| Many issues with converting a new nut appear to form around the support cut. Ideally the nut must not be cut as a deep "holding" nut pattern, but an open "supporting" pattern. By that I mean that the cuts should wedge and not form a "U" shape for the string. This also allows the nut to support many different sizes of string, where a "U" cut is limiting as to size upward.
When starting, make your radius shape and length cuts first and (ideally) have string examples (not only sizes) available. Bring the angle of the BACK of the nut (the side the tuners are on; not the fret-board); this will allow the string to drop sharper whether or not a string tree is available. Angle the tuner side to less than 45 degrees; just a slope, leave plenty of material for support. Do not angle the fret side of the nut to any deep degree, just remove the edge. Buff the corners and place within the nut slot. Make TWO marking cuts for each string so as to measure between them for your spacing. Continue as usual.
Use a 120 to start for a "B". It's small enough to sound without serious flopping. There IS an issue of how much tension a 4 string can provide for. Keeping the string at 120 to begin is a safe way to start. 130 may simply be to thick without it being way high off the board (but it might work...start slow). The angle cut method of designing a nut described above is "flexible" to many differing sizes of string. A "U" shape is very limiting.
Last edited by john grey : 06-17-2011 at 10:22 AM.
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