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  #1  
Old 01-23-2010, 09:38 AM
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Stripped screws in jazz jack plate

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I've got a jazz bass with stripped screws the hold the jack plate. I'm familiar with the toothpick and glue method for fixing strap buttons, and I also found a thread on the plug cutter for fixing that, but what about the smaller holes for a jack plate? Maybe just some wood filler?

Thank you.
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  #2  
Old 01-23-2010, 09:41 AM
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I usually use the toothpick method.
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  #3  
Old 01-23-2010, 09:50 AM
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wood filler IMO wouldnt secure the jack well enough,
especially since you'd be plugging in and out often, it would wear out.

"tooth pick method" offers a little more security, and will last a bit longer.
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  #4  
Old 01-23-2010, 09:51 AM
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This advice works for me (& makes sense): since toothpick wood is usually softer/lower quality, get a bit of hardwood veneer (maple, cherry, etc.) and slice it up into small slivers...then the usual routine: dip a sliver in some wood glue, drop in the hole, repeat a few times. Let dry and then remount the plate.
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  #5  
Old 01-23-2010, 09:52 AM
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Wood filler can crumble - I'd use the toothpick or hardwood sliver and wood glue (not superglue, not Gorilla glue) fix.
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  #6  
Old 01-23-2010, 09:57 AM
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Ammended toothpick method:

Mix up some JB Weld or marine epoxy....a small amt is sufficient. Liberally coat the tapered end of a round toothpick (if a toothpick wasn't tapered, it would be a dowel...d'oh!). Insert in the screw hole and snip off the excess. Carefully wipe away any overflow with some mild solvent and rag. Allow to cure. Drill a small pilot hole with your Dremel (you do own a Dremel, don't you?) and properly-sized micro bit. Re-insert / thread screw.

This works 'cuz (a) the drill bit will follow the softer sacrificial toothpick and (b) cured JB Weld can be tapped, painted, whatever forming a permanent repair. I guarantee that bad boy will never strip out again. I've used the same method for strap pins, control cavity covers, even stripped screw holes in graphite epoxy necks.

Riis
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  #7  
Old 01-23-2010, 10:39 AM
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Oh, yes I do own a Dremel. I love that thing.

Did you know that it comes with a warning not to use it as a dental drill?

Anyway, thank you to all of you for the solutions. I appreciate it.

Off to Lowes.
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  #8  
Old 01-23-2010, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by smoothdave View Post
Oh, yes I do own a Dremel. I love that thing.

Did you know that it comes with a warning not to use it as a dental drill?
I have a running joke with my dentist, Dr. Leidy, about leaving the rat-race and moving to Guatemala with just a Dremel tool and a pair of pliers.

Keep us updated on the repairs.

Riis
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:02 AM
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Zoober, the more time s I read that procedure, the more sense it makes. +1.
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  #10  
Old 01-23-2010, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooberwerx View Post
Ammended toothpick method:

Mix up some JB Weld or marine epoxy....a small amt is sufficient. Liberally coat the tapered end of a round toothpick (if a toothpick wasn't tapered, it would be a dowel...d'oh!). Insert in the screw hole and snip off the excess. Carefully wipe away any overflow with some mild solvent and rag. Allow to cure. Drill a small pilot hole with your Dremel (you do own a Dremel, don't you?) and properly-sized micro bit. Re-insert / thread screw.

This works 'cuz (a) the drill bit will follow the softer sacrificial toothpick and (b) cured JB Weld can be tapped, painted, whatever forming a permanent repair. I guarantee that bad boy will never strip out again. I've used the same method for strap pins, control cavity covers, even stripped screw holes in graphite epoxy necks.

Riis
This works great.

I've also simply filled the holes with epoxy putty/dough. Let it set overnight, drill/screw, done.
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:21 AM
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I've stripped the holes on one of my Jazz bass' control plates a million times now.

The method that has been working for me so far is to fill the hole with baking soda, and then drip in some super-glue. (Make sure the glue fully saturates the powder.)
Once the glue has dried, re-drill the hole and put the screw back in.
  #12  
Old 01-23-2010, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Pilgrim View Post
Zoober, the more time s I read that procedure, the more sense it makes. +1.
It really does work although I would like to hear of situations where it doesn't hold up as promised. This procedure came about when a tuner anchor screw snapped off in a hollow graphite composite headstock. I didn't want to drill a second pilot hole as it would have thrown off the tuner's mounting axis. I was able to drill the remnant of the broken screw but it left a very shallow (the graphite is not that thick) channel which was beyond repair using the traditional toothpick / glue method. Instead, I placed a piece of tape on the inner aspect with some curved needle-nose hobby pliers to act as a dam and "backfilled" the abyss with marine epoxy (JB Weld works well, too) and re-drilled after the patch cured.

Keep in mind that the stress on most screws is lateral in nature.

Riis
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  #13  
Old 01-23-2010, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Zooberwerx View Post
It really does work although I would like to hear of situations where it doesn't hold up as promised.
I think line6man might be your ideal test case here.
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  #14  
Old 01-23-2010, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by smoothdave View Post
I think line6man might be your ideal test case here.
Yep....sounds like he's experiencing recurrent structural compromise.

Today's project at the Zooberwerx household: installing removable casters on the sub enclosures. I'm gonna put some sort of steering harness on each so I can jump on it whilst in the trailer, shove off down the ramp, and ride the things to the stage.
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  #15  
Old 01-23-2010, 05:46 PM
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You're lucky. I just spent 7 hours working on my wife's BMW that's been dead for a week - much of the day spent in a garage slowly warming from 35 to 55 degrees. But it's running like a watch now, and I'm heading up for a shower.
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  #16  
Old 01-23-2010, 10:46 PM
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You guys are killing me!

wooden toothpicks, slathered with wood glue, and crank the screw in while it's still wet!

That's how it's done in wood bodies; not epoxy, not superglue, none of that. wood glue and toothpicks, screw cranked in while still wet. fast, easy, and (more important) as strong as the original wood.
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  #17  
Old 01-23-2010, 11:22 PM
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Did you know that it comes with a warning not to use it as a dental drill?
They do call it "tooth carpentry," after all!
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  #18  
Old 01-24-2010, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by line6man View Post
I've stripped the holes on one of my Jazz bass' control plates a million times now.

The method that has been working for me so far is to fill the hole with baking soda, and then drip in some super-glue. (Make sure the glue fully saturates the powder.)
Once the glue has dried, re-drill the hole and put the screw back in.
That works too.

Baking soda, superglue, and ductape holds the universe together.
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  #19  
Old 01-24-2010, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mongo2 View Post
Baking soda, superglue, and ductape holds the universe together.
All of life's problems can be solved with WD40 and duct tape.

If it doesn't move... WD40.
If it isn't supposed to move... duct tape.
  #20  
Old 01-24-2010, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by mongo2 View Post
That works too.

Baking soda, superglue, and ductape holds the universe together.
Also...

Chewing gum, wire (baling or other), electrical ties, twist ties, vinyl electricians' tape, velcro, etc.

I did an on-site repair on Tim's Telecaster strap pin with super glue and a sandwich toothpick procurred from the bar. Project consideration: use the toothpick's tapered end, not the one with the colored cellophane tassle. I figured that if it keeps the rye bread from sliding off the top of a greasy Reuben, its more than adequate for a MIK guitar.

The Kentucky Headhunters did an endorsement for D'addario strings touting, not only their excellent performance on stage, but their durability when used to wire up a busted muffler for the long drive home.

^^ All good reasons to have me banished from the Hardware, Setup, and Repair forum.

Riis
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