Warwick Fret Buzz All Over Neck

[The Artist]

Hi,
I have recently put on a lighter gauge of Strings on my Warwick Corvette $$.
When I got the new strings I asked the guy in the shop to set up the bass (he was a guitarist). However I seem to have fret buzz from the first fret to the 24th fret on every string unless I play really softly (I play finger style...if that makes any difference)
I know Warwick have made several Truss rods so I'm also not sure which way to turn it.
Is this correct: Clockwise=Straighter neck
Anti-clockwise= Concave neck (U bend)

At the moment when nothing is fretted the spacing between 24th fret and E-string is around 3mm but less at the 1st fret. (string lifts off closer to the body)

The guy in the shop said, that if there is buzz closer to the body I must adjust the rod. If it buzzes closer to the head I should adjust the bridge hight. Is this correct?
Seeing as it buzzes everywhere, I don't know what to do.

(I have no buzz on open strings)

I would like to learn how to do it myself, a: out of interest, b: I have to travel for an hour on several trains to get to the place where they do setup......badly

Thanks for any help
aLexx

[bassnug47]

take it to the store and have them reset it up correctly, or get your money back.

[JazzMarius]

http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass...tupmanual.htmlif it buzzez all over the neck, i guess it's just the string high.lift them a lil higher.if it is aboout the truss rod it must buzz only some frets ( depends if it's to tight or loose) watch this link it's very helpful

[Joe Nerve]

Originally Posted by bassnug47

take it to the store and have them set it up correctly

- 1.

Learn to do it yourself as you intend. You'll save lots of money over the years, and won't be a slave to some guy who will take your bass hostage until he has the time to deal with it.

As for the adjustment, there are lots of threads here that explain how to do it. Seek and you shall find. The important thing is learning how to sight the neck to see if it's bowing too much in one direction. It's a little tricky until you get the hang of it and know the angle to look - kinda like reading an old thermometer. You have to look straight down the neck and see how the fretboard is laying towards the strings. If the neck is bowing towards the strings it's too tight and the truss rod needs to be loosened. Most people keep a tiny little bit of relief in the neck, bowed ever so slightly away from the strings. My necks are pretty close to straight - ya get good action like that, but yer probably gonna have some buzzes when you dig in.

With all that being said, I wouldn't be too afraid to experiment. If you only go a quarter turn at time (then check what you've done and wait a few minutes) it'll be hard to break it. I think you have to give it considerable force to break too - a little sensitivity goes a long way.

Once the neck is in good shape, then the rest of the action setting is done at the bridge.

There may be more technically precise ways of doing this, but the above has worked just fine for me for years. My basses are all set up exactly as I like them, I never had to travel or wait for a set up, and I never paid anyone a dime to have it done.

[bassnug47]

Originally Posted by Joe Nerve

- 1.

Learn to do it yourself as you intend. You'll save lots of money over the years, and won't be a slave to some guy who will take your bass hostage until he has the time to deal with it.

As for the adjustment, there are lots of threads here that explain how to do it. Seek and you shall find. The important thing is learning how to sight the neck to see if it's bowing too much in one direction. It's a little tricky until you get the hang of it and know the angle to look - kinda like reading an old thermometer. You have to look straight down the neck and see how the fretboard is laying towards the strings. If the neck is bowing towards the strings it's too tight and the truss rod needs to be loosened. Most people keep a tiny little bit of relief in the neck, bowed ever so slightly away from the strings. My necks are pretty close to straight - ya get good action like that, but yer probably gonna have some buzzes when you dig in.

With all that being said, I wouldn't be too afraid to experiment. If you only go a quarter turn at time (then check what you've done and wait a few minutes) it'll be hard to break it. I think you have to give it considerable force to break too - a little sensitivity goes a long way.

Once the neck is in good shape, then the rest of the action setting is done at the bridge.

There may be more technically precise ways of doing this, but the above has worked just fine for me for years. My basses are all set up exactly as I like them, I never had to travel or wait for a set up, and I never paid anyone a dime to have it done.

but if they set it up incorrectly, he should at least get his moneys worth

[202dy]

Please refer to the sticky at the top of the page, all truss rod questions answered here. There is a link to the Mr. Gearhead (Fender) site. If you want to do it like a pro, this site has the answers. It is easy to understand and perform the tasks.

Assuming you were charged for a set up, the person who set up the instrument should be willing to perform the adjustment for free. If they are not, find a new store. Their advise on making adjustments is suspect at best.

[Joe Nerve]

Originally Posted by bassnug47

but if they set it up incorrectly, he should at least get his moneys worth

my apoligies, true. if they screwed it up and charged you for it they should fix it. I'd save that option for after my own fiddlin with it though. a little safety net.

[SuperDuck]

Keep in mind that the Warwick has an adjustable nut. This adds another dimension to setting it up and, when used in conjunction with bridge and truss rod adjustments, gives the patient man access to the perfect setup.

[202dy]

Originally Posted by Joe Nerve

my apoligies, true. if they screwed it up and charged you for it they should fix it. I'd save that option for after my own fiddlin with it though. a little safety net.

That is sort of like playing with the toy before it is to be given as a gift.

If the "fiddlin" is obvious and the retailer/repair shop notices they are well within their rights to charge for a new setup. Once the client mucks about with the adjustments it is no longer the responsibility of the repair folk. If they do not charge for the new set up they are wonderful people and their praises should be sung loudly to all who can hear. If they charge, the "fiddler" should be willing to admit that he owns too many tools and has no restraint.

[Rico_2212]

Did you get it done by Schmidt? I'd heard that they were a little more competent than that.
I would agree with everyone else that you should get your money back. We have enough good bass builders by us that you could probably get it done better for the same price or
even cheaper.

[dbcandle]

Perhaps the tech that did the setup has a very light touch and you have a very heavy touch.

Ideally, the tech should consult you as to your playing-style...

[The Artist]

Thanks for all your responses


Yes, it was Schmidt.
I didn't pay anyone for anything, they were very busy at the time. When I tryed it in the shop I didn't notice any buzzing, however there was a lot going on there and it was rather noisy.
I get a free setup after one year of purcase of the bass there, but the guy was busy and I have to travel for an hour to get there. There is a closer shop I found that I'll check out tomorrow.

Cheers
aLexx

[The Artist]

Originally Posted by Rico_2212

Did you get it done by Schmidt? I'd heard that they were a little more competent than that.
I would agree with everyone else that you should get your money back. We have enough good bass builders by us that you could probably get it done better for the same price or
even cheaper.

Where and who is "we"? I like the sound of getting it done better