Stripped Truss Rod

cassanova · #1 04-15-2006, 11:38 PM

I'm setting up a friends Squire P bass for her. I went to put the allen wrench in the truss rod to snap the neck, but the things stripped. I was able to make some adjustments to her, but the stripped rod is not allowing me to snap the neck any further.

What are my options here? Do I try a larger allen wrench or should I just call it quits? I was able to lower the action a good deal with what adjustments I was able to make, but its still about a 1/4 of a mile off the fretboard now. She wants it nice and low.

Trevorus · #2 04-16-2006, 12:00 AM

I would take the tension off of the neck, remove the nut and get a new one. Maybe add some washers in there to give the nut some more adjusting room.

cassanova · #3 04-16-2006, 03:02 AM

I dont quite know how to do that or where to even begin.

remo · #4 04-16-2006, 08:15 AM

buy a new neck on eBay... the old one is firewood.

62bass · #5 04-16-2006, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cassanova

I dont quite know how to do that or where to even begin.

Go to see your friendly repairman. Nuts are easy to replace and you don't know enough to attempt the job yourself without possible further damage.

Don't feel bad-some people are just not mechanically inclined.

62bass · #6 04-17-2006, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joshua

He simply doesn't know how to do it, much different than not being mechanically inclined. Not that he is mechanically inclined, we just haven't established that...

That said, it is indeed good advice to bring it to a pro for this operation if you don't know how to do it.

You're right. I jumped to a conclusion without adequate facts. Sorry about that.

When you don't know how to do something you can be all thumbs and make mistakes. It can be easy to damage the truss rod nut by using the wrong allen key. I've certainly damaged enough screws using the wrong screwdriver bit before I finally wized up and got the right tools.

Fortunately, it's a cheap fix as long as the threads aren't damaged. A tech will be able to remove the nut, replace it and give you the proper sized tool to do it yourself in the future.

cassanova · #7 04-17-2006, 10:33 AM

Yeah, I'm mechanically inclined. Ive done all the set ups on my own basses over the past 20 years. Just never had to remove a nut.

Its not my bass, so Im not buying a new neck, truss rod, or anything of the sort for it. This gals lucky I was nice enough to buy her strings for it to do the intonation.

I told her the truss rods stripped as soon as I found out. So what I did was put the allen wrench in there and tightend the neck as much and as best as I could to put some tention on the neck to lower the action. So now instead of the action being a mile off the board, its about 1/4 mile. Theres a noticable difference in how it plays and feels now, so hopefully, that'll do fine for her.

Chasarms · #8 04-17-2006, 11:01 AM

There is a tool out that is basically like a drill bit but it has reversed cutting threads on it. It's similar to a tap. It is designed to remove stripped screws and broken studs.

They are very easy to use and a whole set is about $12 or so at your friendly Home Depot. The larger ones are perfect for such a task. They'll bite right into the soft metal of a truss nut and back it right out. It's a pretty handy tool to have around.

A new truss nut is about $5.

Been there. Done that. It works well. Another trick is to use grinding compound. I know not everyone has some lying around, but if you do, just pack the truss nut with some before you attempt to back out the rod. The metal shavings in the compound fill in the void created by the stripped nut.

In either case, it helps to spring the neck a bit before you try to back off the nut.

cassanova · #9 04-17-2006, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chasarms

There is a tool out that is basically like a drill bit but it has reversed cutting threads on it. It's similar to a tap. It is designed to remove stripped screws and broken studs.

They are very easy to use and a whole set is about $12 or so at your friendly Home Depot. The larger ones are perfect for such a task. They'll bite right into the soft metal of a truss nut and back it right out. It's a pretty handy tool to have around.

A new truss nut is about $5.

Been there. Done that. It works well. Another trick is to use grinding compound. I know not everyone has some lying around, but if you do, just pack the truss nut with some before you attempt to back out the rod. The metal shavings in the compound fill in the void created by the stripped nut.

In either case, it helps to spring the neck a bit before you try to back off the nut.

So if I buy this tool, the truss rod will just slide right out and then all I'll have to do is drop in a new rod?

remo · #10 04-17-2006, 09:19 PM

It's called an "Easy Out" here

this is for removing a stripped bolt on a car but the procedure would be very similar for the truss nut.

http://www.crustyquinns.com/tech/easyout.html

Chasarms · #11 04-17-2006, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cassanova

So if I buy this tool, the truss rod will just slide right out and then all I'll have to do is drop in a new rod?

Nope. The rod stays in place. The nut just comes off the end of it. It really is a 5-minute repair.

62bass · #12 04-18-2006, 06:09 AM

If I may add to this-slack off the strings to take some tension off the truss rod when you do it. It'll go easier. You might want to add one or two washers before you put the new nut in place to give a bit of extra "purchase". The wood under the nut may have been compressed over time. I've done this on a number of old Fenders and it is a very easy job.

cassanova · #13 04-18-2006, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chasarms

Nope. The rod stays in place. The nut just comes off the end of it. It really is a 5-minute repair.

Oh, that just made the job a lot easier.

I think I should be able to do that.