Go Back   TalkBass Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]
Register Rules/FAQ/CUP Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read



Supporting Membership
Thank You

Latest Supporting Member
Donate to Upgrade Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 09-30-2011, 04:59 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Finland
Warwick truss rod doesn't seem to work?

Sign in to disble this ad
I have a 1994 Fortress Mastermann 4. I need it in drop-B for the time being so I put an Elixir .065 to .125 set on it.

I knew this would mess the neck, but adjusting the trussrod doesn't seem to work. Over the past four days I've gone almost two turns in small increments and let it set with the strings very loose. It was fine with my previous set of strings (.045 to .105) in drop-C and C#.

What happens now is the neck goes flat which is nice but when I tighten the strings it curves in a bit and I get buzz around the 8th fret area and bit too much action at the high frets.

What's up with my neck and truss rod? I think I need just a bit of convex neck bow so the strings pull it straight but it doesn't seem to go convex. Or am I being too gentle?
  #2  
Old 09-30-2011, 05:31 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Two turns is an awful lot! Most neck adjustments can be accomplished with a quarter turn or so.

I believe that Warwick used trussrods that turned in the other direction from time to time. I recommend you contact Warwick and ask them what they suggest for proper truss rod adjustment.
  #3  
Old 09-30-2011, 05:37 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2011
Yup, agreed, or Google for some tips on ya bass.
__________________
I like to use 3 fingers and a thumb on my special lady....
  #4  
Old 09-30-2011, 05:55 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Finland
I've googled around and also read two versions of the Warwick user manual that comes with their basses. I'm also familiar with setting up instruments so I'm not just randomly touching stuff.

Good idea on contacting Warwick, they have their own dedicated forum for W instruments and I've heard the customer service is very helpful in general.

I'm not in a rush, I have no active bands so it's not like I desperately NEED a bass but I had planned on doing some recording next week. Hopefully I can get this sorted out during the weekend. I'm absolutely in love with this bass, had it for three years now. I've been playing for about 10 years and I've always been very quick to sell what I had to try out something new. A few years ago I had this and a Peavey USA custom that was worth twice the money, ended up selling the Peavey. While it was a superb instrument in scratchless condition and my W has a few battle scars here and there the 'wick just has this inexplicable feel to it
  #5  
Old 09-30-2011, 06:00 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
you should be aware that some of the older warwick have reversed single acting truss rods. (Eg left turns straighten the neck). Yours might be one of those. Perhaps the warwick forums have more answers
  #6  
Old 09-30-2011, 11:39 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Brooklyn, NY
I recently set up a friend's '95 Warwick and found that trussrod to be just barely enough for the job. I ran out of turns just as the neck got to where I wanted it to be. It's fine for now, but i told him if he needs to make any further adjustments he should consult Warwick before he strips that thing out.

Since his is about the same age as yours, perhaps there was a period where this was common?
  #7  
Old 09-30-2011, 12:18 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Oracle, Arizona
+1

While I totally agree that 2 turns is an awful lot I think there MIGHT be another issue.
Several rod types are NOT threaded all the way up. They stop their threading (please see web sites that sell replacement rods, etc) at about 2" and it MIGHT be possible that you've reached that "stop". See if you can back it down and it's in the thread.
Again: I'm guessing obviously, but you may have a very flexible neck. If that's the case Warwick may have a solution to the issue using some stiffening arrangement.
__________________
Paul Tutmarc: Inventor of the Electric Bass - 1931.
1st Electric Bass "Serenader":. L.D. HEATER Co. 1948
  #8  
Old 10-01-2011, 04:24 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Finland
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lo-E View Post
I recently set up a friend's '95 Warwick and found that trussrod to be just barely enough for the job. I ran out of turns just as the neck got to where I wanted it to be. It's fine for now, but i told him if he needs to make any further adjustments he should consult Warwick before he strips that thing out.

Since his is about the same age as yours, perhaps there was a period where this was common?
Yeah, this turned out to be the case actually! I got the thing fixed, I'll post something about here incase someone else is in the same ditch.

Turns out mine was the regular old 2-way W truss rod. I was instructed on the Warwick forum to take it out and see if it still works. They have video showing you how to do it, it's a very simple process. It turned out to be just fine. The truss rod cavity is full of that lubricating gunk so keep some kleenex handy while you do this

When the old 2-way truss rod is completely flat, it can turn a full turn either way before it feels snug at all. It's very light at that point.

I put the the truss rod back and started turning. Now my new strings are BF#BE (.125 to .65, originally meant for BEAD) so they have loads more tension when in tune compared to my old medium set in DADG. I gave the truss rod about 4 full turns before it actually gave enough resistance to the string tension. It has just the slightest bow at the low fret end to eliminate buzz but other than that it's very flat.

Incidentally, that's about where the truss rod started to feel dangerous. It's just starting to show some extra resistance and I fear that with an extra turn it would burst right thru the fingerboard. Luckily it's just right now anyway

So, it turned out ok in the end. Seeing the actual truss rod really helped me understand how it does what it does. It was nothing like I imagined it would be :P

edit: I say 4 full turns up there. Before anyone goes "FOUR TURNS!!" you need to realize every truss rod has a few turns in them, it'll curve like a banana when the strings are in tune if there isn't some tension in the truss rod. From my previous tuning I think I needed about two to three turns more. I have excellent action now

Last edited by Ruoska : 10-01-2011 at 04:29 AM.
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Follow TalkBass on Twitter   Visit TalkBass on Facebook  

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:06 AM.




Copyright 2011 Talk Music Group Inc. All rights reserved.
Play guitar? Visit our new sister site TalkGuitar.com [beta]
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.12
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.