Truss Rod Adjustment

[GladToBeBack]

I've noticed a slight warp in my neck, the truss rod is too loose. I've done some adjusting but can't seem to get it to straighten. I am very cautious about orver tightening and do not want to crack my neck.

There's a guy I know that's been doing this longer than I've been alive, so I have that as last resort. I just wanted some thoughts or feedback before I pay for it.

Bass is a Squier J Standard.

[JustDavid]

ALL BASIC SETUP QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE

should get you started.

[tekdiver500ft]

If you can't get it worked out yourself, I suggest you send it to Elderly Instruments. They really are magic with their repairs, and will treat a Squier just as well as a Fender, Warwick, Lakland, or whatever.

[JLS]

Originally Posted by GladToBeBack

I've noticed a slight warp in my neck, the truss rod is too loose. I've done some adjusting but can't seem to get it to straighten. I am very cautious about orver tightening and do not want to crack my neck.

There's a guy I know that's been doing this longer than I've been alive, so I have that as last resort. I just wanted some thoughts or feedback before I pay for it.

Bass is a Squier J Standard.

I hardly think that trusting your instrument to an experienced pro is a, "last resort". Especially for something like a trussrod adjustment--and probable setup--, if you aren't ready to take it on, yourself.

[Bass-Adrenaline]

Originally Posted by tekdiver500ft

If you can't get it worked out yourself, I suggest you send it to Elderly Instruments. They really are magic with their repairs, and will treat a Squier just as well as a Fender, Warwick, Lakland, or whatever.

Thats like a 1.5 hour drive. There are a few places that are closer. Considering gas prices and the instrument (no offense intended) id look at other options. Really id just tighten the truss rod a bit more since thats what just about any tech will do. Maybe some strings with different tension? idk, just throwing out an idea. Of course new strings would cover the cost of gas to elderly and back. lol

[GladToBeBack]

Originally Posted by JLS

I hardly think that trusting your instrument to an experienced pro is a, "last resort". Especially for something like a trussrod adjustment--and probable setup--, if you aren't ready to take it on, yourself.

I completely understand this response. I just didn't spend a whole lot on the bass, got it used, and didn't want to spend 1/3 of what I bought it for on a set up. Trying to learn how to do it, it's just my only bass and we practice twice a week and gig regularly with it.

Originally Posted by Bass-Adrenaline

Thats like a 1.5 hour drive. There are a few places that are closer. Considering gas prices and the instrument (no offense intended) id look at other options. Really id just tighten the truss rod a bit more since thats what just about any tech will do. Maybe some strings with different tension? idk, just throwing out an idea. Of course new strings would cover the cost of gas to elderly and back. lol

Elderly is too far. Huber and Breese is 5 minutes from my house. They set up my LP, but my needs were more dire then. The nut had cracked on me and I wanted to use different gauge of strings.

Thanks for the feedback.

[Rockin Mike]

Sometimes the truss rod itself will break before the neck cracks from overtightening. If your rod is too loose and won't ever tighten up, especially if you can hear it rattle, it might be busted. Easy fix.

imho every bass player should know how to do a basic setup, but a pro can do a better job than me for $50 so I think that's money well spent.

[SurferJoe46]

I think one of the first questions is: Which way is the neck bent'?

It may already be too far backwards or convex and tightening the truss more is going the wrong way.

I know there's great stickies and even Fender (and all other manufacturers prolly) have areas on their websites that will take you hand-in-hand through the whole process.

Here's Fender's process: ( Fender® Support )

TRUSS ROD ADJUSTMENT

First, check your tuning. Affix a capo at the first fret and depress the fourth string at the last fret.

With a feeler gauge, check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret—see the spec chart below for the proper gap.

Caution: Because of the amount of string tension on the neck, you should loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod.

After the adjustment is made, re-tune the strings and re-check the gap with the feeler gauge.


Adjustment at headstock (allen wrench):

Sight down the edge of the fingerboard from behind the headstock, looking toward the body of the instrument.

If the neck is too concave (action too high), turn the truss rod nut clockwise to remove excess relief.

