Warwick Truss Adjustment - Not Working

[Bassamatic]

I have recently added a used Warwick Corvette Proline to my stable. It was well used, but the sound is fabulous and it cleaned up very well.

While changing the strings to my favorite Elixirs, I also worked at setting the action to my usual - down to the fingerboard level. I have the bridge lowered all the way, and the saddles lowered all the way, but the action is still not as low as I get on my other basses, i.e. Peavey and Fender.

The next step is usually to adjust the truss rod to reduce the relief. I have turned it about 1/2 -2/3 turn total over 2-3 adjustments, but I see VERY little difference, if any at all. The relief is still about 2-3mm on the E string.

Is this lack of difference typical for a Warwick? When I adjusted my Fender, 1/4 turn made a lot of difference. I don't want to keep cranking on it if there is some problem.

Thanks for any advice on this.

[momo]

Is it getting better with the turns? I want to say that I heard that some of the older Warwicks had reverse action truss rods.

I have also heard the warwick gurus say that you have to straighten the neck out a bit before any adjustments. I did that with my old Corvette once.

[Zooberwerx]

Originally Posted by Gio S

The next step is usually to adjust the truss rod to reduce the relief. I have turned it about 1/2 -2/3 turn total over 2-3 adjustments, but I see VERY little difference, if any at all. The relief is still about 2-3mm on the E string.

Just wanted to clarify: Is the relief 2-3 mm or is the string height 2-3mm?

Riis

[Bassamatic]

Thanks for the comments.
1. It seems to get a LITTLE better, but not much. I feels as if it should be tightening, not getting looser. Maybe I should contact Warwick about this.

2. The string height is about 3-4mm, the relief is about 2mm.

It is playable now, but it seems that all the bridge adjustments shouldn't need to be set to absolute minimum to make it work.

[Zooberwerx]

Hmmm...wish I had your Warwick in front of me. I've had two and never had any difficulty with set-ups.

The Corvette should have the conventional trussrod orientation...CW tightens, CCW loosens (righty tighty, lefty loosey). Not 100% sure but I thought Warwicks had the dual-acting trussrod and there existed a "neutral point" where the rod feels slack (moves freely back and forth with a 5 mm hex wrench inserted).

Do you have the entire brass bridge block as low as it will go? IIRC, the center hex screw on each side essentially locks the bridge block in place. The four corner hex screws raise her up and down. Of course you set / fine tune string height and profile with the individual string saddles.

Sorry, not trying to give a tutorial...just want to eliminate some of the simpler things that may have you jimmied!

Riis

[Bassamatic]

Thank again for your comments. I read the entire Warwick setup guide before I started tampering. I was really impressed at all the adjustments.

YES - the bridge and saddles are bottomed out - That is what concerns me. You should be able to lower the strings completely to the fingerboard if you lower everything and tighten the trussrod.

I'll take it to our local expert for a look. I got it at GC so I can return it if there is some functional problem, but I hope I don't have to, I am already used to the great sound.

[Zooberwerx]

Gio S,

Well, let's leave it at that for the moment. I'm anxious to hear where the problem lies. Please post some follow-up when you get the diagnosis (if any). This may be a learning experience for all of us.

Riis

[knarleybass]

I may be in the same boat, I just got a Warwick Infinity, and I keep tightening the Trussrod and there is still to much relief, I am getting to where I am afraid that I am going to snap the trussrod. I use the supplied tool, when I turn the trussrod nut it makes a horrible creaking noise and it has almost no effect on the amount of relief.

[Zooberwerx]

I've had similar issues and here's what I've read:

*Truss rods are designed to maintain a degree of relief (or none whatsoever if that's your bag).

*Truss rods are not designed to straighten necks. This mis-application may result in breakage.

*Some truss rod nuts are removable, others are not.

*People will use just about anything to lube a truss rod nut.

If you are in doubt, I would strongly suggest you take it to a knowledgeable luthier. They'll probably remove strings, remove the truss rod nut, and mechanically straighten the neck on a clamp / jig assembly. Washers are added if needed and the truss rod nut is re-installed. Restring and tweak to taste.

Keep us posted on the progress!

Riis

[momo]

+1 on the comment that trussrods aren't meant to straighten necks, they are ment to keep them straight. I used to do a strange seated position adjustment where one leg supported the bass, one leg put counterpressure on the back of the neck, one hand held it straight, and one hand tightened the rod (and Ive only taken a few yoga classes). This helped to straighten the neck out for the adjustment, and I had little issure after that. Warwick necks are STIFF. Even if they have worked into some bow, they dont like to move around. Try this at about a quarter of a turn at a time and wait for a day or so between adjustments. If this still doesn't work, take it to the shop.

Or just take it to the shop now. Its your bass.

[gafbass02]

I have also seen a few warwicks in the past with a similar creaking, hard to turn, unresponsive truss rod.

[Bassamatic]

FYI - The truss rod problem resolvied itslef in 2 ways -
1. I turned it a little further, and the strings fell into proper alignment. I wonder if the previous owner had tried creating a larger gap for slapping, etc. by loosening it? and

2. Got a great deal on a new Corvette $$ at the NAMM show, and sold the Corvette.

Thanks for your help.