tightening up a B string

[jcphockey16]

is there a way to tighten up a B? the B on my 5 string is kinda loose and sloppy, and I want to make it sound a little better.

[devilock76]

Originally Posted by jcphockey16

is there a way to tighten up a B? the B on my 5 string is kinda loose and sloppy, and I want to make it sound a little better.

Well a 35" scale length helps...

A thicker string. I play flatwounds on a fender jazz copy 5. I find the D'addario chrome 5 string set has a great B string for a 34" scale.

Experiment with different strings and gauges.

Ken

[73jbass]

Heavier guage string,or different string style is the only way. If you have a 34" scale bass,I'd go with no smaller than a .135,non tapered B string.

[RFord04]

What they said.

I love that your avatar is an Avatar movie poster, lol....

[HogieWan]

for a given bass, if you want a tighter string, you need more mass. Thicker gauges are more massive. Pressurewound and Flatwound strings have more mass per gauge.

[Mike Shevlin]

sometime in your life, get a Dingwall~ nothin like it

[jcphockey16]

thanks everybody!

Originally Posted by RFord04

What they said.

I love that your avatar is an Avatar movie poster, lol....

i thought it was kind of funny too haha that's why i did it. i was like hmm i'm gonna make my avatar, Avatar! that movie is too good

[Gopher Bob]

thicker gauge string

[StringThing]

you can add a bit of metal tubing to extend the length of the string through and past the bridge, increasing the tension without the pitch changing. or perhaps just stringing the B through the body. 35" scale will do it but all other strings, EADG, might need to go lighter to maintain the same "feel" as a 34". little hands will notice the difference too.

[ddnidd1]

Originally Posted by StringThing

you can add a bit of metal tubing to extend the length of the string through and past the bridge, increasing the tension without the pitch changing. or perhaps just stringing the B through the body.

Snakeoil

[Marcus Willett]

Originally Posted by StringThing

you can add a bit of metal tubing to extend the length of the string through and past the bridge, increasing the tension without the pitch changing. or perhaps just stringing the B through the body...

Originally Posted by ddnidd1

Snakeoil

Indeed. It is physically impossible. With any given string on any given bass the only way you could increase tension without changing pitch is to raise the action (thus making the distance from witness point to nut larger). This would make a nominal difference unless you want to make the B string unplayable, and it wouldn't intonate.

There is a footnote to this tho. Using the tubing idea and/or stringing through the body may make a difference in the tone of the B string. I've done this before.

My theory is that by placing the witness point (saddle) farther from the ball end of the string, the witness point is now over a more flexible part of the string and therefore can affect how the string vibrates, and thus the tone. I've noticed this before so I tend to set up my basses so I can utilize some variation on that theme. I know guys like Gary Willis does this (metal tubing) and he thinks it affects the tension but he's (no offense Gary) wrong...that is not possible, but what I think is happening is that it is affecting the tone and some might perceive that change as an increase in tension.

[Zooberwerx]

The hex-core vs. round-core thingy makes a huge difference in the perceived tautness, floppiness, tension, etc. I believe the DR website has some detailed explanations as to which of their strings incorporates these designs.

Riis

[ddnidd1]

Originally Posted by Marcus Willett

I know guys like Gary Willis does this (metal tubing) and he thinks it affects the tension but he's (no offense Gary) wrong...that is not possible, but what I think is happening is that it is affecting the tone and some might perceive that change as an increase in tension.

Gary Willis uses the tubing technique on a tapered B string. Thereby shortening the amount of thin string core in front of the saddle. It does nothing for a regular string and has been debunked in previous exhaustive threads.

[Marcus Willett]

Originally Posted by ddnidd1

Gary Willis uses the tubing technique on a tapered B string.

Might have missed that part, but it still doesn't affect the tension in any way, other than possibly having a thicker part of the string on the saddle and raising the string somewhat.

Originally Posted by ddnidd1

It does nothing for a regular string and has been debunked in previous exhaustive threads.

I don't agree it does nothing. I certainly agree it does not an cannot change tension. But having the witness point farther from the ball end makes a difference in the tone. It's not huge but it's there; I would describe it as more focussed and with less clanky-ness and overtones, as opposed to the fundamental.

[DerlinStiles]

Basically, try different strings- one is bound to sound and feel the best to you on your bass. I played a $600 Washburn Bantam bass for several years with Labella Steels on it (.128 tapered B). Those strings were perfect for that bass- I loved them. Then I got an American Jazz V and plopped the same strings on- the low B was terrible- sounded and felt way flabbier- same string, same tension, both string-through-body, COMPLETELY different feel. At first thought it was just in my head and that my impressions were a result of hearing the different pickup response between the basses. But listening to the difference between the basses when they weren't plugged in was striking- the washburn sounded much more focused and sustained longer. I've since changed to a slightly heftier non tapered nickel set (.130 B) which works much better on my Jazz. But it still doesn't feel nearly as taught as the washburn w .128, which really makes no sense if I think about it too much . So try both tapered and non- there are good arguments for both. For instance, some say that a really fat untapered string resonates more like a bar and that you get more harmonics and less fundamental from the string (think of tapping a long metal rod - you hear a high ping because it is rigid and doesn't move like a string).

But ultimately, I think the moral of the story is that if you are serious about getting a better sounding, tighter feeling B, go try out some new basses. Next time you go shopping for a 5er, I recommend listening to the B's BEFORE you plug anything into an amp.

[mokeanL]

i have an esp surveyor 405 LTD, i have this very problem. im new as heck to bass and have no idea what the difference in 1.28 gauge and 1.40 gauge is. i know ones bigger sure but can anyone suggest some strings for me?

EDIT: i REALLY dont want to spend the money on someone to set my bass up for me im a stern believer in if they can i can with time and effort. but i appear to have trouble catching on, can anyone point me to a guide for setup? i tried the thread here but they are brand related. short scale bass too

[mokeanL]

bump

[mokeanL]

bump?

[Stumpy]

I had that prob until I found the taper core .135x from MTD. I use the 135x steels on a 35" scale MTD Z bass.

[StringThing]

I got the tube thing from Garys book. Haven't tried it yet. His Boiling then baking strings tip is a godsend though so I'm inclined to believe it may work!