thinking of tuning BEAD, what adjustements needed?

patzilla83 · #1 11-09-2008, 11:11 AM

to expand on this, i'm thinking of tuning my p-bass BEAD (plus maybe a half step down), what adjustments to setup should i just plan on doing?

jefkritz · #2 11-09-2008, 11:18 AM

you're going to have to adjust the truss rod for sure - loosen it up to compensate for the lower string tension

patzilla83 · #3 11-09-2008, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jefkritz

you're going to have to adjust the truss rod for sure - loosen it up to compensate for the lower string tension

what about the nut, will i need to do anything for the thicker strings? i'm guessing i'll probably need to raise the action some, too.

fenderhutz · #4 11-09-2008, 11:43 AM

Depends. If you are using .90-.95's for your E current switching the set to 105-110 should keep the action about the same when you tune down to BEAD. The nut should be fine.

This has always worked for me. Just increase string gauge.

patzilla83 · #5 11-09-2008, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fenderhutz

Depends. If you are using .90-.95's for your E current switching the set to 105-110 should keep the action about the same when you tune down to BEAD. The nut should be fine.

This has always worked for me. Just increase string gauge.

i'm using a 105 set now, probably going to use the bottom 4 of a 5 string set, so 65-85-105-130.

DeepCalls2Deep · #6 11-09-2008, 12:01 PM

Truss rod for sure, there will be some tension differences... shouldn't be to bad though.

I have had to file the nut for the B sting on all 3 of the basses I have BEAD, and for the E on 2 of them. YMMV. I would think the B will need it though.

Also, when filing the nut, watch out how far you go down. Go more sideways. If you go to far down, the fatter string will hit the frets and have some serious buzz, and you will need a new nut.

ysand · #7 11-09-2008, 12:05 PM

I would say do nthn to your p bass, and spend like 150$ or how it is to get an SX fiver.
I'd do that if i wasn't sure of what adjustments i need to do, that could damage my bass.

patzilla83 · #8 11-09-2008, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ysand

I would say do nthn to your p bass, and spend like 150$ or how it is to get an SX fiver.
I'd do that if i wasn't sure of what adjustments i need to do, that could damage my bass.

i've tried tons of 5'ers and i've never found one that felt comfertable to my left hand, or i would.

patzilla83 · #9 11-09-2008, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeepCalls2Deep

Truss rod for sure, there will be some tension differences... shouldn't be to bad though.

I have had to file the nut for the B sting on all 3 of the basses I have BEAD, and for the E on 2 of them. YMMV. I would think the B will need it though.

Also, when filing the nut, watch out how far you go down. Go more sideways. If you go to far down, the fatter string will hit the frets and have some serious buzz, and you will need a new nut.

what if i leave the nut as is until i decide i want to keep it? pro and cons of that?

MadMan118 · #10 11-09-2008, 12:17 PM

I don't think that adjustments to the bridge have been addressed. This might just be me nut on my Ibanez SR500 that i have setup this way i made some bridge heights adjustments to prevent excessive fret buzz. And I'm sure others adjust their bridges too.

patzilla83 · #11 11-09-2008, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadMan118

I don't think that adjustments to the bridge have been addressed. This might just be me nut on my Ibanez SR500 that i have setup this way i made some bridge heights adjustments to prevent excessive fret buzz. And I'm sure others adjust their bridges too.

what was needed? raised saddles?

DeepCalls2Deep · #12 11-09-2008, 03:00 PM

If you leave the nut as is, the string probably won't sit correctly, and will sound terrible, not to mention you run a pretty high risk of actually breaking the nut, then you will have to replace it.

As far as the bridge goes, yes there may be some adjustments needed. It depends on the bass and the bridge. My MIA Jazz's with BA3 bridges needed quite a bit of tweaking, and actually are a little higher than I would prefer, but not by much. My Stingray factory bridge had very little tweaking needed.

MadMan118 · #13 11-10-2008, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patzilla83

what was needed? raised saddles?

I usually raise the saddles, but that might just be unique to me then

Solarmist · #14 11-11-2008, 02:04 AM

If your going a half step lower might I suggest 70 / 90 / 110 / 130 gauge strings. Like ^ said you must file the nut for the new fit. Evenly sideways - not down! If its a plastic nut you may be able to use the winding end [with tapers] of some old steel rounds to "file" with. Next re-set neck relief after re-stringing/tuning. Next re-set action height [saddles] if needed. Lastly re-set intonation.

I've been thinking of doing the same thing with another Ibanez SR4, but tuning it to ADGC if I can get the low A to work right (enough tension) or if it doesn't ... BEAD

patzilla83 · #15 11-12-2008, 06:56 AM

It's a bone nut. I'll probably have to use a real file. How hard is this to do yourself? I've never had to file a nut before.

tasty sweeps · #16 11-12-2008, 08:44 AM

when i just wanted to fool around with a BEAD tuning for a while, i'd just raise my bridge saddles and tune down. get a real raunchy, brown sound out of it.

JTE · #17 11-12-2008, 11:00 AM

Same as any set-up. Cut the nut to fit the strings, but maybe just getting a new nut and save the old one in case you go back to EADG. Then after you get the nut right, assess the neck for releif with the new strings and adjust the truss rod as needed. Then check the action and adjust the bridge saddles as needed. Then set the intonaton.

But it all starts with the nut being right, so don't try to use the stock nut. The strings will be sitting too high in the nut and so your action and intonation will be way off and you can't compensate for that with the neck and bridge. The over-sized strings might break the nut too.

jte

randbguy · #18 11-12-2008, 12:06 PM

Hey patzilla83, If you need to alter the nut on your bass, get some files the right size if you can or use a drill bit the size of the string or a very slight bit larger. I picked up a good tip here in the luthiers forum. As you remove material check your progress as you do this but, cut a bit, then pop the string back in, doesn't have to be at pitch tension but a littleis ok. with the string in the slot you are working on fret that string at the second fret and tap just above the first fret. You should hear a tap of the string hitting the fret. You can keep filling untill there a slight tap. As long as there is some space between the bottom of the string and the first fret, with the string fretted at the second fret you are fine. Go slow and don't file too deep. If you do you will either have to get a new nut or fill the slot with crazy glue and baking soda and begin again. Good luck!

Ric5 · #19 11-12-2008, 12:10 PM

For me the problem with BEAD was the lack of a G string ... popping a D string just isn't the same.

patzilla83 · #20 11-13-2008, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ric5

For me the problem with BEAD was the lack of a G string ... popping a D string just isn't the same.

don't slap or pop. tiny bit of tapping, other wise 70/30% pick to fingers.