Truss rod won't turn

[JustDavid]

Originally Posted by iwannalearnbass

So this is what I read: Having a tiny bit of relief in your neck gives the strings more room to vibrate, which in turn should allow you to have lower saddles, which is what I'm trying to do.

Zat wrong?

That is correct, on the top level of the topic. Pilgrim's giving you the straight goods.

You are getting a few opinions that you aren't yet quite ready to fly solo, likely from people who don't agree what colour strings are best. Some people can resent that sort of thing; you are to be applauded for taking it well.

[Pilgrim]

Originally Posted by iwannalearnbass

Can't really see how you get pencil lead into the nut. What's a cut-out anyway? Does that mean around the nut?

Sorry if that wasn't clear.....but if you think about it, there's only one place on a nut where lubrication matters - where the string touches the nut.

- Loosen the string and remove it from the notch in the nut.
- Rub the pencil lead all over the inside of the notch where the string contacts the nut.
- Put the string back in the notch and tune the instrument.

And why do you think the nut needs lubricated? What problem are you trying to solve?

[JustDavid]

Truss rod nut. It won't turn.

[bassbrock]

You could always try a longer wrench for increased torque.

[dmusic148]

Pilgrim and Iwannalearn-you guys are now talking about two different nuts. The nut in question is the truss rod nut, not the string nut.

[mongo2]

Originally Posted by iwannalearnbass

Thanks for the support. I watched countless youtube videos and read at least three set up guides before taking the wrench to the nut.

I have been through all the steps you just mentioned--lowered the saddles, got buzz (on 7th), then tried adjusting the neck.

Seems I'm in the market for lubricant now. Do I just drip it around the edges of the nut or what?

Putting any kind of liquid lubricant or grease in the area of the trussrod or trussrod nut runs the risk that the lubricant/grease will soak into the surrounding wood softening it and ruining the neck.

[Pilgrim]

My mistake! I had a brain fart and thought you'd switched your question to the nut at the top of the neck.

Which just goes to show I'm a nut myownself.

Edit..........

It's really important to have the right size wrench in that nut so you don't wallow it out. I agree with the poster above that you don't want to actually soak anything in there - wood will absorb the lube and could swell. If the design allows, you could dab some penetrating oil on the threads with a Q-tip, but if the truss rod nut blocks access to the threads, it's a problem. The more I think about this, the more I think a luthier's advice could help if you absolutely MUST adjust the truss rod nut.

BUT - maybe there are alternatives. If adjusting the truss rod nut is out for now, maybe you could try a higher tension set of strings to force the neck to bow a bit more? That would increase the distance from fret to string.

[JustDavid]

LOL!! Well, Pilgrim, you've blown your perfect score. You'll have to settle for merely being pretty darn good

+1000 on proper sized adjustment tool.

[Pilgrim]

You're most kind....

I agree with the OP that it's a great idea to do your own setups. The more I think about this, the more I feel that the truss rod problem needs to go to a luthier.

However, there are other ways to try to get more relief. The higher tension string idea appeals to me, especially because Fender strings are high tension and relatively inexpensive. They might add enough forward bow to the neck to let him lower the saddles.

[iwannalearnbass]

I'd give the higher tension string a shot, but I have no idea what strings I have at the moment. What are the stock strings on a Squier P-Bass Special (California Edition) MIChina?

Guess I'm going to a luthier. But my philosophy is that you never really learn until you really mess something up and it ends up costing you time and money.

[JustDavid]

Originally Posted by iwannalearnbass

But my philosophy is that you never really learn until you really mess something up and it ends up costing you time and money.

I can't disagree with that!!

I've heard it said that expertise is merely running out of ways to do something wrong.

I've also hear it said that true wisdom is being able to learn from someone else's experience.

[Bongolation]

Originally Posted by mongo2

Putting any kind of liquid lubricant or grease in the area of the trussrod or trussrod nut runs the risk that the lubricant/grease will soak into the surrounding wood softening it and ruining the neck.

Which is why so many manufacturers do it, I suppose.

I wouldn't get carried away either, but I'm amazed at how much grease I find jammed in new trussrod adjusters these days when I do initial setups.

I'm figuring they're trading a small likelihood of a problem down the road (and out of warranty) to possibly avoid a big one right away.

[mongo2]

Originally Posted by Bongolation

Which is why so many manufacturers do it, I suppose.

And probably why I've wound up installing washers to compensate for softened compressed wood at the bottom of trussrod holes.

[Pilgrim]

Originally Posted by iwannalearnbass

I'd give the higher tension string a shot, but I have no idea what strings I have at the moment. What are the stock strings on a Squier P-Bass Special (California Edition) MIChina?

Guess I'm going to a luthier. But my philosophy is that you never really learn until you really mess something up and it ends up costing you time and money.

You're right. I have often defined learning as "making a series of mistakes which teach you what NOT to do anymore". However, it's always good to minimize the cost and severity of those mistakes...and a new neck isn't cheap.

I don't know which strings came on your bass, but I suspect that a large gauge Fender set would be as high tension as anything you could try. I personally like .045 or .050 - .105 sets. Fender makes sets with .110 and .115 diameter E strings, and they might put more load on the neck, but they're too big for my taste. They also might not fit through the notch on the nut (the one at the top end of the fretboard...)