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12-04-2009, 08:29 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: DFW | | | Truss Rod Maxed on a new bass?
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I tried adjusting the truss rod on my '08 jazz bass for the heck of it. It turns to the left smoothly. But it doesn't seem to be able to go any tighter. I tried turning it to the right and it wouldn't budge.
I've never adjusted a truss rod before. I bought the bass from Guitar Center a year ago. It had been in the store for about a year at that point and was sold as new with all case candy. It looks new. It's never been set up to my knowledge.
What's it mean to say a truss rod is maxed out? Is this normal? | 
12-04-2009, 10:22 PM
| | | | Did you loosen the strings before you tried to tighten it?
Ed | 
12-04-2009, 10:38 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: DFW | | | I didn't release the tension on the strings.
I'm reading search results right now and realizing my thinking may have been backwards too.
I was wanting to take relief out of the neck, so apparently I should have been loosening the truss rod to accomplish this anyway. | 
12-04-2009, 11:08 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Austin, TX | | Goodlawdy,
Before you do anything else, go here: http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass...tupmanual.html
Excellent step-by-step instructions. And remember holding the bass and looking out past the end of the headstock, it's righty tighty, lefty loosey.
Good luck with it!
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12-04-2009, 11:10 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Fresno/Clovis | | | You might want to do a little more research before you damage something.
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12-05-2009, 07:42 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: DFW | | | Thanks for the link. The illustrations helped me understand the process.
Now I'm just wondering if it's normal for a truss rod to be at maximum tightness (no more right turns) out of the box. It doesn't seem right. I tried loosening the strings too. It's not budging.
Relief is ever so slightly wider than credit card.
Thanks
David
Last edited by Goodlawdy : 12-05-2009 at 07:45 AM.
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12-05-2009, 09:31 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | It's not normal, but it's not fatal either. Do search here on TB for info on "maxed truss rod" and you'll find a number of discussions about how to add washers under the truss rod nut to increase the range of adjustment.
The problem COULD be improper adjustment at the store - or it could be a warning sign of wood problems that will incline you to return the bass. If the maxed-out adjustment is indeed necessary, it's possible that it will mean future problems.
However, given that you're new to the process, it might be worth having a luthier or tech take a look at this neck, especially if the store has one. They'd probably prefer to invest a few minutes of tech time rather than get a return. Truss rods should be adjusted in very small increments - like 1/8 turn at a time - and since you say the neck hasn't changed with the nut backed off, I'm wondering what's going on.
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12-05-2009, 10:07 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Austin, TX | | | Goodlawdy,
iIf your relief is just wider than a credit card, that actually sounds good.
But I agree you need to make sure you have more adjustment room. Here's what I'd do...
First go back to the store you bought it from and show them the guitar. Also, buy a new set of strings at that store. Fender Super Bass 8250M NPS strings seem to be what most Fender's are shipping with now. So, that's a reasonable place to start.
Explain that you're concerned about the amount of relief adjustment left in the truss rod and would like them to set it up for you with the new strings, to see if they agree.
Stay there while the work is being done. When he's done, ask the tech for his opinion. If there is a neck issue, the store is where you'll need to start for a replacement anyway.
This will get you some experience and lays any needed groundwork with the store in case it needs to be replaced or repaired.
Best of luck with this and let us know how it goes.
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|SBMM Ray35| |Squier Affinity Jazz V| |Epiphone Thunderbird IV Special Run| |Squier Bronco| |Stagg Fusion 3/4| | |Ibanez ATK300| |Mesa Walkabout Scout|
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12-05-2009, 11:15 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Metro Detroit | | | Well that's your first problem, you bought it from Guitar Center. | 
12-06-2009, 09:04 AM
| | Registered User I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | Quote:
Originally Posted by pica Well that's your first problem, you bought it from Guitar Center. | But they always ask, "You want fries, with that?" Surely that's got to count for something...
