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  #1  
Old 06-28-2006, 06:27 PM
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truss rod nut won't go any deeper

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Hey guys,
I've got a Squier Bullet Bass, and I've been trying to set the action real low, but it can't go any lower due to fret buzz caused by the bowed neck. i've been trying to tighten the truss rod nut to straighten it up but it'll only go that far. i've read that if i'd force it some more i could snap the neck. i've read about some guitar techs planing the fretboard and also using heat, sounds like some complicated work, hope there's an easier alternative out there. anyways, could you guys help me out? hopefully i'll be able to fix it within this 2 days in time for a gig.
  #2  
Old 06-28-2006, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman040
Hey guys,
I've got a Squier Bullet Bass, and I've been trying to set the action real low, but it can't go any lower due to fret buzz caused by the bowed neck. i've been trying to tighten the truss rod nut to straighten it up but it'll only go that far. i've read that if i'd force it some more i could snap the neck. i've read about some guitar techs planing the fretboard and also using heat, sounds like some complicated work, hope there's an easier alternative out there. anyways, could you guys help me out? hopefully i'll be able to fix it within this 2 days in time for a gig.
Sounds like you've bottomed out your nut. To achieve a little more adjustment room with the current nut, try removing it and putting a couple of washers in there to space the nut further out. Now you'll have a couple more threads to go before bottoming again.
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  #3  
Old 06-29-2006, 01:45 AM
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IF THE NECK IS BACK-BOWED (curving toward the strings, thus causing string-rattle), STOP CRANKING THE ROD NOW! Sounds like youŽd need to loosen the rod. Over-tightening the rod could easily cause a snapped rod, or severely damaged neck. Take your bass to a pro, if in doubt...!
  #4  
Old 06-29-2006, 02:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalle74
IF THE NECK IS BACK-BOWED (curving toward the strings, thus causing string-rattle), STOP CRANKING THE ROD NOW! Sounds like youŽd need to loosen the rod. Over-tightening the rod could easily cause a snapped rod, or severely damaged neck. Take your bass to a pro, if in doubt...!
nah, i'm pretty sure it's not back bowed cause when i press the strings down on the first fret and last fret, there's a distance between the frets in the centre and the strings. i'll try adding some washers. thanks!!
  #5  
Old 06-29-2006, 04:07 AM
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Some more info might help us to help you. Which frets buzz, closer to the nut or to the body. Where is the neck bowing and anything else you can add...
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  #6  
Old 06-29-2006, 05:22 AM
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i just tried adding the washer as suggested by hambone. I took off the neck from the body and took out the truss rod nut. I added some vaselin and added a tiny spring washer in it, then i put the nut back on. and after a couple of adjustments, turns out i still had to tighten the nut all the way in but still ended up with a bowed neck, eventhough there's thread left in the nut. i'm no pro so correct me if i'm doing it the wrong way, i basically press the E string on the 1st fret and the last fret and check whether there's play at the centre fret, if there is, i assume that the neck is bowed. so, from what i gather, there is a bow in the centre, not leaning to either side. About fret buzz, the action was set the lowest possible before it any notes start to buzz, but the action's still very high compared to other basses.
  #7  
Old 06-29-2006, 05:27 AM
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thats coz its a squire
  #8  
Old 06-29-2006, 05:44 AM
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I think you might find that it is a [size="7"]Squier.[/SIZE]
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  #9  
Old 06-29-2006, 06:19 AM
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c'mon guys, i'm just trying to fix this bass up as much as I can, a little encouragement would really help!! by the way, it's not just any squier or any of the crap ones made in china nowadays. this is a japanese one, one of the early squiers which were comparable to the japanese fenders i might add. anybody else out there who can help me out?
  #10  
Old 06-29-2006, 06:26 AM
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Have you tried lowering your bridge saddles?
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  #11  
Old 06-29-2006, 06:28 AM
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yea i've tried lowering the saddles, they're almost bottoming out, especially for the E and G strings.
  #12  
Old 06-29-2006, 06:30 AM
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What sort of strings are you using, you might have some high tension ones on there and they are pulling your neck into an upbow?
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  #13  
Old 06-29-2006, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman040
i just tried adding the washer as suggested by hambone. I took off the neck from the body and took out the truss rod nut. I added some vaselin and added a tiny spring washer in it, then i put the nut back on. and after a couple of adjustments, turns out i still had to tighten the nut all the way in but still ended up with a bowed neck, eventhough there's thread left in the nut. i'm no pro so correct me if i'm doing it the wrong way, i basically press the E string on the 1st fret and the last fret and check whether there's play at the centre fret, if there is, i assume that the neck is bowed. so, from what i gather, there is a bow in the centre, not leaning to either side. About fret buzz, the action was set the lowest possible before it any notes start to buzz, but the action's still very high compared to other basses.
Bassman, I strongly suggest that you remove the "spring", or lock washer and replace it with two or three flat washers. The way a lock washer is made, it can chew the wood up where the washer seats down on the neck as you tighten the TR nut.

