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03-23-2007, 09:49 AM
|  | Registered User Endorsing artist: Musicman basses, Hipshot products | | Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: New York City | | | straplock tragedy!
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was putting straplocks on my new stingray yesterday evening. while putting the one in the horn it got to the point where no amount of my human strength could turn it any more. but i persisted. to make a long story short - the screw head is stripped in both directions, there's about a 16th of an inch of the screw exposed beneath the pin (not enough to get any tool that I own into) and it's impossible to grip the head.
does this mean I have to rip the damn screw out, stuff the hole with toothpicks, and start all over - or would someone better equipped for this job be able to remove the screw.
this sucks. | 
03-23-2007, 10:05 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Dayton, Ohio | | | sorry to hear about that, If it were me I would not try to fix that myself, i'd suggest taking it to a shop that you trust maybe they will have had to fix a similiar problem in the past I would think?
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03-23-2007, 10:39 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Holland, Michigan | | | You'd sacrifice the strap button, but if you were to saw it off (about 1/2 way, then you could put some vice grips on the newly headless screw. | 
03-23-2007, 10:41 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Birmingham, UK | | | I would offer to fix that, but im in the UK...
but heres how I'd do it: Cut a slot across the screw head with a junior hacksaw, then use a sharp flat bladed screwdriver to get the screw out. Then once its out, put the straplock back in, but use a smaller screw!!
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03-23-2007, 10:51 AM
|  | Registered User Endorsing artist: Musicman basses, Hipshot products | | Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: New York City | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbob Jones I would offer to fix that, but im in the UK...
but heres how I'd do it: Cut a slot across the screw head with a junior hacksaw, then use a sharp flat bladed screwdriver to get the screw out. Then once its out, put the straplock back in, but use a smaller screw!! | problem is ya can't even get to the head of the screw. the strap-peg is recessed, it's a slot that the screw goes in. can only reach with the screwdriver, and you can't fit nothing BUT a screwdriver in the hole. :P I'm goin to my local fix it guy in a little while. gonna see what he can do. fingers are crossed. | 
03-23-2007, 11:40 AM
|  | Semi-Retired Endorsing Artist: FBB Bass Works/Barker Bass | | Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Monroe Twp, NJ | | Well that's a drag Joe, I hope your guy can get it straighted out. The Dunlop straplocks all seem to have longer screws than the ones in the non-lock buttons. I usually just take a very small drill and extend the hole just a bit.
Yeah, that's definitely a drag .....  | 
03-23-2007, 11:41 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Canadia | | | For the life of me, I can't remember what its called, but you can buy a tool that removes stripped bolts/screws exactly like you describe. Its basically a drill bit with teeth that grab into the wallowed out hole. Works like a charm. A good tool supplier should have one and they are cheap... | 
03-23-2007, 11:41 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Silicon Valley, CA, USA | | | Drill out the screw head, remove the button, try the hacksaw trick.
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03-23-2007, 11:42 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Portland, Oregon | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Beej For the life of me, I can't remember what its called, but you can buy a tool that removes stripped bolts/screws exactly like you describe. Its basically a drill bit with teeth that grab into the wallowed out hole. Works like a charm. A good tool supplier should have one and they are cheap... | I think it is a Sears Craftsman product.
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03-23-2007, 12:33 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Holland, Michigan | | Quote:
Originally Posted by chucko58 Drill out the screw head, remove the button, try the hacksaw trick. | I have one of those, and it does work well, BUT it's too big to fit into a strap button. | 
03-23-2007, 12:53 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cottage Grove, St. Paul suburb | | | The tool is called an "easy out." | 
03-23-2007, 01:18 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sac Area | | Quote:
Originally Posted by chucko58 Drill out the screw head, remove the button, try the hacksaw trick. | Once the button is off, you can probably grab the screw with locking pliers (Vise grips) and get it out. Grab it sideways though - not from the end. You'll get more contact and grip sideways.
Then....measure the NEW screw, and pre-drill the PROPER size pilot hole and you'll have no problems.
NOTE: When drilling, the bit is likely to grab and spin the button too. Make sure and protect the body from being scraped by the spinning button. And wear safety glasses!
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Last edited by Foamy : 03-23-2007 at 01:21 PM.
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03-23-2007, 02:11 PM
|  | Registered User Endorsing artist: Musicman basses, Hipshot products | | Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: New York City | | | My musicstore guy (Mike Maggion from Maggio Music in Bklyn, a place Nino Valenti used to work) had a screwdriver that did the trick with no problem. I was busy checking out Jay Turser basses while he was doing it so I don't even know exactly what what went on - but it's fixed - and I gotta say that Jay Turser basses really give SXes a run for the money. I played an SX MM that I don't believe they make any more, and the Turser just now and I think the Turser kicked butt on the SX. For whatever that's worth. | 
03-24-2007, 01:01 AM
| | Registered User Endorsing: Ampeg | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Apopka, FL | | | Be like me...get one of each!
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03-24-2007, 06:14 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Atlanta | | | First off. When you use straplocks. Always use the screw that came with the guitar. Thats what ive learned. When I played guitar i did the exact thing that happend to you. | 
03-24-2007, 07:32 AM
| | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: WI | | | I used the screws that came with my Schaller set, everythings fine. I didn't have to toothpick the hole either since my bass is a newer (2005) Fender, they made the screws the same size now. | 
03-24-2007, 09:42 AM
| | Registered User Builder and Owner: DJ Ash Guitars | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Dallas, north Texas | | | For future reference, when it starts to get tight with that much screw left, remove the screw and drill the hole deeper. You can get away without a pilot hole in particle board, but not hardwoods. Stripping the head of the screw was the best of the possible scenarios.
Gun shops sell screw removers that are like EZ outs as well, some of them in smaller sizes that might work. It's worth a phone call. | 
03-26-2007, 06:50 PM
|  | just a BassGuy! Endorsing Joiner & Ben Lindsey Basses - Maker: XB Custom Cables | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Twin Cities, MN | | | I agree with Scott in Dallas...
In addition to drilling the pilot hole to a proper depth - lubricate the screw (a little bar soap in the threads) and use the proper size Phillips driver that is in good condition.
Try to maintain a solid end-load on the driver during installation.
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03-26-2007, 07:46 PM
|  | Registered User Endorsing artist: Brubaker Guitars | | Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Gaithersburg, Md | | Quote:
Originally Posted by pointbass Well that's a drag Joe, I hope your guy can get it straighted out. The Dunlop straplocks all seem to have longer screws than the ones in the non-lock buttons. I usually just take a very small drill and extend the hole just a bit.
Yeah, that's definitely a drag .....  | I drill a proper sized hole and test fit the screw by itself before installing. I had an external button's screw snap off while trying too hard to screw it in before. No fun. With recessed, even less. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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