straplock help

Buslady7803 · #1 02-16-2011, 01:48 PM

here's the deal - i got me Warwick a set of original locks...problem, the screw for the button is too thin for the bass ...I guess the previous owner thought the originals sucked-but the buttons it came with were not originals.... .. i have to use that screw cos the head is small allowing the strap side to lock in and stay. (tried the screws I had before, the head is too big, it won't lock in)

So...

my question is, can I do something to make the original screw work? Is there something I can fill into the hole to make the screw fit and secure the button well?

Reason I'm using Warwick locks, the pins actually fit my good wool strap. The leather ends are too thick for Dunlops and Schallers ..thought I'd try original locks and they work...just gotta get the bass side to work and be reliable.

**TXLawDawg** · #2 02-16-2011, 01:54 PM

I'd just buy me some new Dunlops, install them and be done with it. I've had staps that you might think were too thick for the Dunlops to work but they did - you just had to work at it.

**mintondm** · #3 02-16-2011, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buslady7803

here's the deal - i got me Warwick a set of original locks...problem, the screw for the button is too thin for the bass ...I guess the previous owner thought the originals sucked-but the buttons it came with were not originals.... .. i have to use that screw cos the head is small allowing the strap side to lock in and stay. (tried the screws I had before, the head is too big, it won't lock in)

So...

my question is, can I do something to make the original screw work? Is there something I can fill into the hole to make the screw fit and secure the button well?

Reason I'm using Warwick locks, the pins actually fit my good wool strap. The leather ends are too thick for Dunlops and Schallers ..thought I'd try original locks and they work...just gotta get the bass side to work and be reliable.

I know people refrain from "filling" unless it's a last resort... I would take a trip to Home Depots hardware isle, take the screws (old and new) and the peg, and find a wood screw with a with the same thread as the origonal, possibly a button head so that it clears the hole in the peg.

When you are installing it, go ahead and put some wood glue on the screws, just a little before install, and try and get the the same thread spacing (medium, coarse, ect) to match the origonal screws so that you don't do more damage to the hole (turn it a quarter to half turn backward until the threads fall into place before gently hand screwing it forward). And make it a little longer too so it bites into the fresh wood.

Don't forget the lock-tite for the threads on the strap nut! :-)

Buslady7803 · #4 02-16-2011, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TXLawDawg

I'd just buy me some new Dunlops, install them and be done with it. I've had staps that you might think were too thick for the Dunlops to work but they did - you just had to work at it.

I've worked my ass off trying to get one dunlop in there, none of my Dunlops will fit. I got one side on, but damn...the other side leaves no space for the little c-clamp.

Buslady7803 · #5 02-16-2011, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mintondm

I know people refrain from "filling" unless it's a last resort... I would take a trip to Home Depots hardware isle, take the screws (old and new) and the peg, and find a wood screw with a with the same thread as the origonal, possibly a button head so that it clears the hole in the peg.

When you are installing it, go ahead and put some wood glue on the screws, just a little before install, and try and get the the same thread spacing (medium, coarse, ect) to match the origonal screws so that you don't do more damage to the hole (turn it a quarter to half turn backward until the threads fall into place before gently hand screwing it forward). And make it a little longer too so it bites into the fresh wood.

Don't forget the lock-tite for the threads on the strap nut! :-)

I'll try that, Home Depot is 5 min away. And yes lock-tite...thank you! That was another thing, I dont want the nut coming off. lol ouch!

**mintondm** · #6 02-16-2011, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buslady7803

I'll try that, Home Depot is 5 min away. And yes lock-tite...thank you! That was another thing, I dont want the nut coming off. lol ouch!

NP! Yeah there are oddles of wood screws out there with different head diameters/styles and lengths. I just can not impress enough the importance of respecting the existing threads in the body! You don't wanna tear an grid out the hole any more than humanly possible, otherwise you will be stuck getting a foot long screw just to grab!! Baaaad joo-joo! And the wood glue is mostly to fill in the gaps between the threads on the body and the threads on the screw, so don't get too crazy!

Yeah I had one close call and after pooping a little, went and grabbed the loctite before the next show lol.

Zooberwerx · #7 02-16-2011, 06:25 PM

Couple of suggestions:

*If the screw head is too wide / large to fit within the strap button recess, the screw "shoulder" can be ground down with a Dremel tool or file (time consuming!).

