Threaded neck inserts

ia02 · #1 04-10-2011, 11:56 PM

All, I've read many posts on installing threaded neck inserts but haven't seen anything specific regarding how best to keep the neck square to the drill press while drilling the initial holes. The fretboard radius creates an obviously trick situation.

I have seen quite a few people use a steady hand and a hand drill, and some use a more sophisticated milling machines. I have no milling machine. Although I have a decently steady hand and have done plenty of woodwork and instrument repair I'd prefer to keep this job a bit more precise.

Any suggestions on how to establish and keep the neck square to the drill press without using too many special tools? Photos would be much appreciated!

Thanks.

mongo2 · #2 04-11-2011, 07:35 AM

I put the heel of the neck in a machinist's vice (with cauls to protect the neck) on the drill press table. That holds it.

ia02 · #3 04-11-2011, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mongo2

I put the heel of the neck in a machinist's vice (with cauls to protect the neck) on the drill press table. That holds it.

Seems like the most solid way to do it for sure. How did you establish that the neck was flat once clamped?

Rickett Customs · #4 04-11-2011, 07:54 AM

Yes, If the neck is level is a vise, this will work on a drill press, you would need to check it with a square though, the eye can only be trusted so much. Also make sure that the drill press and platform is square as well.

FunkMetalBass · #5 04-11-2011, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ia02

Seems like the most solid way to do it for sure. How did you establish that the neck was flat once clamped?

You don't need the whole neck to be flat, just the joint area. In fact, with the curvature and the angles going from the base of the neck up to the headstock, it likely wont be flat.

A level over the top of the joint will probably be the best way.

mongo2 · #6 04-11-2011, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ia02

Seems like the most solid way to do it for sure. How did you establish that the neck was flat once clamped?

I have a 90 degree bubble level to check the neck heel and plumb the drill press.

There are small circular bubble levels (bullseye level) available that should work for the neck heel as well. Like this...

ia02 · #7 04-11-2011, 07:58 AM

so probably level the drill bit and drill press table, and then clamp the neck in a machinist vice and level the heel?

Rickett Customs · #8 04-11-2011, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FunkMetalBass

.

A level over the top of the joint will probably be the best way.

Keep in mind, a level is only as level as the surface that the piece is resting on

mongo2 · #9 04-11-2011, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rickett Customs

Keep in mind, a level is only as level as the surface that the piece is resting on

I used wedge shims to plumb my drill press since the floor isn't perfectly level.

ia02 · #10 04-11-2011, 03:13 PM

Also, has anybody used these inserts specifically?

#8-32 Steel Threaded Inserts, Threaded Inserts, Specialty Fasteners, Fasteners - McFeely's

Seems like a good choice because:

1. They're steel, so no worries about breaking the insert or folding the external threads during install. Also the potential issue about wear on the internal threads should be a non-issue (my truss rod adjustment is at the heel so the neck comes off more than I'd like).

2. They install with an allen wrench, not a screwdriver. In theory they could be uninstalled as well, not that that should be an issue.

3. The threads look sharp and deep so they should have good holding power.

4. They only require a 1/4" pilot hole, leaving more wood on the sides of the neck.

mongo2 · #11 04-11-2011, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ia02

Also, has anybody used these inserts specifically?

#8-32 Steel Threaded Inserts, Threaded Inserts, Specialty Fasteners, Fasteners - McFeely's

I haven't used them yet but I like the looks of them and I'll probably be ordering some soon.

FunkMetalBass · #12 04-11-2011, 03:24 PM

#8 is a smaller diameter than the screws that are already in your neck now, right?

ia02 · #13 04-11-2011, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FunkMetalBass

#8 is a smaller diameter than the screws that are already in your neck now, right?

Should be basically the same size. Fender neck screws are #8 x 1-3/4". As few TB'ers who used #10 inserts have commented that if they had to do it all over again they would have used #8 screws. I think the wood is probably the weak link either way.

ia02 · #14 04-11-2011, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mongo2

I haven't used them yet but I like the looks of them and I'll probably be ordering some soon.

Might be worth jumping on it now. I was able to score $1 shipping on a pack of 10. So $4.50 total for 10 inserts was a good deal in my IMHO. I think the cheap shipping was a limited time deal..

mongo2 · #15 04-11-2011, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ia02

Might be worth jumping on it now. I was able to score $1 shipping on a pack of 10. So $4.50 total for 10 inserts was a good deal in my IMHO. I think the cheap shipping was a limited time deal..

Thanks for the heads up. I may opt for #10s.

JLS · #16 04-11-2011, 04:27 PM

I use 1/4-20". Some basses may have the existing screw holes too close to the sides of the heel for this size, though. I like button head machine screws, which lie flat on the existing neckplate.

ia02 · #17 04-11-2011, 04:31 PM

I think 1/4" bolts are unnecessarily big, also I really don't want button head screws. Looking original is important to me, for some odd reason. I think #10 oval head screws would be OK as well.

I ordered both #10 and #8 inserts and will decide which to use when i get them. If it looks like there is enough wood I'll go #10, if not I'm sticking with #8.

mcapote · #18 04-11-2011, 04:39 PM

drilling the holes arent my problem, its getting the inserts screwed in straight that i cant figure out. I tried it out on a scrap piece of wood and I couldnt get the inserts to go in straight. it just kept turning at an angle with the thread.

ia02 · #19 04-11-2011, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcapote

drilling the holes arent my problem, its getting the inserts screwed in straight that i cant figure out. I tried it out on a scrap piece of wood and I couldnt get the inserts to go in straight. it just kept turning at an angle with the thread.

I have seen people use the drill press to create even downward pressure to help drive the inserts in straight. Put your driver bit in the press, and put the insert on the bit. Use the drill press to create the downward force and turn the drill by hand to create the rotation. Although I've not yet done the procedure this is how I plan to...

FunkMetalBass · #20 04-11-2011, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ia02

I have seen people use the drill press to create even downward pressure to help drive the inserts in straight. Put your driver bit in the press, and put the insert on the bit. Use the drill press to create the downward force and turn the drill by hand to create the rotation. Although I've not yet done the procedure this is how I plan to...

This is what I would do.

I recently installed some threaded inserts in a desk I built. Because it wasn't feasible to put the desk top onto the drill press, I installed the necessary driver into a power drill and used a vertical jig attachment (not sure of the technical name, but it turns the drill into a hand-held drill press, essentially) to push them in straight.