tips on upper horn strab button extension

[wideyes]

Hi folks! I'm planning on doing a mod to extend the strap button on the upper horn a la this (thanks to Ric5 for the image):



My question is, will I need a thicker/longer screw to account for the extra length of the extension? It'll be coming out about 1 3/4" and I know this could place more stress on the screw. If it's a legitimate concern, I'll widen and/or deepen the screw hole. If it doesn't make much of a difference and the standard screw (currently goes into the body almost 1") should be sufficient, I'll just take the easy route

Thanks for the advice!

[Pilgrim]

If I were doing that I'd want at least 1" of screw threads secured into the body. I wouldn't mind more. Lots of leverage on the other end.

[wideyes]

^^^ Yeah, that's why I'm feeling a little apprehensive about it. Unfortunately, I'm not the most talented wood/drill worker (aka total noob) so I was hoping to hear from folks who may have experience with doing this to see what they thought.

[Pilgrim]

I've heard of more than one person who has done it - I just haven't figured out why the weight of the instrument and the leverage wouldn't flex the screw and force whatever tubular sleeve is put around the screw to gouge the wood all around the mounting point. I guess it would have to be screwed down pretty tight. That also implies a fairly large diameter mounting screw. Maybe one of those who has done it will chime in.

[peterkidd]

Hello

I had good luck w/ these:

http://www.fastenmaster.com/productd...tID=7&prodID=8

Timberlock screws.

Most building supply stores have them.

I eliminated the neck-dive on a Warwick Thumb 5.

They are Extremely strong.

We use them at work to hold a house to another house.

You'll be wise to pre-drill.

And they are already black, looked pretty sharp.

Drawback, I put the strap through the screw, w/ a washer before the screw-heads, prior to installing, so you'd have to unscrew it to change straps.

But I don't change straps much.

Best.

[wideyes]

Thanks Peter! That screw looks like the real business. So let me get this straight: you just put your strap straight onto the screw and then into the bass? Must be a really strong screw! How much length of the screw do you have coming out of the bass?

Thanks for your suggestion!

[peterkidd]

Heya

First, an appropriate-sized washer on the screw, brass ones are pretty, as the head is a bit small to hold a strap, then the screw through the washer and Then strap. I sunk it about an inch into the horn, w/ about five inches extending, but it depends on how much neck-dive you are addressing. They come in assorted lengths, I bet the four inch would handle most issues. You may also find something called Ledgerlocks, (grey or red) also ultra-strong, but they have a fatter shaft diameter, perhaps overkill, unless you are hanging a car off of it.

You'd want to predrill with a drill bit just Slightly narrower than the threaded aspect of the screw. They usually come w/ the socket bit required to drive them.

Good luck.

[Pilgrim]

Good point about pre-drilling. if you just muscle that screw in, you are practically guaranteed to split the body.

I've used those Timberlock screws and they are indeed stout. I don't consider them very attractive, but they'd probably work for this application. Personally, I wouldn't leave the threads exposed - I'd put a cosmetic cover (probably a metal tube painted black) over the exposed threads, with a washer at each end. One end would protect the body, the other would help to capture the strap.

[bongomania]

When I did exactly this sort of extension, I used a 4" long wood-screw. 2" through the extension, 2" into the upper horn. The "thinnest" diameter available at that length happens to be plenty thick to not bend or shear. I pre-drilled a hole just barely smaller than the body of the screw (not including threads). In my case I used a wooden extension that fit the upper horn in a way that wouldn't gouge or twist; if I was using a piece of metal pipe, I would use a thick brass washer between the horn and the pipe to avoid such damage.

[grisezd]

I still haven't taken a picture of the thing, but I had a friend take a 3in long aluminum rod (maybe 3/4 inch diameter), bore it for the screw shaft, counterbore it for the screw head, and cut a nice V-notch in the other end to accept the strap. Sort of the world's longest strap button. The standard screw installs to the original depth and it holds the weight of my Rockbass Corvette nicely.

My friend keeps asking if I've taken any orders yet. I just don't see as there'd be all that big a market.

[wideyes]

Originally Posted by grisezd

I still haven't taken a picture of the thing, but I had a friend take a 3in long aluminum rod (maybe 3/4 inch diameter), bore it for the screw shaft, counterbore it for the screw head, and cut a nice V-notch in the other end to accept the strap. Sort of the world's longest strap button. The standard screw installs to the original depth and it holds the weight of my Rockbass Corvette nicely.

My friend keeps asking if I've taken any orders yet. I just don't see as there'd be all that big a market.

Woah! That sounds... cool! If you would care to take a photo, I would definitely care to see it. Heck, I may have an order for you...

Thanks all for the input. The washer is a good idea. Maybe even a nice felt washer between that and the body to keep things ship-shape. It's my nicest axe that I'm considering doing this to, so I need to proceed with caution and respect!

[lug]

To be extra cautious, I use a strap with stretch material to minimize any shocks to the actual post/wood connection.