String Height Diffrent Per Each String ???

[The modifier]

I was just wondering, ive seen lots of contradictions on this in many online set up guides, some guides state that each string should be the same exact height of the fret board IE if the E string is say 2mm in height then all the others strings are to be set up at 2mm, other guides state that the D and the G strings should be set up 1mm lower than the E and the A , so which makes more sense to you guys

[StyleOverShow]

Each instrument has a range of action and you get used to it. I like my action a little higher on fretted instruments so I can attack the strings a little harder (spanked my MM Sterling pickup so hard the set screw came loose last weekend).

So, I think it depends on the string gauge, your likes, and the instruments fretting, bridge and nut.

-richard

[GlennW]

I usually set mine up (unfretted, no capo) with between 3/32" and 4/32" at the 17th fret as a starting point. I like them so they feel like they take the same amount of pressure to play.

[Jaco who?]

I set mine up by measuring the height under each string so that it follows the radius of the fretboard. This could be hugely controversial for some goofy reason though, so set the height any way you want.

[The modifier]

Originally Posted by Jaco who?

I set mine up by measuring the height under each string so that it follows the radius of the fretboard. This could be hugely controversial for some goofy reason though, so set the height any way you want.

I also use your type of set up method, however as I mentioned, I recently viewed some set up guides which state that the D and the G strings should generally be set up lower than the E and the A, which seems awkward to me.

[GlennW]

They might suggest the E and A a little higher to prevent fret buzz with very low action. I'd rather have everything so it feels consistant across the 'board even if the D and G could be lower. Otherwise it's like walking around in one shoe.

[Turnaround]

Most of the high-end manufacturers recommend a "graduated" clearance on the strings, with the least on the G string and the most on the E. The reason for this is that the thicker strings vibrate in a larger arc than the thinner ones with the same plucking force due to the increased mass. Since the fatter strings tend to vibrate with a larger amplitude they require a bit more clearance between string and fret.

I tend to agree with them, but if a constant clearance works for you go for it. It's all about playing, not theory.

[Tehrin Cole]

Different players like to feel different things,under our hands.Some,like myself,prefer a low action,while others prefer a higher action,...none of which is"wrong",per se,...just different.I've played other cats' instruments where,the strings were all at,different,and staggered heights,as well as different gauges.This felt weird,under MY hands,but it seemed to work well for these cats.Guidelines are just that,...GUIDELINES!These are merely suggestions as to a,potentially optlmal set-up,....which again,is not"wrong"or"right",if you will,but a suggestion.It depends on the type of music,you play,...the gauge of string you use,...the type of string,you use(roundwound,flatwound,tapewound,etc.),your playing "styles", the size of your hands,...etc.My advice to you is to,start with some of these guidelines,and experiment until you find what's comfortable for you.As I've previously stated,different players,like to feel different things,under our hands.

[Zooberwerx]

Originally Posted by Turnaround

Most of the high-end manufacturers recommend a "graduated" clearance on the strings, with the least on the G string and the most on the E. The reason for this is that the thicker strings vibrate in a larger arc than the thinner ones with the same plucking force due to the increased mass. Since the fatter strings tend to vibrate with a larger amplitude they require a bit more clearance between string and fret.

I tend to agree with them, but if a constant clearance works for you go for it. It's all about playing, not theory.

+1. I tend to go about this in a backwards fashion. I set each string's height just above the buzz threshold. Invariably, the G string ends up at 1/16" (12th fret), the B measures out at 3/32", and the D, A, E demonstrate small incremental increases between the two. All bets are off if the relief is not set correctly.

Riis

[Basstovsky]

Originally Posted by Zooberwerx

+1. I tend to go about this in a backwards fashion. I set each string's height just above the buzz threshold. Invariably, the G string ends up at 1/16" (12th fret), the B measures out at 3/32", and the D, A, E demonstrate small incremental increases between the two. All bets are off if the relief is not set correctly.

Riis

This.

A little trial and error will take longer (finding @ what height the buzz stops with your playing style) but the result is the action best suited for you. I use this method, but my action is higher because I dig in a lot when i play.

[JTE]

The bigger strings have a wider arc when played. So, I tend to have my lower strings higher off the fingerboard a touch rather than the same height across the neck. Same thing on fretted, fretless, four strings, the fiver, and the guitars.

jte

[megadan]

I think what the guides are getting at, OP, is that different necks have different radius' (radii?). That's the curve of of the neck on the fretboard, making the neck 'higher' on the A and D strings. So sometimes those strings will be higher to follow the curve of the neck.

Sometimes the E is higher than the G because it's a thicker string and needs more room to vibrate, as well.

[Turnaround]

Originally Posted by megadan

I think what the guides are getting at, OP, is that different necks have different radius' (radii?). That's the curve of of the neck on the fretboard, making the neck 'higher' on the A and D strings. So sometimes those strings will be higher to follow the curve of the neck.

This brings up the point about what is meant by "higher". If your measure the height relative to the other strings, then any fingerboard that is radiused (not flat) will need to have the middle strings "higher" than the outside ones.

But generally string height is measured from the top of a fret to the underside of the string - for each string. So an even setting would be 3/32" gap on all strings regardless of the fingerboard radius. Than means that a 4-string fingerboard with a 7.25" radius will have significantly higher D and A strings than one with a 20" radius - relative string-to-string, even with the same clearance from fret to string. But because of the difference in thickness of strings, the E string may feel or appear to be "higher" than the G string.

Hope I didn't lose you on that. In the end, all the physics and theory is of little consequence when the bass plays the way you want it to. It could deviate from theory by a mile and be just the way you like it. (Anybody remember the comment that Thelonius Monk's playing was 'incorrect'?)

It's not a simple rule. That's why there are manufacturers' recommendations. They are a starting point so you know you are in the right ballpark from the get-go. Then you adjust to suit yourself.

[lowtide]

Originally Posted by The modifier

I also use your type of set up method, however as I mentioned, I recently viewed some set up guides which state that the D and the G strings should generally be set up lower than the E and the A, which seems awkward to me.

E and A vibrate in a larger arc than the D and G, hence the differences in action for all strings. E and A are always a higher action than others (except low b)

Toss the ruler; you'll only drive yourself bonkers. Get to know how to do it and what's going on and you do it without thinking after a while. It varies with type of string material composition and diameters, which varies tension and . . . ad nauseum . . . weather changes too . . .

[varunkapahi]

i think you really should refer here http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass...tupmanual.html
this is the best i have ever read