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09-28-2011, 10:16 AM
| | | | Stuck truss rod
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Hi,
I just bought a IBANEZ AEB10E-DVS from ebay, it's in great condition except the action is way too high. I've tried adjusting the truss rod but it won't budge. I've given a pretty hard tug on the allen key but nothing. The next step would be to pretty much give the allen key a tap with a hammer but I'm not sure that would be a good idea, I don't want to break anything obviously.
Does anyone have any suggestions? Sanding the bridge down could be an option but obviously this isn't reversible and I wouldn't want to make bass unplayable on the first few frets.
Thanks,
Sam | 
09-28-2011, 10:21 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Brookfield, CT | | | Take the strings off. Put the allen key in the hole and flip the bass over in your lap, backside up. Next part is tricky and easier with another person: hold the body down and lift the headstock up toward you slightly, to put the neck into a back-bow. This removes stress from the truss rod. While holding it in this position, try to LOOSEN the truss rod nut, and remove it completely if possible. Then you can evaluate the problem- is it rusted, was it bottomed out, etc.
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09-28-2011, 11:55 AM
| | Registered User I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | | Does anyone have any suggestions? Yes--stop, right now, before you destroy the instrument!
Seriously, you are in, "Ready! Fire ! Aim!", mode, and need to get this bass to someone who knows what he or she is doing. "Give the allen key a tap with a hammer"?--I don't think so. Are you under the misapprehension that the trussrod, "lowers the action"?
There is, unfortunately, a good chance that the neckset is bad; normal setup adjustments are out the window, if this is the case. Good luck.
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Instrument repair/setup, Bay area
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09-28-2011, 12:05 PM
|  | <---Shinola Shite--^ | | Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Manitoba, Canada | | Fer the bazillionth time. Truss rods aren't for setting action. Get thee to a luthier and read more before doing a setup yourself. 
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'74ish Ampeg V4B, 115/210. * '75 Gibson G3. *Epi Tbird. *Squier: VM Jazz, CV 50's P. *Squier VM Jazz Assoc. *MBC 641. Squier owners club
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09-28-2011, 08:15 PM
|  | <---Shinola Shite--^ | | Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Manitoba, Canada | | Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusic148 Next part is tricky and easier with another person: hold the body down and lift the headstock up toward you slightly, to put the neck into a back-bow. This removes stress from the truss rod. While holding it in this position, try to LOOSEN the truss rod nut, and remove it completely if possible. Then you can evaluate the problem- is it rusted, was it bottomed out, etc. | Make sure it's dual action rod before you try such a thing. Even then it's questionable. I don't know about the Ibanez the OP has, but this needs to be said. Newbies all the world over may try this with little knowledge and destroy their necks.
OK, unless it's a dual action rod never and I mean never, force a neck into back bow with the truss nut under tension on a conventional rod neck! The neck is already bowed forward and pulling that back adds more stress on the rod and nut seat! If your rod doesn't break, the wood the nut seats on may compress and you may loose room for tightening the rod.
Think about it, the rod is pulling neck forward, to move to backbow the rod has to extend "over the hump" at flat to back bow.= undue stress!
With a conventional rod, since there is already fore bow in the neck, put the tail of the bass on the floor, put a knee at the base of the neck, your foot at the back of the body, your hand on the back of the neck at the nut and gently apply pressure FORWARD. This relieves the pressure on the nut.
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'74ish Ampeg V4B, 115/210. * '75 Gibson G3. *Epi Tbird. *Squier: VM Jazz, CV 50's P. *Squier VM Jazz Assoc. *MBC 641. Squier owners club
Last edited by 96tbird : 09-28-2011 at 08:21 PM.
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