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12-16-2010, 02:03 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Louisville, KY | | | Threaded Steel inserts?
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Exactly what lengths/diameters should I get of these things? It's for a Precision bass if that matters. Also, is there anyone on here that sells them? | 
12-16-2010, 02:49 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | |
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12-16-2010, 05:22 PM
| | | | a big issue is the fact that these inserts are usually designed to go into soft materials, and thus have huge but thin threads; crank one right into wood without special consideration and you risk splitting the neck.
there's a procedure where you sacrifice an insert by cutting slices along it length-wise, creating a makeshift thread tap (like out of a tap-and-die set). you use it to actually cut the threads into the material, which the regular inserts will then screw into.
this is extra-crucial with graphite necks, which have no give at all and will just crack if threaded inserts are forced into them.
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Walter Wright
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Alpha Music, VA Beach
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12-16-2010, 05:40 PM
|  | Signed, Sealed, Delivered | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: NY & MA | | I think one reason folks have trouble installing threaded inserts is that they use the wrong kind. There are threaded inserts for all sorts of materials.... soft wood, hard wood, plastic, etc. And they're very different from one another. Here's one source for threaded inserts going into hard wood... what a typical bass neck is made of... http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsWood/hardWood.html | 
12-16-2010, 05:47 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowgypsy | nice! they even have stainless steel inserts, stronger than the brass.
(and you're right, i usually see the type with the really big thin threads, which aren't made for hard woods)
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Walter Wright
Guitar Repair Gnome
Alpha Music, VA Beach
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12-17-2010, 02:09 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by walterw nice! they even have stainless steel inserts, stronger than the brass.
(and you're right, i usually see the type with the really big thin threads, which aren't made for hard woods) | Yes, I know what EZ lok says, but I've done quite a few bass necks and I strong suggest that the ones to get are these: http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsWood/softWood.html
I know it says soft wood but I urge you to get some maple scraps and TRY these inserts! They insert quite straight and easy with an allen wrench. I like to put a bit of gorilla glue on them to to make them even more permanent. Get the unflanged type.
The "hardwood" types are a disaster. they tend to screw in crooked. they take a large hole. They bind up about half way in and worst of all I don't think hold nearly as strong in hard wood!
Just run a few tests in scrap wood and you'll soon see what I'm talking about.
And by the way, these inserts on the neck joint usually produce a noticeable improvement in the tone of the instrument! Really WORTH the effort to install them. | 
12-17-2010, 09:27 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Beaverton, Oregon USA | | | From what I've read, you should have no issue with the soft wood ones. The hard wood ones seem like a royal pain in the backside to get to work right.
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12-17-2010, 12:00 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | Nice links to the inserts!
The ones I used from ACE Hardware (see second post in thread) were fairly large for the neck - one size smaller would have been fine. However, it was my first attempt and I didn't want to under-size them.
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12-19-2010, 11:48 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Connecticut, USA | | | Yardley Triserts are very easy to install, are available in different materials and hold well. They are difficult to find in small quantity, but the next purchase I make will be in bulk- directly from the company. The Trisert model is designed for wood and plastic.
Many people seem to worry about using brass because it is soft and wears faster than stainless. I personally wouldn't worry about it unless you take the neck off with every string change. If mine ever wear, I would open the holes and install Helicoils. No big deal.
Last edited by Rodger Bryan : 01-14-2011 at 08:13 PM.
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12-19-2010, 04:48 PM
| | Registered User I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | Quote:
Originally Posted by bassbenj Yes, I know what EZ lok says, but I've done quite a few bass necks and I strong suggest that the ones to get are these: http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsWood/softWood.html
I know it says soft wood but I urge you to get some maple scraps and TRY these inserts! They insert quite straight and easy with an allen wrench. I like to put a bit of gorilla glue on them to to make them even more permanent. Get the unflanged type.
The "hardwood" types are a disaster. they tend to screw in crooked. they take a large hole. They bind up about half way in and worst of all I don't think hold nearly as strong in hard wood!
Just run a few tests in scrap wood and you'll soon see what I'm talking about.
And by the way, these inserts on the neck joint usually produce a noticeable improvement in the tone of the instrument! Really WORTH the effort to install them. | I agree. I've done quite a few conversions, and these are superior to the so-called "hardwood" inserts. Ditto on the tonal improvement, too.
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