Warwick bridge on another bass (not Warwick)

[Labi]

Hi all.
I did a thorough search before posting and found nothing regarding this matter.
I am planing to replace the bridge on my Fender Precision Lyte bass. I have ordered the Warwick two piece bridge wich will be here in a week or so. The problem is that I have noticed that on Warwick basses the bridge isn't just screwed onto the body but it a has a cavity around the bridge and it is mounted a couple of inches deeper onto the body. See the pic.
So my question is, has anyone put a Warwick bridge on another bass and was it necessary to scalop around the bridge or can I just screw it on top just like you would mount a standard Fender bridge?

[RCCollins]

Routing will definitely be necessary. it's NOT a drop-in replacement for a fender bridge

[Labi]

Thank you for this vital info RCCollins.
I found a photo of the bridge routing and it looks like it can be easily done.


What worries me now is the measurement of the string scale. The Warwick bridge will come about 3-4 cm closer to the pickup, which means the scale will get shortened for 3-4 cm. Will I have intonation problems? I know I can adjust the bridge starting from it's lowest point (closer to the ball end) but still there will be at least 2 cm difference from the actual position.

Tomorrow I will post a photoshoped pic of my bass with the Warwick bridge and one pic with it's original bridge just in case if I haven't been able to explain in words.

[Turnaround]

Originally Posted by Labi

What worries me now is the measurement of the string scale. The Warwick bridge will come about 3-4 cm closer to the pickup, which means the scale will get shortened for 3-4 cm. Will I have intonation problems? I know I can adjust the bridge starting from it's lowest point (closer to the ball end) but still there will be at least 2 cm difference from the actual position.

This will create serious intonation issues. The saddles MUST be located where they are now for the instrument to play in tune. A 2 cm difference is huge when it comes to intonation.

[Labi]

OK here's a photoshoped pic of the Fender with a Warwick bridge. The red line marks the point where the E string rests on the saddle and the black line marks the G string. Obviously I can adjust the G and the D saddles to the correct position but will not be able to do so with the A and the E. I was wondering if I could move the bridge closer to the tailpiece just enough so I can access the adjustment screws.
It's starting to look like mission impossible.

[T-Bird]

Hi.

Move the bridge 10mm back and flip it around, problem solved.

You may have to cut some grooves for the strings though.

Regards
Sam

[Labi]

Originally Posted by T-Bird

Hi.

Move the bridge 10mm back and flip it around, problem solved.

You may have to cut some grooves for the strings though.

Regards
Sam

Please say that you were just kidding.

Another idea came to my mind today. Strings through body. This will eliminate the tailpiece and give more space for the bridge. Anyone?

[T-Bird]

Hi.

Originally Posted by Labi

Please say that you were just kidding.

Another idea came to my mind today. Strings through body. This will eliminate the tailpiece and give more space for the bridge. Anyone?

No I'm not, the "correct" orientation of a Gibson Tune-O-Matic is like that.

I doubt that You'd have to cut the grooves as the neck angle on Fender style guitars and basses is less severe than on Warwick's (at least on the ones I've held). That requires the bridge to sit in lower and the break angle is less than on the Warwick's

If You do strings through installation I also doubt that You can get the strings far enough to clear the edge of the bridge, even though there's relief cuts. And then You'll have to get extra long strings etc.

The only sure way to tell is to try.

Regards
Sam

[Labi]

Originally Posted by T-Bird

Hi.



No I'm not, the "correct" orientation of a Gibson Tune-O-Matic is like that.

I doubt that You'd have to cut the grooves as the neck angle on Fender style guitars and basses is less severe than on Warwick's (at least on the ones I've held). That requires the bridge to sit in lower and the break angle is less than on the Warwick's

If You do strings through installation I also doubt that You can get the strings far enough to clear the edge of the bridge, even though there's relief cuts. And then You'll have to get extra long strings etc.

The only sure way to tell is to try.

Regards
Sam

The idea of having an upside down bridge was, well ridiculous at the time when I replied to your post, but after giving it a thought and observing the photo of the bridge, it really makes sense. Sorry 'bout that.
Also, the idea of strings through body was just my sarcastic way to show how hopeless I've become. To be honest I'm this close to giving up this idea and get a standard bridge.