truss rod

jamersonburton · #1 02-01-2012, 07:33 AM

how hard is it generally to adjust the truss rod in a fender/squier pbass. As in how much resistance is there for me to know that its turning.

76sagi · #2 02-01-2012, 08:06 AM

You certainly should be feeling some resistance. Can you explain how it feels when you try to turn it? no resistance or will it not move at all? Are you sure you have the correct size allen wrench?

96tbird · #3 02-01-2012, 08:36 AM

Try loosening it a quarter turn and then re-tighten it the same amount to get a feel for it.

Bassamatic · #4 02-01-2012, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96tbird

Try loosening it a quarter turn and then re-tighten it the same amount to get a feel for it.

Great advice for the first time.

**Staccato** · #5 02-01-2012, 09:03 AM

If it is very difficult to move, this may be normal, and part of your learning experience.

If you move it more than 1/4 of a complete turn in one session, you're not reading the 'how to' articles on the web, are you? The neck needs plenty of time to settle after each turn.

No, it's not easy to move the truss rod, in my experience.

Stilettoprefer · #6 02-01-2012, 10:46 AM

Its pretty easy for me to do, you just have to make sure that you are getting the correct amount of relief in the neck when you are done. And using the correct size allen key is a good idea too. Read the sticky at the top of the forum about setups. I didn't, but i'm probably doing it wrong according to most people. the whole "move it only a quarter turn in 24 hours" stuff is mumbo jumbo IMO, I've never had a neck move after the initial adjustment (full turn+ sometimes) needed to get the correct relief under full tension, and my setups generally take about an hour total unless nut or fret work is needed. just be careful and measure a lot. I do a quarter turn, tune up and measure relief, then adjust accordingly until i have the proper relief.

202dy · #7 02-01-2012, 01:25 PM

Loosen truss rod nut before tightening. That will allow you to gauge how the rod and nut feel. Then twist and watch how it moves. It may take a revolution or two to get the proper amount of relief. Or maybe just a sixteenth of a turn. It's all dependent on the neck.

There is a lot of old wives tales on the internet, some imbedded in a lot of the how to articles. The "quarter turn a day" adage is one of the biggest offenders. Turn the nut until it does what you need it to do. The only caveat is not to over-tighten. How will you know? Simple. Just listen. When the nut squeaks, stop.

Neck settling after adjustment is another hot topic. Some necks will take an adjustment and hold it. Some will settle and require tightening the nut some more. Others will continue to move in the same direction requiring the nut to be loosened. If a neck is going to move it usually does most of it in less than an hour. Sometimes it will occur overnight. Most don't budge at all.

It should not be difficult to turn a truss rod nut. If the nut is hard to twist something is out of kilter. The nut may be cross threaded. The threads may have dirt and grit that makes the nut hard to turn. That's an easy fix. Take the nut off, clean the threads, and put the nut back on.

If the turning the nut will not move the neck, then the neck must will have to be bent by other methods while the nut is loose. Typically, the neck is clamped into a back bow. The nut is socked down tight and the clamps are released. If it holds, the nut can be loosened to allow the neck to relax into the right amount of relief. If it doesn't hold, repeat the process.

96tbird · #8 02-01-2012, 04:11 PM

I too agree that time for adjustment to settle in is hogwash. It's not like the steel rod will stretch. The wood will bend under that tension or it won't. Any change after an adjustment denotes a change in the ambient environment. IMO. Adjust it until you get it where it needs to be. Experienced players and or their hired road techs will adjust the rod five minutes before a show.

As I said before loosen first and then tighten back to get the feel of the pressure needed.

You can "help" the neck bend before adjusting it. Place the tail of the bass against your right foot, place your left knee against the back of the neck pocket area and with your left hand grip the neck just past the nut and gently pull it back. This will reduce the pressure on the nut and it should turn quite easily. If it doesn't, you may be out of room and need a spacer washer under the nut. You know, my rule is that if I can't move the nut with the strength of one finger, while using that technique, I stop.

Growly Lytes · #9 02-02-2012, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 202dy

Loosen truss rod nut before tightening. That will allow you to gauge how the rod and nut feel. Then twist and watch how it moves. It may take a revolution or two to get the proper amount of relief. Or maybe just a sixteenth of a turn. It's all dependent on the neck.

There is a lot of old wives tales on the internet, some imbedded in a lot of the how to articles. The "quarter turn a day" adage is one of the biggest offenders. Turn the nut until it does what you need it to do. The only caveat is not to over-tighten. How will you know? Simple. Just listen. When the nut squeaks, stop.

Neck settling after adjustment is another hot topic. Some necks will take an adjustment and hold it. Some will settle and require tightening the nut some more. Others will continue to move in the same direction requiring the nut to be loosened. If a neck is going to move it usually does most of it in less than an hour. Sometimes it will occur overnight. Most don't budge at all.

It should not be difficult to turn a truss rod nut. If the nut is hard to twist something is out of kilter. The nut may be cross threaded. The threads may have dirt and grit that makes the nut hard to turn. That's an easy fix. Take the nut off, clean the threads, and put the nut back on.

If the turning the nut will not move the neck, then the neck must will have to be bent by other methods while the nut is loose. Typically, the neck is clamped into a back bow. The nut is socked down tight and the clamps are released. If it holds, the nut can be loosened to allow the neck to relax into the right amount of relief. If it doesn't hold, repeat the process.

I love this advice ! Its right on the ball & anybody that knows wood & guitars would agree with you.I cant wait 24h to give the nut a quarter turn that would take weeks to achieve results.So if a truss rod needs at least 3-4 full turns are we supposed to tweek it for weeks a little at a time , i think that just sounds stupid.It would all happen quickly.At the most overnight.
What about the Luthiers all over Youtube loosening & tightening Truss-Rods with the strings at pitch,is this correct ?
Ive seen it 100 times but on TB ive read to always loosen the rod before any adjustments ??

Growly Lytes · #10 02-02-2012, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96tbird

I too agree that time for adjustment to settle in is hogwash. It's not like the steel rod will stretch. The wood will bend under that tension or it won't. Any change after an adjustment denotes a change in the ambient environment. IMO. Adjust it until you get it where it needs to be. Experienced players and or their hired road techs will adjust the rod five minutes before a show.

As I said before loosen first and then tighten back to get the feel of the pressure needed.

You can "help" the neck bend before adjusting it. Place the tail of the bass against your right foot, place your left knee against the back of the neck pocket area and with your left hand grip the neck just past the nut and gently pull it back. This will reduce the pressure on the nut and it should turn quite easily. If it doesn't, you may be out of room and need a spacer washer under the nut. You know, my rule is that if I can't move the nut with the strength of one finger, while using that technique, I stop.

I had some neck problems not long ago the truss rod was sqeaking when i adjusted it.When i turned it, it would sqeak & was very tight.I didnt know why so i started reading & found out about 'Helping the Truss Rod' 'Over The Knee' method .
Some experienced Luthiers put the bass over the knee using the weight off the bass to help the truss rod move into place.I tried it it worked.I was so shocked by this because the neck had a little curve or twist which is basically gone now after doing this.It really straightend the neck out.Im stoked.What an idea.The nut turned easy & still had resistence but with no sqeaking to be heard.