String tree thing popped off last night.

synterx · #1 10-15-2008, 09:34 AM

Peavey Millennium 5, US model. Bought here on TB. In new condition. I have an identical bass in another color. Was playing away last night at a practice, and I heard "boing" and my bass dropped a whole step. Thought a string popped or something. The left screw of the metal bar across the strings on the headstock flew out never to be found.

How important is this bar across the strings? Obviously it added a whole steps worth of tension. It looks weird without it though. When I bought it, the screws were screwed down way farther than my other bass. So much so it looked silly, I'm guessing a 1/4" tops off the headstock flat. So I carefully raised it back up to be where my other, stock, bass was set.

So, my questions are:

1. Do I need one at all
2. Now that the hole in the wood is shot, should I try to have it repaired
3. Does it matter how far down the bar is screwed?

CapnSev · #2 10-15-2008, 09:54 AM

I had the same thing happen once with a Warmoth neck that I bought and setup. (As a side note, do not pre-drill the string-tree hole, just screw the thing in the wood.) It came flying off while I was playing and nailed somebody right in the chest and dropped them on the spot.

I used some wood glue (very small amount) in the hole to fill it in a little, and screwed the tree right back in. It never gave me a problem after that.

Another option would be to get a long screw that goes through the headstock, and put a nut on the other side ala Fender old school style.

EDIT: Yes, you will most likely need the string tree.

canshaker · #3 10-15-2008, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapnSev

(As a side note, do not pre-drill the string-tree hole, just screw the thing in the wood.)

Not a bad idea, as long as you don't mind the risk of cracking your headstock.

CapnSev · #4 10-15-2008, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by canshaker

Not a bad idea, as long as you don't mind the risk of cracking your headstock.

Use a pretty small bit then.

May I be released now officer?

atheos · #5 10-15-2008, 10:05 AM

The screw is usually so small that it most likely won't crack the headstock. But yes, just put it back if you find it or get a new one. You can just screw it back some 1/4" away from the previous hole, preferably closer to the tuning machines so that there won't be as much tension as there used to be. Not too far from the original hole though.

Sure you can play without it but you will lose tension from D and G string and they may jump out of the nut so it's good to have the "string tree thing" in place.

canshaker · #6 10-15-2008, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapnSev

Use a pretty small bit then.

May I be released now officer?

After you write on the chalk board "I will ALWAYS pre-drill in wood that I value" 100 times.

canshaker · #7 10-15-2008, 10:15 AM

The best thing to do is to stick a piece of wood in the hole. I realize it's small, so even a splinter will suffice. Re-screw the string tree into the same hole. It will help to dip the screw in a touch of wood glue. (Extra points if you dip the splinter in the glue first, as well.) The pressure from the screw will force the splinter to expand into the grooves of the previous hole and create a tight hold.

You do this same trick if you ever need to replace your strap holders.

Class dismissed.

CapnSev · #8 10-15-2008, 10:16 AM

^ Toothpicks and wood glue are the ultimate strap-button repair.

atheos · #9 10-15-2008, 10:20 AM

Okay, it has a lot to do with the instrument. On my 100 euro Harley Benton I wouldn't even dream of pre-drilling a hole. Or then I would drill it all the way through and put a screw with a nut there

Maybe with more expensive instrument I'd be more careful...

But then again, I've never seen a headstock crack from such a small screw. Hell, I've put tuning machines in my GSR200 (maple neck) without any pre-drilled holes, one screw per tuner. It has been totally fine for 3 years now.

synterx · #10 10-15-2008, 10:23 AM

I sure wish I had the screw still. Now I have to go on a hunt for a small black screw. I'm a stickler for details, so I will not be happy sticking any old screw in there. I will try the toothpick/woodglue trick. I don't care if it ever comes out, I can't think of a reason why it would need too.

I'm curious why some basses use a tree, and others don't. My Cirrus basses don't use them.

fretlessman71 · #11 10-15-2008, 10:29 AM

Some basses - like Fenders - have a headstock that is parallel to the fingerboard. This means that the string angle from each peg to the nut is slightly different; the farther away the peg, the less angle, and therefore the greater possibility that the string will jump out of the nut when the open string is played. To solve this, Leo Fender came up with a guide that held the strings down near the A string to make the angle more consistent.

Later, bass makers started making basses with an angled headstock (Ibanez does this) that ensures that the angle of the string from the peg to the nut will be sufficient to keep the string down without a tree. This also contributes to the tone of the open string; it's the same as making sure you're pressing hard enough on a fretted note so it doesn't buzz.

Fenders still tend to suffer from some A string rattling from time to time; this is why I make sure I get my A string to wrap around the peg 4-5 times and have the string come off the bottom to ensure that I get a good angle.

synterx · #12 10-15-2008, 10:32 AM

Makes sense. The Cirrus basses do have angled headstocks, the Millenniums are parallel to the fretboard.

CapnSev · #13 10-15-2008, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synterx

I'm curious why some basses use a tree, and others don't. My Cirrus basses don't use them.

It keeps tension on the strings. Your Cirrus doesn't need it because it's a 2+2 angled headstock. It either needs to be angled or have a tree in there somewhere. There are a few exceptions though.

canshaker · #14 10-15-2008, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atheos

I've never seen a headstock crack from such a small screw. Hell, I've put tuning machines in my GSR200 (maple neck) without any pre-drilled holes, one screw per tuner. It has been totally fine for 3 years now.

I wasn't really implying that it WILL crack without pre-drilling.
It's just better to be safe than sorry.
If it doesn't crack...

If it DOES...

cb56 · #15 10-15-2008, 08:29 PM

Hey synterx,
try going over to the Peavey bass forum and ask about a replacement screw. They regularly have customer service people monitor the forum and they are real helpful. Even though that's a discontinued bass, they still might be able to help you out.
http://forums.peavey.com/