*When fitting Dunlop or Schaller strapends on a super-thick strap, it helps to razor off the "corners" where the slit transitions to the hole. Hmmm...that reminds me of something else but can't recall for the moment.

Riis

Buslady7803 · #8 02-16-2011, 06:31 PM

I tried to trim the leathers...afraid it won't leave enough for the lock to grab onto.

Don't have a dremel heheh...

Zooberwerx · #9 02-16-2011, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buslady7803

I tried to trim the leathers...afraid it won't leave enough for the lock to grab onto.

Don't have a dremel heheh...

Okay, try this: borrow a "C" clamp if you don't have one handy. Place the strap's business end between the clamping surfaces and tighten that bad boy up. This will usually flatten the leather enough to get the strapend into place. You can also flatten the leather with a ball peen hammer.

Hey, I'm not making this stuff up....

Riis

Buslady7803 · #10 02-16-2011, 09:01 PM

I've been told of a solution that seems to work. It involves toothpicks and optional wood glue.

LOL I don't have either a ball peen hammer or a C clamp to squish the leather..we suck here tool wise. The hubs ain't much with tools either

walterw · #11 02-16-2011, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mintondm

...try and get the the same thread spacing (medium, coarse, ect) to match the origonal screws so that you don't do more damage to the hole (turn it a quarter to half turn backward until the threads fall into place before gently hand screwing it forward).

+1

don't "double-thread" the holes, cutting a new thread beside the original one and losing more wood in the process.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zooberwerx

If the screw head is too wide / large to fit within the strap button recess, the screw "shoulder" can be ground down with a Dremel tool or file (time consuming!).

nah, just chuck the threaded end of the screw into your drill and spin the head against a running belt-sander or grinding wheel. 30 seconds, done.

finally, it's fine to shove wooden toothpicks slathered thickly with wood glue into the hole, then crank the skinnier screw right in. done right, it'll be just as strong as the original screw. (yes, really; the new wood will be forced to conform against the old threads, making a strong glue joint once the screw is cranked in to "clamp" everything tightly together while the glue dries.)

Buslady7803 · #12 02-17-2011, 12:21 AM

the toothpicks worked...that sucker is tight and solid, it's not going anywhere.

mcapote · #13 02-17-2011, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buslady7803

I've been told of a solution that seems to work. It involves toothpicks and optional wood glue.

don't know why that wasn't the first suggestion given, that's what most bassists and guitarists to in live gig situations too LOL.

Kristoff Von · #14 02-17-2011, 07:25 AM

It's all about matchsticks. Always in the toolbox and works a treat

walterw · #15 02-17-2011, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buslady7803

I've been told of a solution that seems to work. It involves toothpicks and optional wood glue.

the wood glue is not optional!

**nervous** · #16 02-19-2011, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walterw

+1

don't "double-thread" the holes, cutting a new thread beside the original one and losing more wood in the process.

nah, just chuck the threaded end of the screw into your drill and spin the head against a running belt-sander or grinding wheel. 30 seconds, done.

finally, it's fine to shove wooden toothpicks slathered thickly with wood glue into the hole, then crank the skinnier screw right in. done right, it'll be just as strong as the original screw. (yes, really; the new wood will be forced to conform against the old threads, making a strong glue joint once the screw is cranked in to "clamp" everything tightly together while the glue dries.)

Exactly right on all counts. I have fixed many this way and have only had one guitar or bass in many years that DIDN'T require some fixing in these areas. I have found thought that in extreme cases I have made larger filler pieces out of hardwood and always let the glue set up some so that it didn't immediately 'spin out'. In one case I drilled the hole larger and did a complete fill with a suitable dowel and simply re-drilled. Never had another problem. Turning the screw heads down on a drill press is also a great technique, especially using a small, fine file.

walterw · #17 02-20-2011, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nervous

I have found thought that in extreme cases I have made larger filler pieces out of hardwood and always let the glue set up some so that it didn't immediately 'spin out'.

well, if the stuff was "spinning out" it just meant you didn't have enough in there. the hole should be stuffed to the point that the screw immediately compresses everything against the sides and holds it there. (if the wood glue isn't squeezing out you didn't use enough.) letting the glue partially dry just means a weaker glue joint.

you should be able to crank the screw in tight enough to have it "stop" firmly like it would in a fresh hole; hell, you should be able to put a strap right on the instrument and go do the gig!