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03-29-2008, 10:39 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2007 Location: niles, mi | | SR 885 neck/head death...
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last night i was playing a particularly... uh... vigorous gig and when it was over i discovered... much to my (and my bandmates) horror that i have developed a... split in the top of my headstock down towards my top left tuning peg. i've been playing this bass in this band for two years now and in two other bands previous (for about 4 to 5 years) . i love the way that it plays and i have a lot of memories attached to it.
i've been searching for several hours now through Ebay, google and here to find out what i can about possibly replacing the neck (which, of course includes the damaged head) on my SR885.
it seems that the general consensus is that it's not worth it to try and replace an ibanez neck and that they don't sell them. (why then, i ask... would they list a part number on their website and have a bolt-on neck... cost, i suppose would be a good reason but it seems illogical to me)
i'm just trying to find a final answer as to whether or not i can replace this part or if i should just give up and start looking for something else (the neck width of the ibanez i am incredibly happy with and would probably downgrade a hair to the 405 as it is within my price range...)
unfortunately i have several gigs coming up in the next few days and only have a four string as a replacement... which won't do (i play in a band that only does originals) as i've written my bass parts for all five strings... i can adapt.. but if at ALL possible i'd rather not.
so anyways...any sort of feedback, either positive or negative would be appreciated.
[spunj13]
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03-30-2008, 05:40 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by spunj13 last night i was playing a particularly... uh... vigorous gig and when it was over i discovered... much to my (and my bandmates) horror that i have developed a... split in the top of my headstock down towards my top left tuning peg. i've been playing this bass in this band for two years now and in two other bands previous (for about 4 to 5 years) . i love the way that it plays and i have a lot of memories attached to it.
i've been searching for several hours now through Ebay, google and here to find out what i can about possibly replacing the neck (which, of course includes the damaged head) on my SR885.
it seems that the general consensus is that it's not worth it to try and replace an ibanez neck and that they don't sell them. (why then, i ask... would they list a part number on their website and have a bolt-on neck... cost, i suppose would be a good reason but it seems illogical to me)
i'm just trying to find a final answer as to whether or not i can replace this part or if i should just give up and start looking for something else (the neck width of the ibanez i am incredibly happy with and would probably downgrade a hair to the 405 as it is within my price range...)
unfortunately i have several gigs coming up in the next few days and only have a four string as a replacement... which won't do (i play in a band that only does originals) as i've written my bass parts for all five strings... i can adapt.. but if at ALL possible i'd rather not.
so anyways...any sort of feedback, either positive or negative would be appreciated.
[spunj13] | Is it possible to have the neck repaired? Check with a pro. That might be the best. And then, take better care of your instrument.
Have you actually contacted Ibanez about getting a replacement neck? Not just asked around for opinions, but actually spoken to someone at Ibanez?
Replacement necks are never cheap unless you can find a good used one, and that's not likely with your Ibanez. A repair could be expensive too but may be the only way.
Either way, you won't have your bass back in shape in time for that gig. | 
03-30-2008, 08:44 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Finland (Northern Europe) | | Hi, spunj13.
I personally have never seen a headstock crack that's unrepairable. They are even among the easiest ones to repair IME.
Could You give us a pic to make an more educated guess  .
Any luthier will be able to repair that crack, easily, is my guess at this point.
Regards
Sam | 
03-30-2008, 08:45 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: lima | | | ibanez does seel replacement parts for all their instruments(as far as i know) but i think it is really expensive to buy one | 
03-30-2008, 08:49 AM
| | Registered User Tech Director, dBm Pro Audio Services, New York | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: NYC | | | Peghead splits in unlaminated headstocks are not uncommon and very easy to repair, especially in a non-load bearing area like yours. You do NOT need a replacement neck! | 
03-30-2008, 09:21 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Woodbridge, NJ | | Ibanez wants you to buy a new bass. i've read necks actually become stronger after repairing a crack on it. no?
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03-30-2008, 09:24 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: lima | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeeltoro i've read necks actually become stronger after repairing a crack on it. no? | are you sure? i have heard the opposite
that necks are never the same but they get pretty good after repairs
it also the depends on how bad it is now | 
03-30-2008, 10:23 AM
| | Registered User Tech Director, dBm Pro Audio Services, New York | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: NYC | | | Glue joints are usually stronger than the surrounding wood. If a crack is repaired PROPERLY (i.e. with no air spaces or glue voids), it is unlikely ever to crack again.
Think of all the set-neck and neck-through axes out there that are held (and stay) together with glue.
Headstock splits happen for a couple of reasons. If the headstock has glued-on "wings", these can separate if bumped or if a machine screw hole is drilled directly into the seam. Also, many machine holes are not DRILLED, they are wood screws simply screwed into wood without a pilot hole. These can also cause a latent split, as the wood is forced apart in that area. When tension is applied and the headstock twists slightly (they all do), the conditions for a split to occur are there.
As was stated, there are very few crack, if any, that cannot be repaired professionally, and in many cases, invisibly or close to it.
Last edited by jrfrond : 03-30-2008 at 10:26 AM.
