Vintage modified fretless jazz problem

[Fret-less]

Hello all,

new to the forums. before I start, I have used the action adjustment guides at the top of the forum - taking tips from each and every guide trying to setup my action on my vintage modified fretless jazz for the past 2 weeks. I have done little adjustments to the neck every day as not to ruin the bass - it is so nice.


anyways,

I restrung the bass with fender stainless steel flatwound 9050's - .050 - .065 - .085 - .100

the relief is about the thickness of a nickel - sorry, I dont have the proper measuring tools - and there wasn't a home depot around here for me to get the proper rulers.

I have tightened the truss rod enough for me to not want to go any further with it. I have helped the neck when doing truss rod adjustments, I have repeatedly adjusted the saddles with no luck.

I am wondering if there is a "reset" point that I could put my adjustments to so I can start over. whats the best way to start out, turn the rod back counter clock wise and make the saddles higher and re adjust?

I just really don't want to give $65 to a repair tech at sam ash when I could do it myself.

I have tightened the neck so that when the strings are completely detuned, there is a moderate bow for which the strings kind of make up for when it is re tuned.



thanks for your help in advance

[Joshua]

I would simply start by locking down the relief. Aim for the famous "business card" measurement (a nickel seems like it might be more relief than needed).

Once we lock down relief, we'll look at the other features.

And of course, if you have any questions or concerns, voice them before making any adjustments.

[Mastermold]

Don't forget this is a fretless bass, so the relief should be higher than what you're used to seeing on a fretted bass due to the absence of the frets.

I put those same strings, same guage, on my Squire VM Jazz fretless and they should work fine.

[Paul M]

Originally Posted by Mastermold

Don't forget this is a fretless bass, so the relief should be higher than what you're used to seeing on a fretted bass due to the absence of the frets.

A well set-up fretless can actually have a perfectly straight neck, if that's what you want.

Sheldon Dingwall, the maker of Dingwall basses recommends starting a set-up at the nut. (Google Dingwall guitars and check out their forum) I never touch the nut myself because I don't have the proper files to do it. If the nut needs work, I take it to a pro.

I have a Squier VM Jazz fretless and I love it now but I knew when I bought it I knew that it would need work on the nut. It was obviously cut in some jig that was set up for fretted necks. There was no way the action would get to a reasonable level as it was. Now the strings are at that "business card" height at the nut. (Actually, I tested it and a business card can barely squeeze in there. It's really close.)

After the nut, work on the truss rod, then the saddle height and finally, the intonation. As mentioned above, retune at every step along the way.

I'm not a pro but that advice has worked for me on all but the most twisted necks.

[markblasco]

Here is my suggestion, and a good quick and dirty way to get your setup in the ballpark - start by playing the notes higher than the 12th fret, and adjust the saddles so that you get a string height that is low enough for you (meaning it plays well but doesn't buzz too much). Once that is done, play on the lower frets and adjust the truss rod to get the action how you want it. That should give you a setup that is pretty close to ideal for your style of playing.

[Fret-less]

thanks so much guys, this is all really helpful!

[Mastermold]

Originally Posted by Paul M

A well set-up fretless can actually have a perfectly straight neck, if that's what you want.

Sheldon Dingwall, the maker of Dingwall basses recommends starting a set-up at the nut. (Google Dingwall guitars and check out their forum) I never touch the nut myself because I don't have the proper files to do it. If the nut needs work, I take it to a pro.

I have a Squier VM Jazz fretless and I love it now but I knew when I bought it I knew that it would need work on the nut. It was obviously cut in some jig that was set up for fretted necks. There was no way the action would get to a reasonable level as it was. Now the strings are at that "business card" height at the nut. (Actually, I tested it and a business card can barely squeeze in there. It's really close.)

After the nut, work on the truss rod, then the saddle height and finally, the intonation. As mentioned above, retune at every step along the way.

I'm not a pro but that advice has worked for me on all but the most twisted necks.

