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  #1  
Old 04-12-2007, 04:45 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Chicago
Arrow String Tree (stripped hole) Question

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I recently bought a used (70's?) Fender p-bass and it came time to replace the strings. After doing so, I began getting a buzz above the nut on my open low E which is only silenced by applying pressure up there with my finger. There is a string tree holding down the E&A strings, and thought tightening/lowering this could help solve the buzz.

Nearly the instant i began turning the screw, the entire tree fell off due to the hole being stripped. I realize this could be somewhat my fault because there is a washer/stopper (for lack of a better term?) that limits how low the tree can go.

For the time being i removed the washer and screwed the tree back in to keep some pressure on the strings and hopefully avoid tension issues if they could arise from this. The tree is not level obviously, but it's holding and good for now...

Basically, I'm looking for any insight on how to fix this...

-Should I try to fill the hole and re-drill? If so what's the best method for this on the headstock?

-Can screw the tree w/o the washer as far down as it will go, or would too much pressure at that point be bad.

Sorry I didnt mean for this to turn into an essay, but i wanted to give ya what i know... Which in this case is close to nothing hehe

Thanks!
  #2  
Old 04-12-2007, 05:17 PM
RSY RSY is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Austin, TX
You could fill it with some liquid wood and use the same screw, or just get a slightly bigger (diameter) screw, if the tree and washer will take one.

scott
  #3  
Old 04-13-2007, 09:04 AM
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No chance a larger screw will fit through the washer. I'll run out later for some filler and a new tree, GC has em for like $4.
Thanks RSY!

And my apologies, i now realize i may have been cryin over spilled milk. Unless someone else has somethin to add you can close this.
peace
  #4  
Old 04-13-2007, 09:13 AM
keb keb is offline
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For small stripped holes (pickguard screw holes, etc.) I stick a toothpick in the hole, break it off so it's flush with the surface, and screw away. Always seems to work for me.
  #5  
Old 04-13-2007, 09:30 AM
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Thanks Keb, I've done the toothpick method a number of times on previous basses especially on strap locks!

This is in the headstock tho where none of my other basses, mostly Ibanez, had string trees. That's the real reason I'm all wishy washy over this...
peace
  #6  
Old 04-13-2007, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSchpfmut View Post
Thanks Keb, I've done the toothpick method a number of times on previous basses especially on strap locks!

This is in the headstock tho where none of my other basses, mostly Ibanez, had string trees. That's the real reason I'm all wishy washy over this...
peace
Earlier Fender basses did not have a string retainer on the E and A strings. If the string is wound from the top of the peg to the bottom and is seated against the grommet the retainer is unnecessary.

Screwing the retainer as low as it will go will not hurt anything, per se, but care must be taken so that the string does not abrade the surface of the headstock.
  #7  
Old 04-13-2007, 01:07 PM
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Wow thanks a lot 202, after reading some of your other posts I see you've responded to similar cases as this (sorry i missed em before hehe) and you seem very knowledgable

I'm unfamiliar with the term grommet in relation to a bass, is this what you're referring to? (the flush piece of metal being removed in pic)


I'm fairly sure I have the windings of the string going down, but I'll reapply the E and make sure it's as low as possible coming from the peg. I see what you're saying about the lack of a second restraint, as you call it, on older fender basses. Heck, now that I've looked around online I don't see any with two!

Thanks again!

Last edited by MrSchpfmut : 04-13-2007 at 01:17 PM.
  #8  
Old 04-13-2007, 01:43 PM
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The grommet is some times referred to as a tuner bushing. It is the circular metal piece that lies next to the headstock. The peg is threaded through. Your image is correct.
  #9  
Old 04-13-2007, 03:47 PM
RSY RSY is offline
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Your tree is for the E and A??? You sure it's not the D and G?

scott
  #10  
Old 04-13-2007, 07:38 PM
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Hehe of course I'm sure RSY! Headstock... I play, i dont do setups especially Fenders lol Thanks for your suggestions!

202 I really appreciate your help as well! As you can see i've taken out the second tree and restrung the E & A, and it sounds much better. Since it seems the second tree is excessive, I'll leave it off for now as the bass is playing very well without it. I'l definately take more time on the next restring. Where can i send your check?

cheers!

Last edited by MrSchpfmut : 04-13-2007 at 07:42 PM.
  #11  
Old 04-14-2007, 09:04 AM
RSY RSY is offline
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Yeah, I'd leave it off for good, as well. That E-A tree makes no sense to me. Even on Strats, the tree is just on the high E and B strings.

It's all related to the fact that Fender necks are straight and have all keys on one side, making them relatively long for the smaller strings. As you know, the tree is thus needed to impart the proper angle off the nut. That's why most other axes have headstocks with a backward angle off the neck (Gibson, etc.).

scott

p.s. Nice socks.
  #12  
Old 04-14-2007, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSchpfmut View Post
Hehe of course I'm sure RSY! Headstock... I play, i dont do setups especially Fenders lol Thanks for your suggestions!

202 I really appreciate your help as well! As you can see i've taken out the second tree and restrung the E & A, and it sounds much better. Since it seems the second tree is excessive, I'll leave it off for now as the bass is playing very well without it. I'l definately take more time on the next restring. Where can i send your check?

cheers!
I seriously doubt you'll ever need that tree there. Go ahead and fill in that hole with wood filler, sand it (the filled hole) down to flush and apply polyurethane on top to seal it. You'll be good to go.
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