens under the heel to keep it from shifting.
and not to state the obvious, you did say you are not into woodworking..... use some scrap wood under the feet of the clamps to protect your bass.
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'74ish Ampeg V4B, 115/210. * '75 Gibson G3. *Epi Tbird. *Squier: VM Jazz, CV 50's P. *Squier VM Jazz Assoc. *MBC 641. Squier owners club
Last edited by 96tbird : 06-24-2011 at 02:14 PM.
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06-24-2011, 03:37 PM
| | | Yes, thanks, that's great reminder regardless 
__________________
SX SPB-57 2TS Fretless (P-bass copy), Brownsville Violin Bass (nearly same as Rondo's Douglas WVEB fiddle bass), Dean EAB Playmate Acoustic 4-string (non-cutaway)
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06-24-2011, 06:30 PM
|  | Endorsing Artist: Wild Turkey Bourbon | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: The Wilds of NW Pa. | | | All good advice.
Here's an alignment trick ...
Cut two strips of paper, about 1" wide and the full length of the sheet.
Fold the end of each strip about an inch.
With the neck in the pocket, place one of these folded ends on along each side of the neck pocket, at the heel.
Neck still loose in the pocket? Remove the strips and fold the ends over again. Place them in the pocket with the neck as above. Repeat as needed.
What you are doing is making identical thickness shims to center the heel in the pocket.
Keep the shims the same distance from the bottom (bridge end) of the pocket.
Once you get a snug fit, clamp and drill.
From your description, you'll need about 4 or 5 thicknesses on each side.
Good luck with your project.
__________________ Carpe Mammatas | 
06-24-2011, 07:22 PM
| | | Steveaux, that's pretty clever! I will definitely be using that!
But I wonder: is that in fact the thing to do - center the neck like that? I'm guessing it is.
Any need to fill the gaps permanently (for appearance mostly)?
__________________
SX SPB-57 2TS Fretless (P-bass copy), Brownsville Violin Bass (nearly same as Rondo's Douglas WVEB fiddle bass), Dean EAB Playmate Acoustic 4-string (non-cutaway)
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06-24-2011, 08:45 PM
|  | Endorsing Artist: Wild Turkey Bourbon | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: The Wilds of NW Pa. | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Gear_Junky Steveaux, that's pretty clever! I will definitely be using that!
But I wonder: is that in fact the thing to do - center the neck like that? I'm guessing it is.
Any need to fill the gaps permanently (for appearance mostly)? | It's surprising how much smaller the gap will appear when it's straight and even.
If you use the "screen trick", no, there should be no structural need to leave permanent shims in place. Painting the neck pocket black can make it look a bit neater. Just be sure to keep the black paint in the pocket and not over the edges (unless it's a black body). Plus, a well-fitted pickguard will further reduce the visual impact.
__________________ Carpe Mammatas
Last edited by Steveaux : 06-24-2011 at 08:48 PM.
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06-25-2011, 08:01 AM
|  | <---Shinola Shite--^ | | Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Manitoba, Canada | | | Yes, it would be best to center the neck in the pocket, assuming that the bridge was properly centered to the original neck.
__________________
'74ish Ampeg V4B, 115/210. * '75 Gibson G3. *Epi Tbird. *Squier: VM Jazz, CV 50's P. *Squier VM Jazz Assoc. *MBC 641. Squier owners club
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06-25-2011, 09:52 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | Your original email does not say that the neck is off-center or there are any problems with the strings aligning properly on the neck.
Therefore, there is no problem. A 1 MM gap is nothing to worry about.
If the strings align on the neck OK, ignore it. As long as the neck is installed so the strings align well and the neck screws are tight, there's no impact on sound.
If there is a real problem with string alignment, remove neck, drill and plug holes, re-drill and re-mount.
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"...awesome as a monkey wearing a tuxedo made of bacon, riding on a unicorn!'"
Last edited by Pilgrim : 06-25-2011 at 09:54 AM.
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06-25-2011, 10:05 AM
|  | Tuxedo BassŪ - That's Me! | | Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Hamilton, Montana | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilgrim Your original email does not say that the neck is off-center or there are any problems with the strings aligning properly on the neck.
Therefore, there is no problem. A 1 MM gap is nothing to worry about.
If the strings align on the neck OK, ignore it. As long as the neck is installed so the strings align well and the neck screws are tight, there's no impact on sound.
If there is a real problem with string alignment, remove neck, drill and plug holes, re-drill and re-mount. | + 1
It's not the bridge as I see that needs to be in the right position once the neck is mounted - although that's kinda important too.
The most obvious (agreeing with you here) thing to consider is the string alignment on the neck. If one string is hanging off the fretboard, that's not good.
I fixed a low-cost bass for a guy the other day that had the G string at the edge of the neck and just slightly loosening the neck screws and bumping the neck to the left, put the strings back onto the center of the neck.
The slight misalignment of the p'ups isn't a real problem and the bridge is sortta where it ought to be; at least it's intonation is OK - but the strings-on-neck position is primary I feel. | 
06-25-2011, 10:07 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | Quote:
Originally Posted by SurferJoe46
I fixed a low-cost bass for a guy the other day that had the G string at the edge of the neck and just slightly loosening the neck screws and bumping the neck to the left, put the strings back onto the center of the neck.
The slight misalignment of the p'ups isn't a real problem and the bridge is sortta where it ought to be; at least it's intonation is OK - but the strings-on-neck position is primary I feel. | Right!
As long as you can get the strings to a decent position on the neck by loosening screws and shifting the neck position, then tightening the screws, you're OK.
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"...awesome as a monkey wearing a tuxedo made of bacon, riding on a unicorn!'"
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06-25-2011, 03:49 PM
| | | Great, thank you, you've all been so helpful! It is correct: I don't believe there's any alignment issues, therefore I should just center the neck. I guess I was just thinking out loud to double-check myself
can't wait to get at it! 
__________________
SX SPB-57 2TS Fretless (P-bass copy), Brownsville Violin Bass (nearly same as Rondo's Douglas WVEB fiddle bass), Dean EAB Playmate Acoustic 4-string (non-cutaway)
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