Trying to set up my first bass. Big mistake!

[Evolmonster]

Hiya gang

I bought an ibanez SR520 the other day, and when I got it, each string pretty much buzzed all the way up to the fifth.
So I read an online tutorial about setting up your bass.

First thing was to adjust the truss rod, to give it a bit more bow.
That way the first few frets didnt buzz.
But the action in the middle and +12 frets was way too high.

So I lowered the sadles slightly.
Now +12, I dont even get a note the action is so low!

So I try the credit card method to get the distance between strings and fret board around fret 8.
Around 2mm on each string.
And now the lower frets are buzzing again!

I cant win!

The neck has a visible curve to it when I hold it sideways.
Have I adjusted the truss rod too much?

Where do I go from here guys.
Cheers!
DB

[stflbn]

Buzzing on the furthest lower Frets usually mean the nut is cut to low, or your neck is to straight, or boaffff



.

[Swin]

yeah it does sound like your to bowed out there bro...try giving the neck some relief and start again. Here at the Ibz service desk all our SR's go out with 2.0mm spacing on the G and 2.5mm spacing on the E.

[Jo6Pak]

Originally Posted by Swin

...try giving the neck some relief and start again.

Good advice. These things don't always happen on the first try. It is often a series of adjustments that get you where you want to be. I would also stress SOME relief, as in a little at a time.

[DanRJBrasil]

you look in trouble I would suggest you to look for a pro to do the adjustment

[Ric5]

If you are in Colorado then come by my workshop and I will teach you the basics of setting up your bass.

The big mistake would be to not learn how to set up your bass ... don't worry about making a mistake on your first few setups ... there is no permanant damage.

[EggyToast]

If you do go to a pro, try to go to a pro like Ric -- many places will ship it off and have it done elsewhere. If they can't do it in front of you (make an apt), or they say it will take more than a day, don't let them set up your bass.

I had a double bass set up, took about 45 minutes and I had it back that afternoon. My wife's violin took about 20 minutes. We went to a local guy who's great, and he did it right there, giving both of us some tips.

Usually having a guy do it in front of you is cheaper anyway, unless your instrument is seirously messed up

[ehque]

Originally Posted by stflbn

Buzzing on the furthest lower Frets usually mean the nut is cut to low, or your neck is to straight, or boaffff

A nut cut too low only causes buzzing on open strings.

[Evolmonster]

I really want to learn to do this by myself. And here in wales they charge around £50 ($100) to set up a bass.
I'm sure i'll get it eventually, with you guys helping me along the way!

I'll try slackening the truss rod a bit, and start again.

So I know I am doing the right thing, the truss rod makes the neck bow.
I want a slight bow in the neck, but not visible, correct?
And the saddles will set the action at the lower end of the fretboard, correct?

I am not sure what the nut is, or how to adjust it! :S

[Projectile]

IME Ibanez basses are set up pretty well from the factory. Only very minor tweeks should be necessary. It sounds like you are really overdoing your adjustments.

[Fajah]

Originally Posted by Evolmonster

I really want to learn to do this by myself. And here in wales they charge around £50 ($100) to set up a bass.
I'm sure i'll get it eventually, with you guys helping me along the way!

I'll try slackening the truss rod a bit, and start again.

So I know I am doing the right thing, the truss rod makes the neck bow.
I want a slight bow in the neck, but not visible, correct?
And the saddles will set the action at the lower end of the fretboard, correct?

I am not sure what the nut is, or how to adjust it! :S

Here's the method I use to set up a bass (and guitar) that works well for me, and may be helpful to you:

1) Lower you pickups.

2) Adjust the truss rod so that the neck is dead straight first. We're not going to be concerned about relief or buzzing in the first 5 frets at the moment.

3) Adjust the action to where you like it. Your focus is from the 6th fret up. Hopefully at this point it feels good and there's no buzzing.

4) Now check to see if you have any buzzing in the first few frets. If so, you need to put some relief back into the neck by adjusting the truss rod. Do it in small increments until the buzzing is gone.

5) Now fine tune your action to where you like it.

6) Adjust your pickup height.

All of the above assumes that the frets are level on your bass and the nut is at the correct height. If after you do all of the above, and your open strings don't buzz, then your nut is fine. If you have some "spot buzzing" here and there, then usually a high fret is the culprit.

What you're trying to create is a balance between relief (slight forward bow in the neck) and action (saddle adjustment). If you have level frets, you'll get a good set up. You also have to take into consideration your style of play. If you tend to play hard, then you're action will obviously have to be set higher. Keep in mind that every adjustment you make is going to change the pitch of the strings so make sure you're continuously tuning it up during the process. String gauge and tension of strings will affect the set up as well.

Lastly, checking the intonation on your bass is usually the next part of the setup, but that another topic.

[ga_edwards]

When you used the credit card method, did you capo at the first fret, hold the string down at the last fret and measure the gap? If you did it on an open string that would explain the action being so low that it buzzes like an aggrevated wasp in a tin can

[Evolmonster]

I haven't got a capo. So I pushed the first fret down, and used my elbow to do the last fret.
Then I slit a card under the 12th. Most of the time it wouldnt go in without pushing the string up.

I think I need to start again. Maybe I adjusted the truss rod too much to start with.

I'll try again tonight, and let y'all know how it goes.

