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05-07-2007, 11:43 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Frazier Park, CA | | | Truss Rod Woes - The Line Won't Move
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Greetings!
So here's my predicament:
A couple of weeks ago I deemed my Schecter Stiletto Elite-5 (a neck-through) in need of a truss rod adjustment, so I hopped online and pulled off a few articles explaining how to do so. One of the articles stated you should mark a line of reference on the truss rod before turning it, so I did so before attempting to make adjustments. However, when I turned it about 1/4 turn my line of reference had not moved. Confused, I stopped in hopes that the community here may be able to help me out.
I'm guessing the rod end may be stripped, although it doesn't look like it is. I'm definately turning the wrench, albiet very slightly and the line is definately remaining the same. I'm a newbie at this so I don't have the ability to tell if the neck moved. I highly doubt the rod is broken since I've only had it professionally set up before, but just in case can someone tell me a way to see if it is?
Anyone have any ideas? If it is a stripped-rod issue are there any tricks or techniques I can use to level the neck despite this?
Thanks, any and all input is appreciated.
~Thor, Bass Maniac | 
05-07-2007, 11:58 AM
| | | | Could you further describe this "line of reference"? I'm not quite sure what you're talking about there. Did you check your relief before started moving the truss rod? After? Did it change? | 
05-07-2007, 12:21 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Frazier Park, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Bryson Could you further describe this "line of reference"? I'm not quite sure what you're talking about there. Did you check your relief before started moving the truss rod? After? Did it change? | I marked on the truss rod nut so I could tell how much I had turned it. It's just a slash made at the 12 o' clock position with a Sharpie pen.
As far as relief, I do not believe it changed, or at least the change was not drastically noticable.
By the way, here's the page that I was using for reference: http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_setup...ck_relief.html | 
05-07-2007, 03:10 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Corpus Christi, Texas | | | Thor,
A couple of questions. That truss nut is a hex (allen) head nut, isn't it? Are you sure you have the proper sized allen wrench inserted fully? Because the only way the wrench will turn and the nut won't is if you are stripping the inside flats of the nut. And the only way I can see to do this would be to use a wrench that fit loosely and was slipping.
Even if the threads on the rod were stripped, or the rod itself was somehow turning inside the truss channel, the nut (and your mark) would still turn and move when you turned the wrench.
Was it extremely hard to turn? Were you tightening or loosening?
Making the ref mark you've described is good practice. It lets you know just how far you turn something, which is a great way to know how to put things back if the adjustment messes things up.
Mag... | 
05-10-2007, 01:17 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Frazier Park, CA | | | Thanks for the help, Magneto! To answer your questions:
The nut looks the same as the one on that website and it doesn't look stripped. As said before, I definately was turning it and it came relatively easily. I was turning it "lefty-loosey" originally, and then when the line did not move I tried "righty-tighty".
I'm thinking at this point I may have marked the wrong thing (maybe an extra, non-turning part?). I'm going to give it another look this weekend sometime. If I can't figure it out perhaps I'll try and get some photos up. | 
05-14-2007, 12:51 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Philadelphia | | | I would try the following:
Do actually confirm you are using the right sized wrench. The differences between American and metric can be very small and only evident after you've stripped the nut. A small turn can be possible from the wrench slipping on the nut, e.g. due to the wrong size or due to the nut having been stripped already.
If the wrench size is confirmed and the flats on the nut and wrench are good, try only loosening the the truss rod (a good 1/4 turn). If the nut is turning (and nothing is slipping) the wrench should stay where it is after you move it. If it's springing back to place, you aren't actually moving the nut, rather you're twisting the rod.
I apply some back pressure to the neck (in favor of the truss rod) to make it easier to turn the nut.
If you can confirm that the nut is turning, then make the adjustment to your neck. Though, I would consider first removing the nut and greasing the threads.
If you are getting a 1/16 to an 1/8 of a turn out of it without actually moving the nut, the nut might be seized. I've had truss rod nuts 'pop' the first time I got them to move (old, used basses that were probably never adjusted). Once I got them to move I removed the nut and greased the threads to prevent future mishaps.
If the nut seems seized, you might want to bring it to a tech who's got a good feel for how far to really push it to get it to move.
Or, maybe this first time, take it in to someone so you know it's OK. Then try making future adjustments yourself. A messed up truss rod, especially on a neck-through-body, is a very unpleasant thing. | 
05-14-2007, 01:14 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Frazier Park, CA | | | Thanks for all the input, Baleen!
I'm probably going to take it to a tech just in case. I've had it set up before successfully, I was just going to try and get some experience and save some cash... but that's not worth losing a bass!
If anyone else has something to recommend then please do so! | 
05-14-2007, 01:41 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Blimp City | | | I think i might have figured this out. I bet you have an outer sleave around the nut which you marked but the nut is recessed in this sleeve . You are turning the nut but the mark doesnt move cuz the sleeve is permanently fixed. I had a bass like this once.I couldnt mark the nut on that bass if i wanted to it was down inside the sleeve to far. | 
05-14-2007, 06:18 PM
| | Banned | | Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Phila,Pa. | | | It's a big problem with Schecters. The allen wrenches are not a perfect fit. Even the ones for the saddles. Thats why I got rid of my Schecters. The goofy tedious S-Tek bridge, and the truss rod wrenches don't fit properly. | 
05-18-2007, 12:05 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Frazier Park, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by bassbully I think i might have figured this out. I bet you have an outer sleave around the nut which you marked but the nut is recessed in this sleeve . You are turning the nut but the mark doesnt move cuz the sleeve is permanently fixed. I had a bass like this once.I couldnt mark the nut on that bass if i wanted to it was down inside the sleeve to far. | Hmm, interesting. I'm hoping it's something simple like that. Maybe I'll play with it a little and check the neck relief before and after. If that doesn't reveal anything, then I'll take it to a tech. It'll have to wait a couple of weeks, though, in between two shows and finals week... phew! SGT Pepper - that's also interesting. I've tried quite a few wrenches and none of them fit perfectly. I thought it was just me and my improper tools but I guess at least one other person has had this issue. Thanks for the input! | 
05-22-2007, 02:18 PM
| | Banned | | Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Phila,Pa. | | | If your tightening the neck make sure to loosen your strings first so the neck will move easier. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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