Be sure to loosen the strings before you tighten the TR nut so you aren't fighting the string tension as you make the adjustment. Be sure not to get too much vaseline in the nut pocket. It can cause a stain as the oil from the vaseline soaks into the raw wood in the nut pocket. Vaseline may be OK if it's used very sparingly. I prefer to use white graphite that is normally used as a lock lubricant. It's not as messy as vaseline.

Good luck.
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  #14  
Old 06-29-2006, 06:39 AM
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nah.. don't think so.. feels like normal tension to me..
  #15  
Old 06-29-2006, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman040
nah.. don't think so.. feels like normal tension to me..
Good enough. It's your bass.

One more bit of solicited although apparently unwelcome advice: You ARE turning the TR nut the wrong way. Increasing the relief (adding forward bow) controls the amount of buzz. If you (as you originally stated) are tightening the TR nut (removing relief), you couldn't be any wronger if you tried.

Of course if it feels normal to you, carry on. I MAY not know what I'm talking about.
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Last edited by pkr2 : 06-29-2006 at 09:21 AM.
  #16  
Old 06-29-2006, 09:41 AM
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I'd just do what my teacher does...completely slacken it off then tighten it till its roughly straight - although I admit I may be wrong, but just slacken it off and give it some relief before you knacker the whole thing up, or better still - take it to the shop and ask THEM...
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  #17  
Old 06-29-2006, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman040
c'mon guys, i'm just trying to fix this bass up as much as I can, a little encouragement would really help!! by the way, it's not just any squier or any of the crap ones made in china nowadays. this is a japanese one, one of the early squiers which were comparable to the japanese fenders i might add. anybody else out there who can help me out?
If this is one of the good japanese Squires then it is worth saving. As pkr2 said, use flat washers. You may need 3 of them.

In extreme cases, I've used clamps and a heat lamp to soften up the neck while bending it back a bit, but you have to know what you're doing and have the right clamps, spacing blocks, a straight board, heat lamp and the right amount of heat, so this is not something to attempt unless you've done it before. But, it does work and I've used it a few times. I still used the washers of course.

The tip about using graphite to lubricate the threads is a good one too.

Good luck. You should have a nice bass when you're done.
  #18  
Old 06-29-2006, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman040
yea i've tried lowering the saddles, they're almost bottoming out, especially for the E and G strings.
Wait. You said the problem was that the strings were buzzing!?!? A little relief in the neck won't hurt anything. Just raise the bridge saddles until the strings stop buzzing and the bass is playable. Pl;ay the gig and then try to figure out what's up with your neck.
  #19  
Old 06-29-2006, 05:18 PM
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No, he is saying that he has realy high action and he wants to go lower, his sadlles are almost all the way down, truss rod completely tightened and he still has high action. Maybe shim the neck? I'm only guessing. I dont understand how do you have high action and fret buzz at the same time, the only way is if the nut is cut realy low to accomodate for the high action that this bass was maybe set up as originally.
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  #20  
Old 06-29-2006, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emils
No, he is saying that he has realy high action and he wants to go lower, his sadlles are almost all the way down, truss rod completely tightened and he still has high action. Maybe shim the neck? I'm only guessing. I dont understand how do you have high action and fret buzz at the same time, the only way is if the nut is cut realy low to accomodate for the high action that this bass was maybe set up as originally.
\



This is exactly what he said: "Hey guys,
I've got a Squier Bullet Bass, and I've been trying to set the action real low, but it can't go any lower due to fret buzz caused by the bowed neck. i've been trying to tighten the truss rod nut to straighten it up but it'll only go that far."

He's trying to straighten a neck to stop the buzzing caused by the bow in the neck????????
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