[fearceol]

P.M. sent

[Thunderthumbs73]

Originally Posted by Evolmonster

Hiya gang

I bought an ibanez SR520 the other day, and when I got it, each string pretty much buzzed all the way up to the fifth.
So I read an online tutorial about setting up your bass.

First thing was to adjust the truss rod, to give it a bit more bow.
That way the first few frets didnt buzz.
But the action in the middle and +12 frets was way too high.

So I lowered the sadles slightly.
Now +12, I dont even get a note the action is so low!

So I try the credit card method to get the distance between strings and fret board around fret 8.
Around 2mm on each string.
And now the lower frets are buzzing again!

I cant win!

The neck has a visible curve to it when I hold it sideways.
Have I adjusted the truss rod too much?

Where do I go from here guys.
Cheers!
DB

Where to go? A good music store with people who can do a competent setup. Nothing against your efforts, and kudos for trying and the DIY ethic, but I'd say that when it comes to truss rod stuff, unless you've been trained by someone who knows how to deal with truss roads, take it to a shop. The cost of some minor truss rod adjustsments and what you'd pay for them can be much less expensive than well-intentioned tweaks on your own that in reality can really screw up the bass and the neck.

Its like certain auto repairs, to me: it may not be truly hard to fix, but to get it wrong certainly has consequence.

[bassophil]

Originally Posted by Fajah

Here's the method I use to set up a bass (and guitar) that works well for me, and may be helpful to you:

1) Lower you pickups.

2) Adjust the truss rod so that the neck is dead straight first. We're not going to be concerned about relief or buzzing in the first 5 frets at the moment.

3) Adjust the action to where you like it. Your focus is from the 6th fret up. Hopefully at this point it feels good and there's no buzzing.

4) Now check to see if you have any buzzing in the first few frets. If so, you need to put some relief back into the neck by adjusting the truss rod. Do it in small increments until the buzzing is gone.

5) Now fine tune your action to where you like it.

6) Adjust your pickup height.

All of the above assumes that the frets are level on your bass and the nut is at the correct height. If after you do all of the above, and your open strings don't buzz, then your nut is fine. If you have some "spot buzzing" here and there, then usually a high fret is the culprit.

What you're trying to create is a balance between relief (slight forward bow in the neck) and action (saddle adjustment). If you have level frets, you'll get a good set up. You also have to take into consideration your style of play. If you tend to play hard, then you're action will obviously have to be set higher. Keep in mind that every adjustment you make is going to change the pitch of the strings so make sure you're continuously tuning it up during the process. String gauge and tension of strings will affect the set up as well.

Lastly, checking the intonation on your bass is usually the next part of the setup, but that another topic.

Fajah's way is more or less failsafe. Do it like he wrote and forget about credit cards .


Setting the intonation is a different topic but necessary and actually easy: the intonation in most cases is set when the tone played on 12th fret held down and on 12th fret's flageolet are exactly the same (use a tuner!). To achieve this move the saddles back and forward.

Intonation should be checked every time the action and/or the trusrod is adjusted.

[JustDavid]

Get your neck relief back in line, then see where to go from there.

Get a capo, a set of feeler gauges (auto supply store, $5 to $10), & the proper size tool for your truss rod adjustment.

Capo on 1st fret, fret on last fret, measure & record neck relief (the gap from the bottom of the E to the top of the 8th fret). Adjust the truss rod 1/4 turn a day to bring the measurement to between 0.010" & 0.015".

[WalterBush]

Fajah's method is awfully close to what I do, although I have a few extra tools to help fine tune it.

Don't be discouraged, and if you're having to crank down on the truss rod, STOP, you're doing something wrong. Back it up and start over. This way, you avoid doing any damage to the neck or rod.

Be prepared to tweak it a little over the next few days; a neck takes time to settle in to its new position, and a bass that felt awesome last night may be a little out of whack the next morning. This is normal. Tweak a little more as needed and it'll settle in to playing like you want it to.

[conebeckham]

1/4 turn of a truss rod is a lot. That's something to keep in mind. And, once you've adjusted the rod and lowered or raised bridge saddles, and tuned up--give it a day or so, before you mess with it again.

Also, it's important, when tightening a rod, to loosen it a bit first, then to tighten....

[Solarmist]

This is what I do on my Ibanez SR's

To check neck relief - hold the lowest string down on the 1st fret (left hand) while simultaneously holding down the string on the last fret (little finger of your right hand) - then reach with your thumb as far up towards the center of the fret board as you can, and press down. The tight strings serve as a straightedge. See what the clearance is between the bottom of the string, and the top of the fret at the mid point (around 8th) between the nut, and bridge. Repeat with the highest string for an average. A business card < credit cards thickness is a good clearance, but you don't actually need any cards - it's just a slight gap about that much.

When tightening trussrods – loosen the strings first – tighten a max of 1/4 turn – re-tune the strings - wait till the next day to go further (so it has a chance to set).

When your satisfied with the neck relief (which is the first thing you do) - check saddle height - I use a Stew-Mac string action gauge. There is a minimum clearance, but after that its personal preferance.

READ >> http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_setup/
http://www.fender.com/support/basses.php
http://garywillis.com/pages/bass/bas...tupmanual.html
http://www.sadowsky.com/media/suppor...bass_setup.pdf