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06-28-2007, 10:26 AM
| | | | Strings making unwanted noise
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My 6 stringer's B string just seems to rattle a lot when I play on that string and make it hard to get real sounds instead of just a rattling noise. It's really annoying, is there anything I can do to fix it? |
06-28-2007, 12:02 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Somewhere in the maritimes. | | | more specific info would definitely help, but maybe there isn't enough tension on your B-string? it seems to be a common problem on 5&6ers.
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06-28-2007, 12:06 PM
| | | | It rattles when I play it either way, on a fret or just the open string. The strings aren't more then a month old. It almost looks like its rattling against the frets when I play it, but it's also floppy and does look like more tension would work, but I'm not sure |
06-28-2007, 12:44 PM
| | | | The bass is a Schecter Stiletto custom 6, and I'm new to this stuff, don't know how to measure relief. But I'll check the sticky. |
06-28-2007, 01:25 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Palm Beach | | | My 4 string is doing the same thing, Quite annoying isn't it? |
06-28-2007, 03:26 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: north of chicago | | | also, if the strings are new, you might have gotten a lighter guage and may need to adjust your bass/technique to suit them better
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06-28-2007, 05:08 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshua  Quick and dirty measuring:
1) Tune the bass to pitch
2) Capo the first fret
3) Fret where the neck meets the body
The string now becomes a straight edge under which relief can be measured. At the mid fret between items 1 & 2 above, (for a start) there should be about a business cards worth of space between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string.
Take a look and let us know, then we'll guide you further as needed... | There's almost enough room to get a business card under, but not quite enough |
06-28-2007, 07:22 PM
| | | | Alright I followed the steps and feel confident I can do it, but my bass has....2 truss rods. I'm guessing I should turn both in the same direction? |
06-28-2007, 09:13 PM
| | | | The side with the C string is fine, but the B has no relief at all, cant fit anything under it. I tried turning the truss rod counterclockwise, but when I try to remove the wrench, it just sticks and refuses to come out. It seems to lock into place after I turn the nut. |
06-28-2007, 10:10 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Gladstone, QLD, Australia | | Joshua will beat you to near death until you get your relief right....GET 'EM, JOSHUA! 
seriously, proper relief is very important...
on a related note...I was having some weird sympathetic rattling going on with my B-string on one of my basses (the only one WITH a B-string  )...anyway...I would press down on the string in front of the bridge, and the rattle would go for a few minutes...then come back....
I kept doing this for the longest time, until finally I got out my screw driver and put a half turn on the intonation screw...then I got out my trust 1.5mm allen key and tightened my saddle height screws...
problem solved....it no rattle no mo'.... |
06-29-2007, 08:59 AM
| | | | It's the wrench that came with the bass just for this, so I would think it's the right tool.
I would love to have a pro look at it too, but the only place around here is a crappy Guitar Center and I don't trust them after the last few incidents I had there. |
06-29-2007, 12:25 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by FrozenAngel It's the wrench that came with the bass just for this, so I would think it's the right tool.
I would love to have a pro look at it too, but the only place around here is a crappy Guitar Center and I don't trust them after the last few incidents I had there. | Sometimes Allen (hex) wrenchs will have an almost imperceptable burr on the business edge or at one of the points. They can lock up inside a brass truss rod nut and feel like it has been welded into place. Eliminating the problem is simple. The burr can be removed with some 220 grit wet or dry sandpaper. Lay the paper out on a flat surface and move the edge back and forth across the abrasive. Alternately, the paper can be gripped between thumb and forefinger and the leading edge is twisted or scrubbed by the abrasive. The former description is easier on the fingers. Either method will leave a slightly beveled edge that will no longer stick in the nut. |
06-29-2007, 01:10 PM
| | | | I've got the wrench out, I'm going to try the sandpaper idea, then if that doesn't work I'll look for someone who would be better suited doing this then me. |
07-01-2007, 07:06 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Gladstone, QLD, Australia | | | I have problems getting my allen key on and off a truss rod nut on one of my basses...
I don't believe it's the key , because I don't have issues on another bass with the same key ...but to make things easier, I am going to get out my dremel with the flat bottom wheel, and grind a very small bevel on each side of my key, to create a tapered end to facilitate "starting" the key into the nut. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | | 
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