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  #1  
Old 12-16-2008, 09:59 AM
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Staining a Warwick?

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I couldn't find any information that quite fits:

What would be the pros and cons of staining a Warwick Thumb Bolt-On? Could it be done to eliminate the need for waxing? I think one of those would look great with black stain. Anyone done it?

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 12-16-2008, 10:40 AM
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You don't want to try and stain over a waxed finish...you won't get evenly distributed stain absorption. If you can remove the wax and open up the wood pores stain should work, but I'll defer to others on how to achieve that.
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  #3  
Old 12-16-2008, 10:50 AM
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Personally, I don't quite understand why you would as their natural woodgrain basses look fantatic, but at the very least I imagine it would involve removing everything from the body (including neck, bridge and electronics), sanding it back to the wood grain and staining it from there.

But get some proper advice before even seriously contemplating it.
  #4  
Old 12-16-2008, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunkinfunder View Post
I couldn't find any information that quite fits:

What would be the pros and cons of staining a Warwick Thumb Bolt-On? Could it be done to eliminate the need for waxing? I think one of those would look great with black stain. Anyone done it?

Thanks.
I've done a lot of that kind of thing and it can be done. But you have a bass which you want to look good. You're an amateur at refinishing. So, pick up a book from Taunton Press by Jeff Jewitt called "Hand Applied Finishes". It'll answer all your questions.
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:09 AM
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Has anyone applied a little stain to anchor rubbing spots? I imaging it might be tough to match the color.
  #6  
Old 12-16-2008, 11:23 AM
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Has anyone applied a little stain to anchor rubbing spots? I imaging it might be tough to match the color.
good question! call me petty but I've passed on beautiful warwicks because of those marks
  #7  
Old 12-16-2008, 11:59 AM
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I've found that using some Linseed Oil works wonders on those spots. After the oil soaks in, give the entire bass a good waxing/buffing. Granted, eventually the spot will return. It's just one of those things.

I'm an advocate of using Linseed Oil on the entire bass. It darkens the wood overtime.
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  #8  
Old 12-16-2008, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 62bass View Post
I've done a lot of that kind of thing and it can be done. But you have a bass which you want to look good. You're an amateur at refinishing. So, pick up a book from Taunton Press by Jeff Jewitt called "Hand Applied Finishes". It'll answer all your questions.
Thanks for the tip. That's the kind of information I was looking for.
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  #9  
Old 12-16-2008, 01:58 PM
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I didn't put anything in my OP about wax removal before staining, because it seemed like a no-brainer.
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  #10  
Old 12-16-2008, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Thunkinfunder View Post
Thanks for the tip. That's the kind of information I was looking for.
It really is an informative book written by a pro who knows what he's talking about.

I've tried helping guys on this forum get through stripping and refinishing with mixed results. Some do it right and others don't. Not their fault. It's a skill that takes some practice and a bit of technical knowhow before starting.

Taunton Press publishes Fine Woodworking magazine and Jewitt writes for them and other publications as well as running a finishing shop and an on line finishing supply company. He goes on lecture tours as well. He knows his stuff.
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Old 12-19-2008, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Jake of Bass View Post
Personally, I don't quite understand why you would as their natural woodgrain basses look fantatic, but at the very least I imagine it would involve removing everything from the body (including neck, bridge and electronics), sanding it back to the wood grain and staining it from there.

But get some proper advice before even seriously contemplating it.

Ya, if you like wood grain. I personally hate wood grain. Maybe he bought it because he loves the sound from his warwick even though he didn't have many options for colors besides wood.
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  #12  
Old 12-19-2008, 11:04 AM
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I just bought a Nirvana Black Warwick Corvette $$ and was done with it. I've had it now for almost two years now. As it's aged I've noticed that the grain is starting to get more prominent. Really cool looking. But, that doesn't help you at. [/tangent]
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  #13  
Old 12-19-2008, 01:24 PM
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Hey. Thanks guys. I am scoring a used one for pretty cheap. It's been beaten up a little, and I just kinda want it to be different from all the other ones.

