Wenge Fingerboard Crack / Separation

[Zooberwerx]

I'm doing a refurb. on an older MTD Grendel and found the wenge FB has a subtle < mild split running from the end of the fretboard to the 19th fret. Further inspection shows the separation transcends the full thickness of the fingerboard when viewed on end. Despite this, the surface appears relatively stable with no discernible fret-lifting.

Before I go re-oiling the board, should I attempt to wick superglue into the split or am I just wasting time?

Riis

[202dy]

Originally Posted by Zooberwerx

I'm doing a refurb. on an older MTD Grendel and found the wenge FB has a subtle < mild split running from the end of the fretboard to the 19th fret. Further inspection shows the separation transcends the full thickness of the fingerboard when viewed on end. Despite this, the surface appears relatively stable with no discernible fret-lifting.

Before I go re-oiling the board, should I attempt to wick superglue into the split or am I just wasting time?

Riis

You already knew the answer. Grab the solvent while you're at it. Don't forget to scrape!

[Zooberwerx]

Originally Posted by 202dy

You already knew the answer. Grab the solvent while you're at it. Don't forget to scrape!

Thanks for the vote of confidence...you have more faith in my abilities than I do! Actually, I'm not too clear as to what the proper procedure should be.

The FB is so dry that not only has it started to separate along the grain's "fault line" but the FB edges (both treble and bass sides) have started to recede, creating a distinct ridge where the wenge FB meets the maple neck.

Riis

[202dy]

Originally Posted by Zooberwerx

Thanks for the vote of confidence...you have more faith in my abilities than I do! Actually, I'm not too clear as to what the proper procedure should be.

The FB is so dry that not only has it started to separate along the grain's "fault line" but the FB edges (both treble and bass sides) have started to recede, creating a distinct ridge where the wenge FB meets the maple neck.

Riis

Confidence: No reason for that to be.

Procedure: If a crack can be opened, open it. If it can't, don't. Fingerboard cracks are usually in the "can't" category. Squirt or dribble so liquid thin CA from the bottle into the crack. Gravity will wick the glue into the crack. A small puddle may end up on the fingerboard if you use too much. That is o.k. That can be scraped off later with a razor blade.

It is interesting that the fingerboard is receding. That usually indicates that the fingerboard is no longer glued to the neck in that area. That should be investigated with feeler gauges before any other work is done. If the crack is stabilized beforehand, it will mask the larger problem.

[Zooberwerx]

Originally Posted by 202dy

It is interesting that the fingerboard is receding. That usually indicates that the fingerboard is no longer glued to the neck in that area. That should be investigated with feeler gauges before any other work is done. If the crack is stabilized beforehand, it will mask the larger problem.

I'll check it with my feelers but initial visual inspection showed no gaps. This smacks somewhat of the Kubicki multi-lam (37, I believe) necks. With time and varying drying / contraction rates amongst the laminates, the necks develop a pronounced tell-tale uneven washboard feel to them even though the glue joints remain intact. Phil Kubicki has even made a cottage industry of refurbing Ex Factor basses to address this issue.

Riis