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12-12-2010, 02:18 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Ventura County, CA | | | Switch from through body to bridge stringing, do I need a new set up?
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Hello all,
If I usually have my G&L L-2500 set up to have the strings through body, would I need to get my bass re-set up if I wanted to just string through the bridge? I"d be using all the same string gauges and tunings. Thanks. | 
12-12-2010, 02:21 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Richmond Hill, GA | | | I do it all the time on my basses and Ive never had a problem, so I'm going to go with "no".
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12-12-2010, 02:22 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: IL | | | I agree with Justin... I have done it and other than string length there shouldnt be an issue
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hmmmm....
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12-12-2010, 02:59 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Canada eh | | | Don't string your L-2500 bridge only!
There is a known flaw with these basses: The 2500 bridge is only held down with two screws and there have been a few TB'ers who have had them pull out of the body. It will most likely be fine but why take the risk? Stringing through the body takes all the tension off of the two screws. There was a TB'er (might have been Ken Baker) who used bolts with long cylindrical nuts to bolt the bridge down using the string through holes so that bridge stringing could safely be used.
As far as setup goes, there wouldn't be any change in string tension so the setup would remain the same (as long as the bridge remains attached)..... | 
12-12-2010, 03:35 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Yorkshire, England, UK | | It was Ken Baker who did a bolt down bridge mod. It does not require any modifications to the bass so it is completely reversible if you so wish.
Here is a link to it. http://www.bassesbyleo.com/l2500_bridge_mod.html
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12-12-2010, 03:48 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | That is one VERY slick mod!
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12-12-2010, 04:07 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Richmond Hill, GA | | | Wow, I didnt know they manufactured their bridges like that. seems like such an easy fix to do at the factory too. Yeah do that mod for your G&L if you want to string through bridge.
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12-12-2010, 06:55 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Canada eh | | Quote:
Originally Posted by delta7fred | Nice digging! | 
12-12-2010, 06:56 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Ventura County, CA | | | Thanks for the advice, and the link for the mod. Looks like I'm putting GHS boomers through bridge. | 
12-13-2010, 12:58 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Finland (Northern Europe) | | Hi. Quote:
Originally Posted by delta7fred | That's a GREAT fix.
Prevents one from losing the ferrules also.
Regards
Sam | 
12-13-2010, 02:23 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Yorkshire, England, UK | | Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bird Hi.
That's a GREAT fix.
Prevents one from losing the ferrules also.
Regards
Sam | I had never given that a thought.
Before I did the mod the ferrules were slightly proud of the body, after they were all flush or very slightly recessed. Just shows they were not properly seated.
The good thing about doing the mod is that you can use any strings you choose, you don't have to go for a long set
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12-13-2010, 07:59 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central Illinois, USA | | | Wow, I don't have a G&L, but what an elegant, simple, and beautiful solution!
John
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12-13-2010, 08:04 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by delta7fred | I did this mod on my L2500 before it was stolen. Problem solved and it was restricted to top-load-only. But it sounded a little more solid when top-loaded with the bolts in it anyway and stayed in tune better as well.
This is a nasty defect in the way the L2500 is made, IMO. I think the factory should either drill new holes in the bridge to add some additional hold-down screws, or just eliminate the through-body option and put screws in the existing holes to begin with.
But IMO, the bolt mod is the first thing you should do to an L2500 when you pull it out of the case for the first time...
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