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03-30-2008, 10:46 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2007 Location: niles, mi | | | perhaps a workable fix is in order... the concept of actually being able to fix the bass is much more cost effective (as i haven't much in the way of funds) than buying a new one...
and you've all been quite helpful.
here are a couple of pictures of the headstock...(as requested)
[spunj13]
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03-30-2008, 10:53 AM
| | Registered User Tech Director, dBm Pro Audio Services, New York | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: NYC | | | A) not an issue to repair that correctly and permanently.
B) you have a nice-sized ding at the top of that crack, which proves it did not just come out of nowhere.
You STILL do not need a new neck. | 
03-30-2008, 10:59 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2007 Location: niles, mi | | | i realize that i have put the bass through hell... and i would NEVER have claimed that it came out of nowhere. i play in a very... well... over-active band. stresses on instruments are expected (as well as body parts.. i personally come away from most shows with bloody knees and sometimes other body parts as well)
i don't know of any luthier's in my area (southwestern michigan) and am not quite sure even where to start looking for one.
OR ... could i just repair it myself. and what exactly would i need as far as equipment (clamps, glues and what-not) to do that?
[spunj13]
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03-30-2008, 12:08 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Finland (Northern Europe) | | Hi, spunj13.
Def. repairable IMO.
If You're handy, that qualifies as a DIY repair, IMHO again.
You'll need a couple of clamps, good moisture resistant wood glue, a wooden spatula or two some wipes and a bit of time.
The E & A machine heads need to be removed at least. As the crack seems to end to the E machine head hole You should be safe if you just jam something in the top of the crack to keep it closing before removing the tuners.
Then You just work the glue into the crack with the wooden spatula (can be done with Your finger if you have surgical gloves) until it comes out from the other side.
Then, as You clamp the headstock pieces together closing the gap and forcing the exess glue out, it should be wiped clean immediately. Don't clamp so hard that all the glue squeezes out, use moderate pressure.
Normally that is followed by a finish of some sort, but I think that's not necessary if the glue used is moisture resistant. You can obviously apply a rattle can clear-coat if you test the compatibility first and scotch-brite the surface before spraying.
The repair should last quite a while and withstand any NORMAL handling  .
Have fun.
Sam | 
03-30-2008, 12:17 PM
|  | Sick and tired of being sick and tired. | | Join Date: May 2005 Location: Belfair, WA | | | that's an easy fix - btw, what the bejesus did you hit????
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03-30-2008, 12:20 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Jackson, MO | | | I just used some Titebond III (picked it up at Lowe's for $6 or $7) on our guitar player's Dean ML that split right through the center. It's holding up fantastically well.
I'm not a luthier or anything, so there may be a better brand of glue to use that I'm not aware of. But this is what I use at work on coutertops and trim pieces that can't be nailed. It's very strong and waterproof (or so it says on the label). I can usually put whatever I'm gluing into full service after a good overnight drying session.
edit... go ahead and grab that SR405 anyway. Looks like a backup 5'er would actually do you some good. You could also try the 505... The wenge and bubinga necks are awesome.
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Last edited by Curtybob : 03-30-2008 at 12:23 PM.
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03-30-2008, 12:27 PM
|  | no really, smokemeth&hailsatan | | Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Pueblo, CO | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitsapbass that's an easy fix - btw, what the bejesus did you hit???? | His head. Thats why he can't remember. | 
03-31-2008, 12:43 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2007 Location: niles, mi | | | i was playing in a low/high stage ceilinged (is that a word?) venue and probably swung up into said ceiling, though i can't be sure.
[joeinsprings] in fact, i DID hit my head... but not on my bass head. i tripped over the prone body of my vocalist whilst running backwards and flew backwards (maintaining what i was playing) and slamming my head into the venue wall... (which, might i mention... was made of brick and did hurt a bit.. oh well... comes with the territory, i suppose.)
thank you SO much to everybody ... you've been amazingly helpful, i will be going out to a hardware store tomorrow to pick up the necessary accoutrements for the repair operation.
[spunj13]
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03-31-2008, 01:05 AM
|  | no really, smokemeth&hailsatan | | Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Pueblo, CO | | | Wow. I was just kidding, but that's an awesome story man! Souds like you guys tear the place apart when you play. Hope you bass comes out allright. | 
03-31-2008, 05:38 AM
| | | | That looks like an easy repair - but I'd consider taking that one "to the shop". I've been reading-up on repairs, and having the entire peg-head break *completely* off is considered a very repairable break. Pretty common with Gibson electrics, I believe.
I think the trick with yours is:
* Use the right glue
* Inject the glue into the crack properly
* Clamp properly (not TOO tight, or glue will be squeezed out)
* Allow sufficient drying-time
A real pro could even dab some paint on the crack, and polish it, but that may be over-kill. | 
03-31-2008, 05:53 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Evergreen Park, IL | | Quote:
Originally Posted by dbcandle That looks like an easy repair - but I'd consider taking that one "to the shop". I've been reading-up on repairs, and having the entire peg-head break *completely* off is considered a very repairable break. Pretty common with Gibson electrics, I believe.
I think the trick with yours is:
* Use the right glue
* Inject the glue into the crack properly
* Clamp properly (not TOO tight, or glue will be squeezed out)
* Allow sufficient drying-time
A real pro could even dab some paint on the crack, and polish it, but that may be over-kill. | glossy nail polish maybe after the glue dries? | 
03-31-2008, 05:53 AM
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