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12-07-2009, 03:48 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Kailua, Hawaii | | | All gaffes at GC aside, I agree with the others in taking your bass back to the store you bought it from, and have their tech take a look at adjusting it for you. (Hopefully their tech knows what the heck he's doing!) At this point, it sounds to me that you just don't have enough experience to adjust the truss rod properly, and even with all of the advice you can read on the internet, it doesn't always translate into your hands so-to-speak to feel when that truss rod, or neck is on the verge of snapping or breaking.
The other alternative is - do you have a friend, or know another musician that takes care of their own guitars? If you do, they can help you learn how to set up your relief, action, pick-up height etc. Also, if it's still under any kind of warranty, take it back to the store. It's their responsibility to sell you a bass that is in good condition, and set up properly, with all pieces working as they should, and that includes the truss rod.
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12-07-2009, 06:54 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobster Goodlawdy,
Before you do anything else, go here: http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass...tupmanual.html
Excellent step-by-step instructions. And remember holding the bass and looking out past the end of the headstock, it's righty tighty, lefty loosey.
Good luck with it! | Before you do anything else, know that this link was removed from the stickies at the top of this page. It is full of myths and misinformation.
Gary's a great player. He is not a luthier.
If you want good advice, refer to the stickies for the links.
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12-07-2009, 08:23 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Kenosha Wi. | | | First problem, It's a Fender, and second problem is you need to take it to a pro for repair. All trussrods should be adjustable in both direction when new. I have purchased several Fenders that had that same issue amoung other issues, new basses I'm talking about. I own a lot of basses and I have this issue with Fender only. You need the adjustment in your bass when you try diffrent types and sizes of strings. My advice is to take it to a shop. | 
12-07-2009, 08:44 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2001 Location: St. Louis, MO USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodlawdy . . .I was wanting to take relief out of the neck, so apparently I should have been loosening the truss rod to accomplish this anyway. |
That is not correct. Loosening the rod will create additional relief in the neck.
Think of it like this:
The neck is built basically straight. But, when you put it under tension by putting strings on it and tightening them to pitch, the will bow the neck forward.
So, in the simplest form of explanation, the truss rod is, in effect, a heavy string inside the neck, that counter balances the tension of the strings. When you tighten the truss rod, it wants to bow the neck backward.
The idea is to find the correct balance between the two.
Although, I would not immediately assume that there is a problem with the truss bottomed out. That may be the case, but it is not that uncommon for the rod to be very snug when attempting to tighten. This is not an issue exclusive to Fender.
A very easy test is to take the tension off the nut before attempt to turn it:
Loosen the strings. If the truss nut is at the heel of the neck, sit on a bed so you can stabilize the bass between your tighs. Using the heel of one hand, apply modest pressure to the nut end of the neck so you are relieving the neck in the same way additional tension on the the truss rod would. Using the other hand, see if you can tighten the truss nut now that it is not under tension.
If so, remove the nut completely and rub it liberally on the bottom with a soft lead pencil. The graphite of the pencil will help it move under tension. You may also want to place a single washer under the nut. That will help also.
Of course, you have to completely set the bass up again. And, if you are not comfortable with the idea of "modest" pressure, that is, enough pressure to relief the neck but no so much as to snap it in two, then take the advice above and take it to a shop.
Last edited by Chasarms : 12-07-2009 at 09:02 AM.
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12-07-2009, 11:11 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: DFW | | I'm glad to find out that this is not a unique problem with new fenders. Sounds like I need a lube job and to add a washer or two.
Thanks for the comments everybody. Wanting to be able to adjust the necks myself is what brought up the question. I plan on keeping this bass for a long time.
Regarding GC, it's kind of funny that this bass is a factory special run, made specifically for sale in guitar center. The low production number of 250 would make you think that maybe Fender or Guitar Center spent a little more time with it. But I bought it over a year ago, so returning is not an option. Not that I would, it's a great bass.
Will I take it to a tech? Not sure. I've learned to set the intonation & saddle height to much success. I think the truss rod works. I'm positive it can't be tightened any more. I believe I have the situation bassdaddyfive described.
Worst case scenario, I'll actually have a reason to buy one of these necks I sit and drool over.....  (GAS)
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