Truss rod stuck/maxed -- should I worry?

Mastermold · #1 10-14-2008, 11:38 AM

I changed strings this weekend on my new (2008) Fender CS '59 reissue to higher guage La Bella flats (from 760FL to 760FS), and in so doing decided I needed to adjust the truss rod to account for the added tension. The truss has never been adjusted before.

Sunday I did the first adjustment, giving it just a wee turn, maybe 1/8 to 1/4, put the neck back on and restrung it.

Monday it looked okay, but I thought maybe I'd give it a bit more relief so I took the neck off again and tried to give it just a nudge more, but it wouldn't budge. With the neck off I had plenty of leverage to crank it if needed, but didn't for fear of breaking or stripping it. Puzzled, I put the neck back on and restrung it again.

So now I'm wondering:

1. Is something wrong with the truss?

2. If I'm okay with the current relief, is it okay to just leave it as is? Or is that too much strain on the truss?

3. Should I turn the truss back where it was and put the lighter strings back on?

4. Should I take it to a luthier?

5. Should I take it back to Fender? (The CS is only about 30 minutes from my house.)

Any advice would be really appreciated!

Pilgrim · #2 10-14-2008, 01:36 PM

If problems are developing now, return for warranty work IMMEDIATELY. You have your receipt, right?

Mastermold · #3 10-14-2008, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pilgrim

If problems are developing now, return for warranty work IMMEDIATELY. You have your receipt, right?

Yes, I still have the receipt. However, I got an email from Fender customer service saying I didn't need to worry about it if I'm happy enough with the relief, which is probably okay as-is. I just don't want to over-tax the truss if that's a concern.

Mastermold · #4 10-14-2008, 02:00 PM

Here's what they said:

Quote:

If you are cool with the relief, leave it. Remember, the original owner has a lifetime warranty on the neck so if there is ever a problem with a non-wearable aspect of the neck that can’t be adjusted the neck can be replaced under warranty (so keep your receipt safe). That warranty doesn’t apply to fret or finish wear, abuse etc. but does apply to truss rod, warp-age, cracking etc. and Fender ain’t goin’ no where, so your safe.

My guess is that there is still adjustment but if you don’t feel comfortable doing it, and it needs it, let me know and I will tell you who to contact.

Like said though, if it feels comfortable and plays good, leave it. I subscribe to the theory “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”…

Pilgrim · #5 10-14-2008, 02:55 PM

PRINT AND SAVE that email...along with the purchase paperwork of the bass.

Rick Auricchio · #6 10-14-2008, 05:58 PM

The only issue is if you later sell it. The warranty won't cover the new owner, who may indeed want to adjust the truss rod.

Since you're only 30 minutes from the Fender Custom Shop, it would be a good idea to get it done now. Even though you'd still have your warranty coverage, you might change string types later and be stuck without the bass till Fender can fix it.

dave@sparrow5.w · #7 10-14-2008, 07:24 PM

Firstly - why take the neck off? There's no need to so that might be causing the problem. Without counter tension from the strings you're adjusting the truss rod into a hump backed position where it wouldn't normally go so you might be reaching the limit of neck movement rather than truss rod adjustment.

This would be my approach:

With the neck on, completely slacken the strings to remove all tension.
Loosen the truss rod completely and very lightly lube the adjustment nut just to make sure that it moves freely (just a tiny drop of light engineering oil or a quick squirt of WD 40) and wipe away any excess to prevent staining.

Tune up to below pitch (about a third below concert pitch).

Clamp the guitar to a table or bench top and induce a very slight back bow by pressing down on the end of the fretboard so that the neck has only a small bow backwards (almost straight). You can use a second clamp to do this if you wish.

Gently tighten the truss rod (it will be fairly loose) until turning the nut becomes firm. Don't force anything because you are taking the truss rod to the neck position rather than using the truss rod to move the neck (did that make sense?).

Release the pressure or clamp from the end of the fretboard. The neck will spring back a little with some relief.

Tune up to pitch and repeat the process until the neck relief is close to where you want it. Now put her away until the next day to allow every thing to settle.

Make the final adjustment to the neck a little at a time 1/8 to 1/4 turns but if you're tightening to take out some of the relief, take the strain off the trussrod by inducing a little back pressure on the neck either by laying on the table as before or as I do:

Sit on a chair with the bass upright and clamped between my knees and my feet eithe side of the boddy (front and back) so that the guitar's top edge is facing my body.

Take the top of the neck in my left hand and with a strong twisting motion (pressing heel of my hand against the back of the neck and pulling back on the fingerboard) induce a little back curve just to take the pressure off the trussrod.

Holding that position I make the final adjustment. (Tip: get the key wrench in place before youre perform this last manouver!)

This is the way that Rickenbacker instruct you to adjust their guitars. Failing to do so with a '74 4001 will often bend over the threaded ends of the truss rods as I found out to my cost! Ever since I've taken thwe same approach with all basses and have found that quite a few are almost impossible to adjust without me doing my bit of neck bending.

Relief depends on the strings and playing syle but as a guide, if you fret at the last fret and first (use a capo or a friend's finger) the clearance at the 8th fret should be about the thickness of a business card. Too straight or negative relief will result in 1st fret buzz when playing open strings).

You might find that you will need to tweak a few times as she settles down.

Now, if you find that the problem persists when you do this - take her to the Fender Intensive Care Unit straight away.

Finally, a lot of people will say why bother, just take the guitar to Fender but I believe that learning to set up your own guitars is a simple and essential skill to learn so that you can readjust whenever a string change takes your fancy and to address changes caused by atmospheric influences.

What's more, it's a bonding process and she'll love you for it almost as much as you'll love her (just like exploring the body of any woman!).

Gouranga

Dave

Mastermold · #8 10-17-2008, 11:36 AM

Well, the bass is now in the shop. Fender said they'll replace the neck if it's defective, so I'm awaiting the diagnosis.

Rhythmron · #9 10-24-2008, 10:26 AM

I can tell you what I did, worked for me. Had a bass sit for to long got a bow in it, I loosened the strings and the truss rod completly, hung it on my wall and ankle wieghts on the bottom for about 2 weeks, checking string tension then loosening as needed, neck became straight ,to straight. then i ajusted neck easaly to my liking. Little note keep it in warm enviroment while you do this.