Threaded screw inserts for stripped PG holes

[PrimusPanda]

I saw a person on here post a pic on how they fixed the screws from stripping the wood where his bridge cover went. I think this would be a great way to prevent any real wear and tear to occur. Since the screws for the bridge cover and pickguard are the same (one of the screws on my pickguard is stripped) I figured I might as well use the inserts on the pickguard also. Question is, what size would the inserts be to fit the PG screws and would any drilling have to occur to widen the hole for the insert?

I have become more interested in this mostly because after putting in strap locks and putting in the new screws, after a few weeks somehow the screw has already begun getting loose and wont tighten like it should. Any idea on the size of an insert o fit a straplock screw? Until I get something done I'm afraid to use it for fear of causing more damage. Any advice would be appreciated

[Bulltrout]

Use a toothpick.

[PrimusPanda]

I feel the inserts would prove to hold up better in the long run, that and toothpicks wouldn't look as clean if the bridge cover was taken off

[Jazzdogg]

Originally Posted by PrimusPanda

I saw a person on here post a pic on how they fixed the screws from stripping the wood where his bridge cover went. I think this would be a great way to prevent any real wear and tear to occur. Since the screws for the bridge cover and pickguard are the same (one of the screws on my pickguard is stripped) I figured I might as well use the inserts on the pickguard also. Question is, what size would the inserts be to fit the PG screws and would any drilling have to occur to widen the hole for the insert?

I have become more interested in this mostly because after putting in strap locks and putting in the new screws, after a few weeks somehow the screw has already begun getting loose and wont tighten like it should. Any idea on the size of an insert o fit a straplock screw? Until I get something done I'm afraid to use it for fear of causing more damage. Any advice would be appreciated

Threaded inserts are meant to be used with machine screws, not wood screws, which are used to attach pick guards.

To repair a stripped-out straplock screw hole, remove the screw and any loose debris, then insert wooden matchsticks or toothpicks coated in with wood glue. Next, trim loose ends clean with a sharp chisel. Finally, reinstall the screw.

[PrimusPanda]

Originally Posted by Jazzdogg

Threaded inserts are meant to be used with machine screws, not wood screws, which are used to attach pick guards.

To repair a stripped-out straplock screw hole, remove the screw and any loose debris, then insert wooden matchsticks or toothpicks coated in with wood glue. Next, trim loose ends clean with a sharp chisel. Finally, reinstall the screw.

If that's true about the wood screws, what did that guy do to put inserts in for the bridge cover? 0.o Sorry, I'm not really knowledgeable when it comes to this stuff, I'm just going from a post I saw and can't seem to find again

[Jim Campbell]

Originally Posted by PrimusPanda

If that's true about the wood screws, what did that guy do to put inserts in for the bridge cover? 0.o Sorry, I'm not really knowledgeable when it comes to this stuff, I'm just going from a post I saw and can't seem to find again

heli coils i guess,but they are meant for aluminum......requires a larger hole that receive threads on the outside of the coil and a machine screw replaces the wood screw.....can't imagine it looking all that great

[SurferJoe46]

I can't remember who it was - but I read that too.

I THINK he had voids under the PG where the cover screws went and just used some threaded device under the PG to hold the cover on - but not into the wood of the body - but to the PG itself.

I thought it was kinda foolish myself and cannot see any real advantage to doing things that way. PGs are not made to hold objects to themselves - but ARE designed with the screws passing through them to the underlying wood in the way they are designed by our fearless leader: Leo Fender.

Nutserts are too big/bulky to look good if the cover/PG are removed and I think a toothpick might be more hide-able than a glaring threaded piece of metal - although some threaded shafts to hide the holes with rhinestones epoxied onto them might be the next trend.

[4Mal]

I used some real small heli coil type inserts from woodcraft on a control plate once. It was rather a pita... I wouldn't bother doing it again let alone for a pickguard.

[stflbn]

Put some elmers glue on a chunk of toothpick and stuff it in the hole, then screw the screw in. Leave the screw in place and forget about it. It will work fine. Done it many many times on different screws on guitars, basses and even :: gasp :: furniture, which seems to be where the trick originated.

[fhm555]

Here's a good place to get small inserts for use in wood.
McMaster-Carr
These inserts are made to accept machine screws like this
McMaster-Carr
Instead of #4 wood/tapping screws (if it's a Fender), like this
McMaster-Carr

Before you buy inserts or machine screws, take your PG down to your local Home Labyrinth and find the machine screw size whose head best fits the countersink in the PG. Tell the friendly hovering helpbot you want to look at their oval head machine screws. If it's an import bass, the PG countersink might be a different angle than if it's a US made product. Generally, small metric fasteners have a countersink angle of 82 degrees while US made hardware in the same size range will need a 90 degree countersink to fit properly. Considering the PG is pliable, you could force a screw with the wrong countersink to fit flush, but then you will wind up with wavy PG edge, which looks like total dog$"!+, at least to OCD tiny detail types like myself.

If you are feeling industrious you can buy a countersink tool to change the angle, but it's best to find a screw for what you have as changing the countersink angle will result in a larger hole to fill unless you start with a clean (undrilled) PG, and even then it takes some amount of skill to get all the countersinks the same size. not that you couldn't do it, but with so many different screws in small sizes available these days, it's just a lot less work to find a screw that works with the holes in your predrilled guard.

