Stew Mac Set Up Kit- is it worth it?

TheWoodShed · #1 05-30-2011, 03:20 PM

Replacing he hardware on my Acacia Custom 4, and was needing some tool to assist. The Stew Mac Basic Set Up Kit seems nice, but a bit pricey for what you get or is it a good investment? Are there any good alternatives?

I am familiar with basic set up, and have been doing my own for years, but I usually just eye things like the neck radius for the bridge and the like.

knucklehead G · #2 05-30-2011, 03:28 PM

Go to Walmart, head to the automotive section. Buy gap measuring thing you use for spark plugs. Bam, "string action gauge," $5. Stay in Walmart, go to the tools section. Buy a straight edge for $10-15, then find a black Sharpie and write "PRECISION" on the side. While in tools, get a set of allen wrenches and a screw driver.

Enjoy your $30 knucklehead's Set-Up Kit, and send me the change.

Pilgrim · #3 05-30-2011, 05:55 PM

I won't argue that most of the stuff in that kit can be found or built in various ways, but the understring radius gauges and the string action gauge are unique to Stew-Mac. You can by both of those from Stew-Mac for $55 combined, and get the rest as standard tools.

You will of course buy more tools, including one each set of Metric and SAE Allen wrenches, and a set of automotive feeler gauges. The straight edge to check for fret evenness is available lots of places.

**TXLawDawg** · #4 05-30-2011, 06:08 PM

I wouldn't buy the whole kit - a little expensive. However, I have been thinking about getting their string action gauge just because it's easier to read than the marks on my pocket ruler.

scotch · #5 05-30-2011, 06:12 PM

I agree with the above consensus. The understring radius gauges are handy!

I do use that string action gauge an awful lot, too! The precision straightedge isn't really necessary for that price, though.

**Kinetic Shadow** · #6 05-30-2011, 09:47 PM

+1 to the string action gauge.

mordechai · #7 05-30-2011, 10:01 PM

also for basic set ups nothing is a more effective straight edge than a string simultaneously fretted at the first and last frets.

seanm · #8 05-31-2011, 12:17 AM

I really like the under string radius gauges. But really, I got along fine with a piece of cardboard that I cut the correct radius into. For the odd setup, it worked great.

Of that set, the radius gauges are the only thing I have. I use the strings as a straightedge. This is what I use for a standard setup:

* 6" ruler with 32ths for the first inch
* automotive feeler gauges
* capo
* tuner
* radius gauge of some sort
* allen wrench or large screwdriver for the truss rod (depends on the truss rod)
* allen wrench for the bridge
* cutters for strings

Optional but really handy: fret end dressing file

mech · #9 05-31-2011, 06:02 AM

Check out your area pawn shops. All the tools you may need will be there for cheap.

mech

TheWoodShed · #10 05-31-2011, 09:18 PM

Well, I got a set of steel understring radiius gauges from another manufacturer for a bit less than the Stew Macs. Ended up getting the Stew Mac String height measure as it looked too handy not to have around. I liked the idea of being able to span a couple of frets to keep it level.

Later on I will probably get a straight edge to finish it us, but ran out of money for now.

Has a anyone ever used the notched neck straight edges?

azfryguy · #11 06-01-2011, 12:57 AM

Straight edge=Useless because frets can swell up thus for making your reading inaccurate.

Radius Gauges=Useless because strings have differents gauges and if you had them all radiused the thinner strings would be much hader to play.

String action gauge=Overpriced 6" rule.

UncleFluffy · #12 06-01-2011, 01:13 AM

Depends on what your time is worth to you. If you have the time to go collect all the tools from other sources, then it's not a good deal. If you don't, and just want to "get it done", then it is. Personally, I have the Stew-Mac kit and I'm glad that I got it.

KingRazor · #13 06-01-2011, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azfryguy

Straight edge=Useless because frets can swell up thus for making your reading inaccurate.

Radius Gauges=Useless because strings have differents gauges and if you had them all radiused the thinner strings would be much hader to play.

String action gauge=Overpriced 6" rule.

Actually, if you're setting your string action from the bottom of the string, the thickest strings would be the farthest from the fretboard.

DJS · #14 06-01-2011, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knucklehead G

Go to Walmart, head to the automotive section. Buy gap measuring thing you use for spark plugs. Bam, "string action gauge," $5. Stay in Walmart, go to the tools section. Buy a straight edge for $10-15, then find a black Sharpie and write "PRECISION" on the side. While in tools, get a set of allen wrenches and a screw driver.

Enjoy your $30 knucklehead's Set-Up Kit, and send me the change.

I'd spend the money on a real Stew Mac truss rod adjustment driver, but otherwise share the knucklehead sentiment.

seanm · #15 06-01-2011, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingRazor

Actually, if you're setting your string action from the bottom of the string, the thickest strings would be the farthest from the fretboard.

Ummm, do people actually set the radius from under the strings? I always set from on top.

I thought the purpose of the under string radius was to be able to get the correct radius of the fretboard without having to remove the strings. This is how I use it.

KingRazor · #16 06-01-2011, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanm

Ummm, do people actually set the radius from under the strings? I always set from on top.

I thought the purpose of the under string radius was to be able to get the correct radius of the fretboard without having to remove the strings. This is how I use it.

I know I would definitely set the radius from underneath. That way the action of the strings is consistent. If you measured from the top, the thicker strings would be closer to the frets, simply due to being thicker.

EDIT: To illustrate my point:

If you measure from the top, the thickest string will be closer to the fretboard than the thinnest.

If you measure from the bottom, the thinnest string will be closest. For me, this is the best scenario, as it will help keep the lower strings from hitting the frets.

seanm · #17 06-01-2011, 12:35 PM

Correct, but I like the strings to be even under my fingers. And I put the action a little lower on the G side anyway to partially compensate.

But I may try it from underneath on my practice bass and see how I like it.

KingRazor · #18 06-01-2011, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanm

Correct, but I like the strings to be even under my fingers. And I put the action a little lower on the G side anyway to partially compensate.

But I may try it from underneath on my practice bass and see how I like it.

There is that, and I guess on a low radius instrument that can be quite a big difference, so obviously one should use whatever method they are more comfortable with.

For me, buzzing on the low strings has always been an issue.

**pacojas** · #19 06-01-2011, 12:45 PM

no kits for me... i just eye-ball my set-ups.

electracoyote · #20 06-01-2011, 12:45 PM

For me, the string action gauge is indispensable. The feeler gauges can come in handy, but I've learned to use my eyeballs for a lot of the things it's designed for. The radius gauges serve no purpose for me, I set the string radius based on the action string-to-string. And most people already have a straight edge of some sort.

I think the usefulness of the complete kit depends on your individual approach to set ups and what tools you already have on hand.