Swapping the necks on 2 p basses

[packhowitzer]

Ok. I have never taken the neck off of a playable instrument before. I have a 09 Highway One pbass and a brand new '70s pbass. I'd like to swap the necks.

I don't have specs on the H1, but my calipers tell me they are very similar in size as far as the pocket is concerned (differences on the scale of .001) Both necks are "modern c" shape with 20 frets and a 1.625" nut.

The H1 was only offered with a rosewood FB and that always kinda bugged me as I am a maple guy all the way (flame on if you must rosewood guys). However, the '70s p I got has a 3TSB finish that would look amazing with a rosewood board (and a tort PG and ashtrays and flats). Plus my black H1 with black PG would now match my Geddy Lee with black PG (both would have BAIIs and maple B&B necks).

Sorry for the fashion rant, but I've never had a chance to have "matching" basses before and I'd like to give it a go.

Ok backstory is out of the way. What do I need to do to minimize the stress on these instruments as I swap the necks? Is it even a good idea? I've read here that it is better to replace a neck with one that isn't pre-drilled so that the new neck can be perfectly aligned with the holes. All of my measurements tell me that these necks and pockets are VERY similar, but I know that it doesn't take much to throw things out of whack. I've got two very playable instruments now, I don't want to mess that up just for cosmetic appeal.

If you guys think it's worth me undertaking this endeavor, are there anythings I need to be mindful of? How tight should I tighten the neckbolts for example? I don't want them loose, but I don't want to mar the wood or damage the threads.

I'm not a luthier obviously, but I have worked at a custom metal fabricator and as an electrician. I feel very confident with most tools, and I can follow instruction pretty well as long as the steps are laid out. But basses are organic things made out of wood and even though they have many steps that are performed by machinery, the final setup is done by a human- making no two instruments alike.

All that being said, what are my chances? Thanks guys!

[mongo2]

In about the time it took to read your post I would have had the necks swapped already.

[packhowitzer]

Originally Posted by mongo2

In about the time it took to read your post I would have had the necks swapped already.

Sooooo.... not that big of a deal I gather?

[AmadeusXeno]

I'd give it a try. If the screws for the neck don't line up correctly just put them back. If it doesn't work you can always buy another neck later on so you can have your maple fretboard on that bass.

[georgestrings]

Originally Posted by packhowitzer

Sooooo.... not that big of a deal I gather?

Nope - straight up swap... about the only adjustment you'll potentially have to make is to shift the neck in the pocket to center the strings on the neck, then tighten it down... I also like to put *some* string tension on the neck before completely tightening the neck screws, to seat the neck's heel more firmly into the pocket...


- georgestrings

[packhowitzer]

Originally Posted by georgestrings

Nope - straight up swap... about the only adjustment you'll potentially have to make is to shift the neck in the pocket to center the strings on the neck, then tighten it down... I also like to put *some* string tension on the neck before completely tightening the neck screws, to seat the neck's heel more firmly into the pocket...


- georgestrings

Thanks georgestrings. That's just the kind of stuff I needed to know. Thanks everybody else too!

[Ric5]

Originally Posted by packhowitzer

Sooooo.... not that big of a deal I gather?

If you can work a screw driver then you can do it.

[mongo2]

Originally Posted by Ric5

If you can work a screw driver then you can do it.

Righty tighty, lefty loosey...I think I got that right.

[Mickey Mao]

One tip--- don't over tighten the screws. They don't need to be cranked down super tight, and you could crack the finish at the pocket corners. Just get them snug enough so the neck is solid and doesn't shift.

[packhowitzer]

Originally Posted by Mickey Mao

One tip--- don't over tighten the screws. They don't need to be cranked down super tight, and you could crack the finish at the pocket corners. Just get them snug enough so the neck is solid and doesn't shift.

Thanks Mickey Mao. Yeah I'm aware that it's just about turning a screwdriver. But I just wanted to know if there was anything more than meets the eye about it. Not overtightening the screws is the kind of stuff I was wondering about.

Anything else?

[krovx]

It makes it easier sometimes to use a clamp (use something as padding so the clamp doesn't mark up the body and neck) then you are free to use your hands to gently screw in the neck screws. I usually try to work them all in slowly a few twists a piece instead of one at a time if that makes sense.

[packhowitzer]

Here is the finished product. The Highway 1 has a nitro finish. I am partial to the gloss finishes of the Geddy Lee and the '70s P. The Geddy Lee has Hipshot tuners and string retainer and a Pickguard Heaven PG and a stellartone tone styler for the tone knob. The Black P also has the hipshot string retainer. The SB P has a 2-string hipshot retainer and a Groove Tubes Fatfinger to help combat a little dead spot on the first string (plus it looks cool) The SB P will eventually have a tort pickguard and ashtrays and chromes. Thanks for everybody's help today. The basses sound and feel great and I just need to make few intonation adjustments and everything will be back to normal. Comments and questions welcome!

[AmadeusXeno]

Glad the neck swap worked well for you man. Keep on rockin!

[georgestrings]

Yeah, they look good, OP... I just got done building a "frankenbass" out of a MIM Jazz neck, and a P Bass Special body - and have done a few other builds... You could say I know a little about it...


- georgestrings