Thinking of shaving my nut

Johnny5 · #1 03-08-2006, 04:48 PM

Pun intended.

I've got Jazz Bass that I want to restring with the top 4 thickest strings of a 5-set (so B-E-A-D instead of E-A-D-G). I currently play an entry level Yamaha with the same setup and I didn't think to file down the nut to account for the added width, it seems to have held up perfect, no shifting or ill effects on the guitar otherwise and I've been playing it like that for almost 2 years.

Should I worry about filing down the nut on my new Jazz? I want to keep the setup permanent.

ldervish · #2 03-08-2006, 05:25 PM

No personal experience on this, but the danger (as I understand it) is that the nut could split, requiring replacement. Although that would not be an expensive repair, why go through it when having your shop widen the slots slightly would take care of it? It's a one-time fix, and no worries for your Jazz.

Kronos · #3 03-08-2006, 05:33 PM

I'm with Idervish on this one. I broke a nut once doing the same thing you're wanting to do.

arbitrary · #4 03-08-2006, 05:37 PM

DO IT!!!
It'll look bigger!!!

I'm sorry; I just had too....prbly will itch though.
just weight the pros and cons.

lyle · #5 03-08-2006, 05:50 PM

FreeSpirit · #6 03-08-2006, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arbitrary

DO IT!!!
It'll look bigger!!!

I'm sorry; I just had too....prbly will itch though.
just weight the pros and cons.

I was waiting for this response.

5bassman · #7 03-09-2006, 06:46 AM

I did this same setup on both of my Sadowskys and I widen the string slots using the strings themselves, no file needed. That way you just go wider and not deeper into the nut. Do it yourself. It takes no time at all.

Johnny5 · #8 03-09-2006, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5bassman

I did this same setup on both of my Sadowskys and I widen the string slots using the strings themselves, no file needed. That way you just go wider and not deeper into the nut. Do it yourself. It takes no time at all.

Now that's what I wanted to hear, a do it yourself tip.
So just move the strings back and forth until they eat into the nut (thus creating the proper width)?

Hollow Dog · #9 03-09-2006, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Now that's what I wanted to hear, a do it yourself tip.
So just move the strings back and forth until they eat into the nut (thus creating the proper width)?

Be careful doing that. One of my former careers was working in the Gibson Custon Shop, and I handbuilt nuts for many, many guitars.

Before messing with the nut slots, make sure your truss rod is adjusted properly. The neck needs to have a slight downward bow in the middle to allow room for string vibration. Bass necks need more bow than guitar necks, and bigger strings vibrate in bigger circles, so with heavier gauge strings you will need slightly more bow.

You can probably wear down the slots with the string, but I would recommend a round file, or wrapping a piece of sandpaper around a slightly smaller string. Then carefully work the slot a bit wider, checking it with the actual string until it sits in the slot just right. Make sure you widen both sides of slot evenly, so the centerline of the string remains in the same spot.

Also, file or sand it at a very slight downward angle so that the highest point of the nut slot is at the front edge, next to the fingerboard. You want the string to ride firm at the front of the nut, otherwise you will mess up your intonation.

IF the nut is bone or white plastic, color the inside of the slot with a pencil first, and then you can see what you are doing. If it is black, (graphite or plastic), then use white chalk or something.

Be very careful not to make the slot too deep, or you will have fret buzz at the first fret and then you'll need a whole new nut. You can take the slot down until the low B string rides about 4 business card thicknesses above the first fret. The higher strings can get progressively lower until the D string, which should be about 2 business card thicknesses above the fret. Adjusting the action at the nut will make you bass play much easier, and makes a tremendous difference to the overall feel.

If you take your time and work it slowly, you can do this yourself with great results.

5bassman · #10 03-09-2006, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny5

Now that's what I wanted to hear, a do it yourself tip.
So just move the strings back and forth until they eat into the nut (thus creating the proper width)?

Yep, it worked perfect. I never got down to the bottom of the nut so changing what Sadowsky did at the shop wasn't affected as far as I can tell. I just widend it alittle and there's no fear of going too wide. I checked with Sadowsky on changing it to BEAD and Roger himself emailed back and said it would be no problem. I then adjusted the neck, saddle and intonation and they both sound great!

flatwoundfender · #11 03-09-2006, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kronos

I'm with Idervish on this one. I broke a nut once doing the same thing you're wanting to do.

OH god, you cut yourself?

fatboy250 · #12 05-11-2006, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hollow Dog

Be very careful not to make the slot too deep, or you will have fret buzz at the first fret and then you'll need a whole new nut. You can take the slot down until the low B string rides about 4 business card thicknesses above the first fret. The higher strings can get progressively lower until the D string, which should be about 2 business card thicknesses above the fret. Adjusting the action at the nut will make you bass play much easier, and makes a tremendous difference to the overall feel.

Can someone confirm this height? Assuming this is a converted fretless neck, would this be the height from the fretboard?

Jason

EADG mx · #13 05-11-2006, 02:06 PM

I have done the "string eating away" trick to string a right handed acoustic guitar left-handed... I made that low E fit into a high e slot no problem so you can make a bass B fit into a bass E slot. I did it to a plastic nut though, I don't know if it will work with bone or graphite. If it doesn't work, you can always get an exactoknife and shaved pieces off (yes, I've done this, but take EXTREME caution with this and pay attention at all times).

fatboy250 · #14 05-12-2006, 10:58 AM

I was referring to the card height. If it's a fretless neck, the string height at the "first fret" is what I'm curious about.

Thanks,
Jason

Son of Magni · #15 05-12-2006, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatboy250

I was referring to the card height. If it's a fretless neck, the string height at the "first fret" is what I'm curious about.

Thanks,
Jason

With a fretless neck, I measure the height at the nut and it can be very low. Between .015 and .020 inches is a good safe height.

fatboy250 · #16 05-12-2006, 06:04 PM

Is that for all the strings? I like this, it is a more exact measurment.
Jason

Son of Magni · #17 05-12-2006, 07:43 PM

Yeah, I set them all the same. Once you get down to about .010 one little slip of the file could take it down to nothing. So you have to be careful. But if you have feeler gauges, or just use your dial caliper to find something the right thickness, you can take it down under .020 and see how you like it. If you feel it should be lower, then take it lower. Theoretically you should be able to go down to nothing. But practically, probably about .005 is as low as you'd want to go.