I gave serious consideration to a black $$, but this one sort of fell in my lap.
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  #14  
Old 12-19-2008, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by stabbicus View Post
I've found that using some Linseed Oil works wonders on those spots. After the oil soaks in, give the entire bass a good waxing/buffing. Granted, eventually the spot will return. It's just one of those things.

I'm an advocate of using Linseed Oil on the entire bass. It darkens the wood overtime.
One of the chaps on the Warwick.de forums (Thumbin was his old profile, I think it changed) did this, and that thing was stellar. Really brought the grain out.

c-
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  #15  
Old 12-21-2008, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake of Bass View Post
Personally, I don't quite understand why you would as their natural woodgrain basses look fantatic
Agree, though if it's not your thing and all of the wax is removed it should take fine.
Just make sure all of the wax is out. It will be difficult to remove the wax from all of the grain I'd imagine.
  #16  
Old 12-22-2008, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Thunkinfunder View Post
I didn't put anything in my OP about wax removal before staining, because it seemed like a no-brainer.
Of course it is, but that doesn't mean that a lot of those who post here wouldn't have a clue about it! Congrats on having that scoped out.

I don't think sanding alone would remove wax or oil - you'd need to get into the pores of the wood. I suspect that an additional treatment with a solvent would be needed. Whether that would be mineral spirits, denatured alcohol or something else is not clear to me.
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  #17  
Old 12-22-2008, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Pilgrim View Post
Of course it is, but that doesn't mean that a lot of those who post here wouldn't have a clue about it! Congrats on having that scoped out.

I don't think sanding alone would remove wax or oil - you'd need to get into the pores of the wood. I suspect that an additional treatment with a solvent would be needed. Whether that would be mineral spirits, denatured alcohol or something else is not clear to me.
Mineral spirits (paint thinner), naptha or alcohol will all dissolve wax. I'd go with the paint thinner myself because it doesn't evaporate quite so quickly. Several washings with the solvent will be needed to get all the wax out of the pores. Use a clean cotton cloth for each application or a very fine (white) nylon kitchen scrubbing pad. After the solvent dries, if you see white in the grain, that's wax, so wash it again.
  #18  
Old 12-22-2008, 12:19 PM
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Mineral spirits (aka: paint thinner) does have one additional virtue: it doesn't raise the grain.

Use only in a well-ventilated area, plizz.
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  #19  
Old 12-22-2008, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by (b)Assman View Post
Ya, if you like wood grain. I personally hate wood grain. Maybe he bought it because he loves the sound from his warwick even though he didn't have many options for colors besides wood.
True, I just assumed everyone likes woodgrain
I've had many comments about my Cort woodgrain fretless, and most of them aren't even along the lines of "What, don't Cort make crap?"
  #20  
Old 12-23-2008, 12:52 PM
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Hand Finishing wood.

Good advice on that book referral. I think it has a chapter on French Polishing which is especialy nice. i'd use tung oil rather than linseed as it cures much faster. Hand rubbing (with your fingers) allows you to actually heat up the wood so it will absorb more of the oil. Real curing takes a couple of weeks so hold off on final waxing till then. I like denatured alcohol because it does raise tha grain which I remove with XXXXX fine steel wool. If you can get 200 proof Everclear at the package store it works best and you can have party later with the rest. Unless, of course, you polish it off while polishing the bass. Also check out the stuff (Birchwood-Casey?) that rifle stock refinishers use to fill the grain on open grain woods like mahogony and walnut. I don't like abrasive paper because it leaves silicon oxide gravel in the pores. Steel wool dust is easier to remove. But keep it FAR away from your pickups! I don't like stain unless the piece of wood is crappy. I feel that a stain obscures the natural beauty of the wood grain.
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