Is There A Brass P-Bridge?

[SurferJoe46]

Does anyone know of a brass P-bridge?

Not for the color - although that would be good too, but for the mass.

Even chrome-plated brass would be nice since the rest of the gear on my P/A Squier is chromed.

I just want the mass of a heavier bridge - because - well, I think it would be a good thing.

This might take out a dead note I have.

[62bass]

I owned a P that I bought new in 77 or so. It was okay. Typical P from that era. Rather dull and lifeless sound compared to some others I had owned. Back then there were no replacement bridges easy to find. I had the idea that more mass would help. So I had a local luthier with metalworking skills make me a very heavy brass one. This one was heavy and had a 3/4" brass sustain plate sunk into the body underneath.

There was only a very slight difference in sound with the roundwounds I was using at the time. Not really an improvement but a slight evening out of response over different frequencies. The increase in weight and the cost wasn't worth it to me. But I was stuck with it because to remove and plug the recess for the sustain block would have been a pain and costly. Without a sustain block it would be less expensive.

I myself don't think switching to a high mass bridge is any improvement.

[SurferJoe46]

Originally Posted by 62bass

I owned a P that I bought new in 77 or so. It was okay. Typical P from that era. Rather dull and lifeless sound compared to some others I had owned. Back then there were no replacement bridges easy to find. I had the idea that more mass would help. So I had a local luthier with metalworking skills make me a very heavy brass one. This one was heavy and had a 3/4" brass sustain plate sunk into the body underneath.

There was only a very slight difference in sound with the roundwounds I was using at the time. Not really an improvement but a slight evening out of response over different frequencies. The increase in weight and the cost wasn't worth it to me. But I was stuck with it because to remove and plug the recess for the sustain block would have been a pain and costly. Without a sustain block it would be less expensive.

I myself don't think switching to a high mass bridge is any improvement.

Prolly so - the lack of any discernible volume or sustain I can readily understand - but what about the famous Fender Dead Notes on the scale?

Is there any corollary to using a heavy bridge and ramping up the dead notes?

Just an idea.

[62bass]

Originally Posted by SurferJoe46

Prolly so - the lack of any discernible volume or sustain I can readily understand - but what about the famous Fender Dead Notes on the scale?

Is there any corollary to using a heavy bridge and ramping up the dead notes?

Just an idea.

Yes, the infamous dead note. Mine had one at the usual C# spot. Not severe but noticeable. The bridge change didn't change anything. Still there-no louder or quieter and at the same pitch.

[SurferJoe46]

Originally Posted by 62bass

Yes, the infamous dead note. Mine had one at the usual C# spot. Not severe but noticeable. The bridge change didn't change anything. Still there-no louder or quieter and at the same pitch.

Thanks for the rather disturbing news. Funny - I notice the dead note more when the bass is colder than when warm.

I get mine at D# and E on the G string.

[stratovani]

This is the bridge I have on my Squier P - a Wilkinson bridge with brass saddles. Works really well, it gives me more sustain than the old bridge. Here's a link to one, although you might be able to find it cheaper on eBay (where I got mine).

http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/bridge_wilkinson.htm

[billoetjen]

ABM makes a very heavy brass bridge. I have one and like it very much.
http://www.allparts.com/ProductDetai...de=BB-0320-010
Mine's is black, has adjustable string spacing, lock down saddles. Man, this thing does not absorb any energy from the string; very dependable sustain. I have it on a 4 string warmoth-based p/j. Pricey but solid.

[62bass]

There is no shortage of heavy enough bridges on the market from what I have noticed.

Re bridge mass-I'm sure it can have some bearing on sound and I haven't spent any time studying it or worrying about it. I just play a bass and if I like it enough I buy it. I mod things like pickups because I know what kind of change i can get usually. It usually works out for the better but sometimes it's not much of an improvement.

I had a Carvin Bolt 4 kit about 6 years ago that I built up using all their stock parts and with their single coil J99 pickups. That was an excellent sounding jazz bass and I much preferred it to a Fender J. For one thing it was a couple pounds lighter and much more comfortable to play. I liked the neck better. And it did sound very good.

The bridge with that one is a lightweight aluminum Hipshot-I mean really lightweight. I was surprised when I hefted the parts before starting work on it. Yet I couldn't notice any difference in sound that I could attribute to the bridge. It worked fine, would intonate easily and each string's height could be precisely set and it allowed for string through body stringing, which I did.

I think that sometimes the string through body thing can be an improvement. My theory is that it's the steeper downward angle of the string at the saddle that contributes to what I hear as a bit more solid and defined sound. Some string though set ups don't steepen the downward angle by much over regular top loading and on them I've noticed no improvement going to string through. You can achieve a steeper downward angle at the saddle by proper setup of course. I've done it on some cranky old Fenders by shimming the neck and so allowing me to raise each saddle more.