When you order inserts, make sure to also order a good (brad point) drill bit of the proper size so you don't also build in little wood splits or those little volcanic mounds which result from trying to force more metal into a hole in wood than can fit without displacing some of the wood. You might get away with covering some small splits with the PG, but the pushed up wood will also result in wavy PG edge, and both will upset your finish.

Seriously though, it's not as hard as it sounds, but it will require some prior planning and a little wait time for ordering and such, unless you have a local source for the proper size and type inserts.

You could use heli-coils, but they are made to work in metal and won't get near the bite in wood. If it's a harder wood it would most likely be OK, but if it's your typical bass body wood the smallish threads on a heli-coil will pull out almost as quick as wood screw threads will. If you want the ability to gank down your screws without fear of mushy threads, take the time to do the job right and it's will be a once and done thing instead of something you will need to revisit occasionally. One of my real pet peeves is not taking the time to do it right the first time, but always finding the time to go back and fix a half*$$#) job later.

Personally, I'd stick a (round) toothpick and some Titebond in the mushy holes and be done with it, but I guess that's why it's called a personal preference.

[RED J]

It's doable but kind of an overkill. I can see perhaps doing it with a bridge cover but a pickguard ? Naaaah.Sorta the old "You don't need a cannon to kill a gnat". Toothpicks/matchsticks and glue time tested an workable.

[202dy]

Originally Posted by PrimusPanda

I feel the inserts would prove to hold up better in the long run, that and toothpicks wouldn't look as clean if the bridge cover was taken off

1. Remove screws.
2. Remove bridge cover.
3. Replace screws.

Screw covers hole. The image is clean with nickel plated accents at the cover holes.

[JLS]

'Zackly!

Toothpicks, glue, done.

[JTE]

Use the toothpicks and wood glue. Then whenever you have to remove the screws and reinstall them, carefully turn the screw BACKWARDS until the threads on the screw drop into the threads cut into the wood. Only then do you start to tighten them, and only enough to keep them in place. That way you won't strip them again.

John

[F-Clef-Jef]

Just remember if you do this, and then want to change your pickguard somewhere in the future, the holes on the new pickguard may not line up. There are seemingly dozens of hole patterns for jazz basses over the years, if you have threaded inserts in your bass, the pickguard holes are going to need to be exactly the same as your original pickguard.

[jumbodbassman]

topthpicks or wood dowel and wood glue. works great....don't overtighten .. PG should be flat not indented to body...

[bassbenj]

Originally Posted by jumbodbassman

topthpicks or wood dowel and wood glue. works great....don't overtighten .. PG should be flat not indented to body...

Works but is not what I'd call "great". It's a half-baked fix at best. And besides FAR worse than the pickguard are the various OTHER plates on your bass. The control plate on a Jazz bass is by FAR the worst. Those screws are always stripped for some reason. And then there is the battery cavity cover. It's always being taken on and off so wood screws is a truly stupid and half-baked idea. And you'd be amazed at how many high-end basses just use wood screws and let them strip out! And then if you have Ash trays (I do) there is the issue of taking them on and off (to change strings, bunky). Again you really don't want that wood-wood screw thing. Might as well beg for stripped screws. And lastly (though this is a more serious problem) are the screws that adjust pickup height.

There is really only ONE answer. And that is threaded machine screw inserts. The size you want is 4-40. The screws you will be using are 3/8" 4-40 flathead socket head machine screws either in black or stainless steel. For example SS on a control plate are primo. Black on say a tort pickguard or black battery panel are equally cool.

The problem is the inserts. You DO NOT want the huge threaded brass or stainless steel inserts with the threads on the outside EXCEPT for the screws you'll be using to adjust pickup height. All panels are held down with these:

MSC Item Detail

or These

MSC Item Detail

I simply smear the knurled part with some epoxy glue and then use a 4-40 stainless standoff (or screw) to tap the insert into the proper sized hole in the wood with a small hammer. You let the glue set up and if necessary to clean them out you can run a 4-40 tap into the insert once it's glued. They are supposed to sort of fold together as you insert them and then when you put a screw in it expands them to bite into the wood/plastic. Personally, I never found that idea to work well at all. Which is why I simply went with the epoxy/pound them in method which seems to work just fine.

Note these to not take HUGE forces. The glue will pull out if you tighten them as tight as you can. But for pickguards and other panels they are plenty strong and do not strip out like the wood screw thing. EVER! But just like wood screws you don't want to over-tighten. The pickguard should stay flat.

I've done ALL my basses that weren't already like this (high end basses usually are) including my SX collection and they look positively great. You can work on them at will without any screw-stripping worries.

I strongly recommend this mod for basses, especially those with pickguards, control plates and battery panels.

[C.Linton]

I'm sorry, Benj, but I disagree, the toothpick fix works fine, and is not half-baked at all, and quite frankly, threaded inserts for a pickguard seems a bad case of overkill to me.

[baileyboy]

Yup, toothpicks work very well... jam a couple in there and screw right in. I've never had to use Elmers or wood glue, but others have had had good success with it.

[TheEmptyCell]

Only way I could see inserts being better for a pickguard is if you had a battery under it.