Straplocks

[fatsobasso]

post a link on those straplocks you use,RAY?

[Selta]

Originally Posted by fatsobasso

post a link on those straplocks you use,RAY?

Part AP_6583-001 from allparts.com

[ogrossman]

Originally Posted by Ray Salamon

I flushmount my straplocks. They're closer to the body than any buttons can dream to be...

Then I would suggest that you've fixed the problem that causes the screws to loosen.

[Selta]

Originally Posted by ogrossman

Then I would suggest that you've fixed the problem that causes the screws to loosen.

Actually, I didn't have that problem to do it. What got me to do it was Warwick. I saw how nice their basses looked with flushmounts on them. It's neat not having that button stick out. Does it make a big difference? No. But one I notice .

[PauperBoy]

Nothing like seeing your baby swinging away from you with only the tenuous grip of your index finger and thumb keeping it from swatting one of your fans square in the forehead.

I replaced the screws that came with the Schaller locks with 1/2" longer stainless steel screws, and a couple of drops of Chair Loc in the hole to swell the wood snug.

[Marley's Ghost]

Just removed my Schaller and glued in a toothpick with Elmer's Carpenter glue. Waiting till tomorrow to put the screw back in.

[iplaybassguitar]

Originally Posted by Ampeg SVT

i need to do this as my schallers ripped out of my stingray...wow never buying scallers again...dunlop is the way to go for me

i wouldnt say this is a schaller problem, id just assume that the schaller screws were too small for the holes currently in your bass...the toothpick trick wouldve taken care of that.

[Marley's Ghost]

Originally Posted by iplaybassguitar

i wouldnt say this is a schaller problem, id just assume that the schaller screws were too small for the holes currently in your bass...the toothpick trick wouldve taken care of that.

It did for me. Just put my Schaller back in and it is set like concrete.

[guy n. cognito]

Originally Posted by tbrannon

was that at a band camp by any chance?

I think you probably got lucky on that one- letting the glue dry would seem to be an integral part of the process.

It is, but standard wood glue dries in a few hours. Besides, the pressure of the screws keeps everything in place.

[Ian Perge]

Originally Posted by Ray Salamon

I flushmount my straplocks. They're closer to the body than any buttons can dream to be...

I've always wanted to do this as well, as I'm also a big fan of the über-clean look as well as taking out the "ripping screw from body wood" factor out of the Strap Lock equation and pretty much leaving it up to pure mechanical failure on the locking mechanism (not that I've had a single Dunlop StrapLok fail on me in 17 years and 6 basses ).

Can I ask what your personal trick is to installing them in a bass that's already been clear-coated? Do you simply go very slow with an electric drill to avoid cracking the poly, or is there something more technical (or easy) that I'm missing?

[Techmonkey]

I personally have the best luck with matchsticks, and without using any glue. When I've had to do this in the past it's usually been to one of my bandmate's guitars and right in the middle of our set - haven't had much time or resources to glue anything anywhere. I just keep a few matchstick ends in my gigbag and a screwdriver.

I've never had a problem yet, although reading this thread is making me a bit sick in the stomach.

Oh well... if it falls, it falls. I always hold my basses firmly by the neck, it's not the end of the world if the body dents, as long as the thing stays in one piece

[Shroom]

I know this is an old thread, but could anyone answer this question for me?: After you have your toothpicks trimmed and your glue dried, do you just screw right in, or do you drill a new hole?

[Turock]

Screw them right in to the same hole.

[Brad Johnson]

Originally Posted by vindy500

do you guys wait with your tooth picks, i just screw mine in straight away....

Me too. usually don't use glue either.

[202dy]

Originally Posted by Ian Perge

I've always wanted to do this as well, as I'm also a big fan of the über-clean look as well as taking out the "ripping screw from body wood" factor out of the Strap Lock equation and pretty much leaving it up to pure mechanical failure on the locking mechanism (not that I've had a single Dunlop StrapLok fail on me in 17 years and 6 basses ).

Can I ask what your personal trick is to installing them in a bass that's already been clear-coated? Do you simply go very slow with an electric drill to avoid cracking the poly, or is there something more technical (or easy) that I'm missing?

This is a bit time consuming but the safest way is to overbore the hole repeatedly. Start with a drill bit that is just a bit larger. Rebore the hole. Then move up another step.

Lather, rinse, repeat.

Some caveats:

When stepping up drill bit sizes, care should be taken to make small steps, not more than a thirty second of an inch. A sixty-fourth per increase is even better. Riffler files can be used to thin the finish over the existing hole to thin the finish to minimize the risk of cracking.

A cone shaped stone bit like those sold by Dremel or virtually every machine shop supplier can be used to thin the surface without fear of cracking the finish. Simply use the existing hole to pilot the grinding surface into the finish. This procedure will have to be repeated as the hole becomes larger and discontinued prior to achieving maximum diameter.

If the guitar is immobilized accuracy will be easier to achieve.
The body should be chucked up in a padded vise. This allows two hands to be used on the drill. Electric or hand driven drills can be used.

[Ian Perge]

Gracias, 202dy. Unfortunately I don't have the physical equipment to do so on my own (Apartment-dwellers ) but perhaps when I visit my folks or Grandparents I'll bring my basses to convert to flush-mount.

[Brad Johnson]

Originally Posted by ogrossman

The repair guy that I take my basses to (also a bass player) says he doesn't use straplocs anymore because the screws are always coming loose. I think it's because the strap pulls on the screw so far away from the bass body (about 1/2 inch for Schallers and 3/4 inch for Dunlops). He convinced me to go to a strap button with "wings" to prevent the strap from slipping off. I never disconnect the straplocs anyway so it won't make any differnce to me (except the screws won't come loose anymore )

If a repair guy can't figure out how to keep a straplock installed....

Ask him how he gets a strap button screw to stay in but can't get a straplock screw to stay put.


They're both screws.

[lonotes]

Originally Posted by Brad Johnson

If a repair guy can't figure out how to keep a straplock installed....

Ask him how he gets a strap button screw to stay in but can't get a straplock screw to stay put.


They're both screws.

Something's screwed alright.