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09-15-2011, 01:34 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Succasunna, NJ | | | String buzz on my Stingray; should I remove factory shim?
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I'm having trouble setting up one of my Stingray 4 basses. For the life of me, I cannot get the strings to stop buzzing (Frets 1 - 5) and have the action, at the lowest, at factory specs. I'm usually pretty good with doing my own setups. I've set up my other stingrays without a problem. But this one is giving me a problem. Could removing the factory shim possible help? | 
09-15-2011, 01:45 PM
| | | | There are a number of reasons that the instrument buzzes at the lower frets. More data is needed to make a recommendation. Please measure the string heights on the bass and treble sides of the neck (usually expressed in 64ths of an inch) at the twelfth fret and relief (usually expressed in thousandths of an inch) at the seventh.
Shimming the neck changes the geometry of the instrument. Unless there is a compelling reason leave it alone. The OP does not support removal.
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09-15-2011, 01:50 PM
|  | Signed, Sealed, Delivered | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: NY & MA | | | Give us some history. How long have you had this instrument? Has it played in the past just fine and this is a new issue? Have you ever done a setup on this instrument before? | 
09-15-2011, 02:37 PM
| | Registered User I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Philthy I'm having trouble setting up one of my Stingray 4 basses. For the life of me, I cannot get the strings to stop buzzing (Frets 1 - 5) and have the action, at the lowest, at factory specs. I'm usually pretty good with doing my own setups. I've set up my other stingrays without a problem. But this one is giving me a problem. Could removing the factory shim possible help? | I would first loosen the trussrod slightly, to give the neck more relief.
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09-15-2011, 02:44 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Cleveland, TN | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JLS I would first loosen the trussrod slightly, to give the neck more relief. | +1
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09-16-2011, 09:28 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Oracle, Arizona | | | A productive approach to a problem generally is to determine whether the issue had been in existence since [i] owned in the instrument (or whatever). IF the problem had NOT always been displayed since I owned it, I determine - during that time frame, "what had changed"? That information is vital to giving you some depth and a starting point as to a remedy for the problem. Changing strings, altering the relief, adjusting saddles, etc - all can contribute. Even very subtle things can have an effect.
IF the Bass came with a shim that you know to be a factory shim I would certainly NOT remove it. If, however, you do not know it's history, that is another matter. If you know the history of the instrument from it's purchase to this point; you should be able to itemize those possible issues that impacted the problem.
A classic example is changing strings (thinner R/W type) that exert less tension on the neck so that while at a certain Truss-rod tension the nut & neck relief brings the strings over the 1st few frets, strings with less tensions do not provide that. Therefore lessening the tension allows those strings to be elevated enough to not buzz. However, change those strings to another design and there will again exert the original tension. on occasion a very flexible neck may have need of extremely careful truss-rod alteration so that the problem does not show itself at the lower end (rather than the upper). In instances such as that a near total flat neck may be better suited. But in principal, the important thing is to find what initiated the problem to begin with so that you have control over the issue.
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Last edited by john grey : 09-16-2011 at 09:47 AM.
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09-16-2011, 12:25 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sac Area | | | Does the string buzz come through the amp? Or do you only hear it when playing unplugged? Be honest now....
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09-16-2011, 12:26 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: D'Shaw | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JLS I would first loosen the trussrod slightly, to give the neck more relief. | +2
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09-16-2011, 01:57 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2005 Location: Loughborough, UK | | Quote:
Originally Posted by mongo2 +2 | +3 | 
09-16-2011, 02:01 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Brookfield, CT | | Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffByrne +3 | +4
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09-16-2011, 02:08 PM
| | | | From the EBMM Site FAQ ...
If fret buzz occurs from the open to the fifth fret, the neck needs more relief. If it buzzes between the 5th fret and the 12th fret, the neck needs to be straighter (turn the wheel slightly clockwise). If it occurs all over the neck, the string height need to increase (by turning the trussrod wheel slightly counter-clockwise). | 
09-16-2011, 02:51 PM
|  | <---Shinola Shite--^ | | Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Manitoba, Canada | | ^ -1 Quote: |
Originally Posted by dmusic148
+4 | +5
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