Anyhow, this is pure speculation on my part. It's just something I've noticed in my own experience setting up basses. It may be total nonsense. You can try it out if you want and see if you notice a difference.

[Boot Soul]

There was a Fender brass bridge on the 80s P Bass Special. I found a few of these bridges NOS several years ago. I put one of them on a Yamaha bass and it is a great match.....

[seanm]

Originally Posted by SurferJoe46

Thanks for the rather disturbing news. Funny - I notice the dead note more when the bass is colder than when warm.

I get mine at D# and E on the G string.

Well there's your problem! You're not supposed to use the G string on a P bass!

Just kidding. Some people claim that FatFingers, basically a weight on the headstock, can help remove dead spots.

[SurferJoe46]

Originally Posted by seanm

Well there's your problem! You're not supposed to use the G string on a P bass!

Just kidding. Some people claim that FatFingers, basically a weight on the headstock, can help remove dead spots.

I tried to get a Gb string, but GC just stared at me.

Gack! ADD weight to an already heavy head?

I'm old - I have osteoporosis and can only lift 5lbs or I gotta shuck clothes to compensate for any overloads.

It drafty now playing my Fender in just my jockey shorts as it is!

[62bass]

Originally Posted by SurferJoe46

I tried to get a Gb string, but GC just stared at me.

Gack! ADD weight to an already heavy head?

I'm old - I have osteoporosis and can only lift 5lbs or I gotta shuck clothes to compensate for any overloads.

It drafty now playing my Fender in just my jockey shorts as it is!

I know how you feel. Yeah, I wouldn't add an ounce to any bass I own.

Sometimes the Fat Finger will work. I fixed mine by replacing the neck. It's not a Fender neck but a Godin, from the days when Godin made replacement P and J type necks. No dead spot at all. Still a very nice neck to play on. The Fender needed a refret anyhow.

[SurferJoe46]

Originally Posted by 62bass

I know how you feel. Yeah, I wouldn't add an ounce to any bass I own.

Sometimes the Fat Finger will work. I fixed mine by replacing the neck. It's not a Fender neck but a Godin, from the days when Godin made replacement P and J type necks. No dead spot at all. Still a very nice neck to play on. The Fender needed a refret anyhow.

I'm kinda miffed about the temperature changing the dead notes too. Anyone else ever experience this too?

I never realized that there WAS a dead spot or two on my P-Affinity, since I hid it in the closet for years, ashamed of the rotten sounds it made until I made the changes.

NOW - just maybe it was adding the ROTO 77s?

I'm making a big comeback with this bass - not to playing venues again after all these years - just trying to repair a bad bass marriage, if you will. I hated it up to this point.

Come to think of it I never liked it until I got the Gen-II Acoustic combo and some side cabs, Now I like it all the more.

[62bass]

I've never noticed humidity or temperature having an effect of the dead note. I've only had one Fender where it was really severe. The rest I sort of worked around and forgot about.

I hope you get back into good communication with your bass. It's wonderful when you have an instrument that's joy to play, even if it's not a high end boutique bass.

I just picked up a very nice old G&L SB1 from one of my students. I'm having a ball with it. Sounds fantastic and plays beautifully and it even came with a brand new set of Thomastic JF 344s. I am having trouble putting it down.

And I was going through my stash of old parts today and remembered I have a very nice rosewood G&L neck in great condition just in case I want to switch it out. It's from a '98 L2000 and I believe it will fit the SB1 neck pocket. It doesn't need it but it's there if I ever want it.

[SurferJoe46]

Originally Posted by 62bass

I've never noticed humidity or temperature having an effect of the dead note. I've only had one Fender where it was really severe. The rest I sort of worked around and forgot about.

I hope you get back into good communication with your bass. It's wonderful when you have an instrument that's joy to play, even if it's not a high end boutique bass.

Oh - it'll all work out. I have a new relationship with the Affinity P. I also find I grab it first more often than ever now that it's friendlier.

Strings - .1uF tone cap - neck set - bridge/string height - intonation ---- and a coat of Mother's Pure Carnauba wax and all will be well again.

I refuse to buy Fender's Million $$$ Patented, Official/Authentic Bass and Guitar Wax - as it's really inferior anyway.

I also refused to buy an Orange Drop or Lemon Drop or any kind of "Drop" that is made especially for guitars.

Capacitance is capacitance and Mylar is Mylar and we aren't dealing with thousands of volts coming out of your pups.

It really wrinkles the nethers on me to see a package with a logo and it says "Official (Blank) Part" for a specific (Blank) guitar, when it's just an electrical device or wax or pickguard scratch remover.