That's a great point, the nut on these is a bit high and I'm sure Squire just used the same nut they use for fretted basses as a cost saver.

[sevenyearsdown]

Originally Posted by Mastermold

That's a great point, the nut on these is a bit high and I'm sure Squire just used the same nut they use for fretted basses as a cost saver.

I've had to do some work on the nut as well on my squier VM Tele. The nuts on squiers are garbage.....but hey I only paid $270 for the thing!

[Mastermold]

Originally Posted by sevenyearsdown

I've had to do some work on the nut as well on my squier VM Tele. The nuts on squiers are garbage.....but hey I only paid $270 for the thing!

What's interesting (or scary) is the nut on my new Rickenbacker 4003 looks like it's made of the same stuff.

[sevenyearsdown]

Originally Posted by Mastermold

What's interesting (or scary) is the nut on my new Rickenbacker 4003 looks like it's made of the same stuff.

That is scary......but come on, a rick can't have a plastic nut.....can it?

[Mastermold]

Originally Posted by sevenyearsdown

That is scary......but come on, a rick can't have a plastic nut.....can it?

Looks like it to me . . .

But I suspect it's higher grade plastic.

[sevenyearsdown]

Originally Posted by Mastermold

Looks like it to me . . .

But I suspect it's higher grade plastic.

Dude, I just checked thier website and the nut is made out of.........bakelite, or in common terms - plastic.

[Fret-less]

I think I might just take it to a tech if there seems to be problems with how the nut slots were made.

Should I try and find someone who specifically works on basses and fretless instruments, or would any tech work?

thanks again

[ofsalesmen]

I'm in the same situation... I think that I need to work on the nut but I'm not sure how to go about it. I definitely want to avoid forking over $60 for a setup.

[4Slater]

Originally Posted by Fret-less

Hello all,

new to the forums. before I start, I have used the action adjustment guides at the top of the forum - taking tips from each and every guide trying to setup my action on my vintage modified fretless jazz for the past 2 weeks. I have done little adjustments to the neck every day as not to ruin the bass - it is so nice.


anyways,

I restrung the bass with fender stainless steel flatwound 9050's - .050 - .065 - .085 - .100

the relief is about the thickness of a nickel - sorry, I dont have the proper measuring tools - and there wasn't a home depot around here for me to get the proper rulers.

I have tightened the truss rod enough for me to not want to go any further with it. I have helped the neck when doing truss rod adjustments, I have repeatedly adjusted the saddles with no luck.

I am wondering if there is a "reset" point that I could put my adjustments to so I can start over. whats the best way to start out, turn the rod back counter clock wise and make the saddles higher and re adjust?

I just really don't want to give $65 to a repair tech at sam ash when I could do it myself.

I have tightened the neck so that when the strings are completely detuned, there is a moderate bow for which the strings kind of make up for when it is re tuned.



thanks for your help in advance

I have one of these and it plays pretty good.

1- get rid of the flats.

I've been playing fretless for 18 years, bass in general for 30.

It's a bass guitar use the versatility you get with round wounds.

They'll chew up your neck but that's part of the game.

2- save your money and gradually go back to where the neck was. you may want to raise the action. It should be higher than a nickel.

3- If all else fails get a neck from Musikraft. I'm in New Jersey and so are they. Trust me, after this bass has a neckoptmy and you buy a real bridge, you'll be slamming that thing like Tony Franklin.

go to my site and check out the song "Shed My Skin". That is played on the same bass you have. [stock]


The bottom line, you get what you pay for. Squier is a good template. Use it as a starting line. It's not the end for the bass. If you have to change the fingerboard and have the neck heat treated. Then buy the right aftermarket parts to bring up the over all performance and value..Squiers make great Frankenstiens....[dimarzio, duncan, bad ass, hip shot etc..]

There's always a way....


here's the best way to check your neck on a fretless.

hold the G-string down on the first [fret]. With your elbow, hold down the same string past the end of the neck.

at the 7th fret marker, is there enough space to fit a credit card?

is so your neck is fine. if not, .............get it worked on...