If the neck is too convex (strings too close to the fingerboard), turn the truss rod nut counter-clockwise to allow the string tension to pull more relief into the neck.

Check your tuning, then re-check the gap with the feeler gauge and re-adjust as needed.

Adjustment at neck joint (Phillips screwdriver):

Sight down the edge of the fingerboard from behind the body, looking up toward the headstock of the instrument.

If the neck is too concave (action too high), turn the truss rod nut clockwise to remove excess relief.

If the neck is too convex (strings too close to the fingerboard), turn the truss rod nut counter-clockwise to allow the string tension to pull more relief into the neck.

Check your tuning, then re-check the gap with the feeler gauge and re-adjust as needed.

Note: In either case, if you meet excessive resistance when adjusting the truss rod, if your instrument needs constant adjustment, if adjusting the truss rod has no effect on the neck, or if you're simply not comfortable making this type of adjustment yourself, take your instrument to your local Fender Authorized Dealer.

Neck Radius--- Relief
7.25" -----------.014" (0.35 mm)
9.5" to 12" --- .012" (0.3 mm)
15" to 17" ---- .010" (0.25 mm)

[GladToBeBack]

Originally Posted by SurferJoe46

I think one of the first questions is: Which way is the neck bent'?

It may already be too far backwards or convex and tightening the truss more is going the wrong way.

It was concave, I could see that. Thanks for the other advice as well. I'm still working with intonation and getting the neck perfect, it's a learning experience for sure.

[Double Agent]

A Squier is not a bad instrument to "learn" on. If you figure it out, then you will have a great playing, inexpensive bass. If you mess it up, you messed up a Squier, not a Sadowsky or an MTD.

My best advice is to take it slow....1/8-1/4 of a turn of the hex key when adjusting the truss rod. And feeler gauges are a great investment if you are doing a setup yourself, you can get them at any auto parts store. Remember, the neck needs to have a little bit of relief (concave) to it. It's possible that your truss rod is actually fine, or over tightened and that your saddles are set too high, which would make adjusting the truss rod seem ineffective.

FWIW, I have followed the steps from Fender's website, which are very easy to follow IMO, to set up my Jazz 5er and, following those steps, I've got it playing like a dream. I'm no tech, I think it's something anyone can do if your patient, use the proper tools, and take the time to read the directions, and follow them, carefully.

[nofrets5]

Though some disagree, it is often recommended with bass guitars, because the the more extreme string tention (compared to guitars) to loosen the strings BEFORE adjusting the truss rod. If not you can run the risk of a small hump appearing in the neck as opposed to and even neck curve/adjustment (I've had a bass I used to own adjusted without loosening the strings and this DID happen), once adjusting and eighth to a quarter turn at a time, retune and check your action from there, repeat as necessary. It's a little more time consuming but better be safe than have a serious neck issue.

[PazzoBasso]

I'm wondering what would a "pro" might do differently than a home schooled "guitar tech" in this instance... If indeed the instrument needs tightening & it's not quite getting there with 1/4 turns?

I usually loosen the strings when tightening & sometimes help it along by applying pressure (by hand) to the neck... like most, I'm a little weary of going "too far" & have on one occasion taken a bass to a music shop for further adjustment... The tech just kept cranking it until it straightened out (I'm not sure if he knew something I didn't or didn't have a clue what he was doing - but it was the MusicMan dealer where I had purchased the bass)...

[SurferJoe46]

Originally Posted by nofrets5

Though some disagree, it is often recommended with bass guitars, because the the more extreme string tention (compared to guitars) to loosen the strings BEFORE adjusting the truss rod. If not you can run the risk of a small hump appearing in the neck as opposed to and even neck curve/adjustment (I've had a bass I used to own adjusted without loosening the strings and this DID happen), once adjusting and eighth to a quarter turn at a time, retune and check your action from there, repeat as necessary. It's a little more time consuming but better be safe than have a serious neck issue.

It's not just any site that will tell one how to hump a bass. What an enlightening place this is!

But I've seen that on a few basses and wondered how it happened - thanks for the heads-up.